jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Well last night I installed my manual boost controller and turned up the boost. Surprisingly the manual boost controller works slick, with the helper spring I get very stable boost. Might spool a little quicker if I sort out the links boost control. Need to dive into wiring and am too lazy

Anyway. 15psi is nice and refreshing! WOW the car hauls *** now. This was the first bit of datalogging I've done with the link so far.

Observations from datalog:

-Actual AFR was about 1 point richer than target, consistant in all zones. I think my tune is just really out to lunch, but the consistancy is odd for sure. I kind of suspect the amount of injector offset I'm running is to blame here. Or I've set something up incorrectly in the link.

-Inj% only hit ~60% @ 202-204kpa. Seems low, but could this be a result of running too rich and not making much power? If that makes sense.

-3 knock events above threshold. I'm running 4* timing accross the board from FM defaults. I consider this pretty good considering I'm running 91 octane gas, I did many 3rd and 4th gear pulls to redline. None of the knock I saw on the link was audible.

I'm going to start from scratch and load defaults and work on the tune more. Hope to get it on the dyno in a month or two,, really curious to see what kind of power it makes.

One final note. The Spec stage 2 (1.6) held 15psi with out issue. And I didn't baby it, nor did I abuse it.

How do I spell fun? B-O-O-S-T!

Jefe

iTrader: (7)

Hey,
Sounds pretty cool, I've been contemplating moving over to Link myself. With my MBC cranked all the way I'm lucky to hit 10psi.
I could run a EBC off the EMB, but then I'd loose my 5th Inj and not have enough fueling for 12-14psi land. So to add the Profec is ~500 (for EBC and keep the 5th), so I'd be better off just to pony up the extra for real standalone.

turbopezz

jayc72 got rid of his link boost controller because it wasent working.he went with a regular turn **** controller.


which im going to do any day,because my link bost controller doesnt work.

Jefe

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info.
Guess I'm still SOL then...

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

you are not fully optimized at 15 psi dont put the erdict on the stage 2 out yet still i am glad your car is running well.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

What?

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

sorry i meant Verdict missed the V there. As i said you are not optimized at 15 psi and making all the power you could yet so i would hold off on saying it holds you could have another 20-30 whp lurking somewhere.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Well it's holding a spike up to nearly 17psi and I beat the living **** out of it last night and it appears to be ok. Granted I'm probably leaving 20-50whp on the table. Tires break loose from a roll in second gear if I slowly bring up the revs and then go WOT. Boost goes right to 15psi and the tires break loose. No slip.

But yes the verdict isn't out on the clutch, however MY clutch in MY car isn't the big steaming pile of **** some people are making the SPEC out to be. Just another data point.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

re- ign maps - I advanced my ign to some weak knock and then backed off. According to DLL I never made the power I did on the dyno- even with a better tuned fuel map. So I'm back to the same ign map I ran on the dyno and will lean out that in the boosted rows (since that was improving power) and put fuel back in the NA rows (since I made the power by pulling master fuel) to regain the street tune.

What's up with the Link EBC? Mine actually has a bad component on the board. At least that's what my troubleshooting points to. It came down to running leads from the board at the connector to an led w/resistor and known good 12v+ and never got any light on the led. :(

Jefe

iTrader: (7)

Is there 12V on one side of the LED?
What size is the resistor? It could be either a pull up or for the LED itself, since the LINK has been out for awhile it's probably a 330-700 Ohm resistor.

If its under 1K then its probably for the LED, Link is pretty old school, but so are miata ecu's the boards look a lot like MS.
A simple test maybe to just touch the two leads of the old LED with a known good one (a 12V with out the built in resistor)

The diode probably just burned up and needs replacement, just remember to make note of which way the LED is mounted, since its a diode its directional---but you all ready knew that .