greddymx5

iTrader: (1)

Just go in straight... Use lots off grease on the drill to collect shavings.
Use tape on the drill so it will only go in 1/2 inch.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

When you're done drilling, take a q-tip bent in half, and fish around in the bottom of the pan directly beneath the hole for any shavings that sneak in there. Then slowly pour a pint of mineral spirits in the hole and let it drain out into a glass jar... should take all the shavings with it. Anything that gets left will get picked up in the screen or filter.

jbresee

It looks like you don't have PS or AC on that car! I'm jealous of all your space to work in.

I'm just a little bit ahead of you on installing my Begi-S. My pan is drilled, I'm prepping the Turbo now.

I'll let you know if I hit any interesting snags.

Jim

oilstain

HA HA gay jokes...

Laur3ns

I've got P/S but no A/C. The car is pretty high up on jack stands and that makes for alot of room compared to the car on wheels with splash guard in place.

I will be drilling later today

Laur3ns

Hi all,
Pan has been drillen, no problem. Thanks for everything.

Am I correctly assuming that the sandwich plate (that was between the old manifold and the head) doesn't go back on?

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

no, you reuse it or use a new one. Clean the carbon off it and the head a slap it in there.

Laur3ns

Ok, I got the sandwich plate cleaned and into position.

A couple of more questions have arrived:

1) Is this the best way to route the oil supply from the block to the distribution bracket that is on my cool air box?
(see first three pictures)

2) Are my oild and water fitting correctly aligned like this? If so, I can't seem to tighten the 90* elbow of the oil supply feed because the waste gate bracket is in the way.
(see last two pictures)

3) I'm having a *LOT* of trouble getting the EGR pipe on the manifold. And hint/tips on this?

Thanks again!

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

have fun with that egr tube, 2x4 is your friend. BTW what turbo did you get? I've got a gt2860rs and the distribution block did not work with it. hit the compressor inlet/airfilter pipe, and the stainless lines would have been rubbing like crazy on the compressor housing and severely stressed from the bending the would have to do near the distribution block. One would not bend enough to even get it on the distribution block. I think it's really designed for the smaller turbos. I chopped it in half and drilled new holes inwards closer to the cool air box and now it's all dandy.

Laur3ns

I've got a GT2554R FYI.

chucker

iTrader: (4)

Dude, spooky, are you Dutch? Are you in Holland? I can't wait to get back to A-town... that **** is fun fun.

Laur3ns

Yes, I'm in NL. What is A-town? Amsterdam? Arnhem?

Last night we test fitten the manifold (with EGR), turbo and 1st downpipe. Neither proved a real problem.

The EGR went on fine with the manifold still away from the engine. Then we moved the manifold into place en tightened all the nuts for a bit.

The turbo goes on nicely after that and all the piping has been sorted out (water in/out and oil in/out). We are using the distribution block on the cool air box, routing is working out now. The 1st downpipe slides on the turbo when the turbo is not on the manifold yet and then both pieces move into place.

I have removed the turbo+downpipe for now to tighten the manifold and move one of the heater pipes towards the firewall.

The cool air box doesn't fit at once and took a bit of hammering to clear the hood. Also the holes don't line up except for one, so we will be drilling some extra.

Questions
a) When I join the two down pipes, is it wise to use something like Holts Fire Gum to seal the pipes (two as I have a SG DP) or not?
b) Where the stainless steel lines touch anything, I should wrap something around them. Any examples with pictures?

Thanks. I will be fitting the manifold, turbo, downpipe this morning and then do the fueling later today. Hopefully have a drivable car by then end of today.

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

A. not necessary, they seal with heat expansion
B. No pics but fuel line cut lengthwise plus zip ties works. I don't know if your Begi-S has a SS braided drain hose or the coolant bypass, but if so the radiator hose supplied with the kit (which you should have extra of when done) will slip perfectly over the drain line.

Laur3ns

Ok, will not mess with Fire Gum when I don't have to
Fuel line is 5/16" right? I did get 5' that I may not use all. I'll see. I did not get any radiator hose (nor the coolant bypass) so I will work that out next week.

Thanks again!

Laur3ns

Morning all. Most of the bits are mounted: manifold, turbo, DP, cat.

Just need to tighten the long bolt that attaches the two pieces of downpipe togeteher. Any tips on that? Can't get a socket over the bolt...

Other than that, I'm having trouble with the compressor side. The outlet tubing is pretty obvious (angled like in my first pic won't let the hood shut). The inlet tubing is impossible to get in with the cool air box and all.

Any experience on this? I have the rubber elbow (90*) and metal inlet tube (120*) with breather outlet. I am thinking about cutting the elbow down to get the inlet tubing under the outlet tube.

Any hint, tips and pointers appreciated!

jbresee

I'm struggling with downpipe clearance on my begi-s install (see my post).

I don't have any answers for you, but from all of the other pictures I've seen, your charge tube angle is wrong. Other Begi S installs appear to have that almost level.

I can't tell from the pictures, but do you have the couplers completely seated? Is there any more room on those?

The only other thought is the charge pipe being made with too long an elbow. Which would suck.

I'll take a quick look at mine and let you know how it sits.
Jim

greddymx5

iTrader: (1)

I hope you guys don't have any problems if i answer in dutch...

De EGR pijp moet je loshalen bij de inlaat en onder de CAS sensor.(10mm)
De EGR pijp is dan helemaal los en kan je daarna vastmaken aan het spruitstuk. Hierna weer terug vastmaken aan de inlaat.

greddymx5

iTrader: (1)

Questions
a) When I join the two down pipes, is it wise to use something like Holts Fire Gum to seal the pipes (two as I have a SG DP) or not?
b) Where the stainless steel lines touch anything, I should wrap something around them. Any examples with pictures?

Je kan altijd wat cement er tussen doen. Alleen niet bij de turbo en spruitstuk.
De turbo is vlak genoeg om zonder pakking goed af te sluiten.(bijde kanten)

De gewapende slangen gaan overal doorheen, zelfs het metaal van je chassis.
Een stuk brandstofleiding ge-ti-wraped er om heen is genoeg.(snij deze open zodat je m er omheen kan vouwen)

jbresee

I went out and checked mine... the charge pipe looks almost level on my set up. My charge pipe is 1.5 inches from the elbow to the compressor output on the turbo.


Hope that helps.
Jim

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

rotate the intake so it almost inside the box, angled downward. You'll have to install the filter on the tube then lower the box in place as one big unit. This shoudl give you more room to push the charge pipes down...