dohcturbosi

iTrader: (1)

Just bought my FM2 turbo kit from a listing this weekend. Going to try install the kit some time next week or so after I pickup a new GT2560R. Can someone post their setting the Link for 99 1.8 Sea Level if they still have it?

Any tips on the install would be appreciated, the universal instruction provided by Begi is not all that great.

Thanks in advance!



Bought it from trackhoar - https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-parts-sale-trade-5/fs-new-99-00-diypnp-msii-koni-suspension-01-lights-59997/

"4. 99-00 Flying Miata FMII Link Turbo Kit-CARB Legal (for the 99) -Very rare, originally built by BEGi for FM. This is the only carb legal NB turbo kit made/sold. Includes manifold, good shape GT2650R (not original FM turbo), flange adapters to work with FM piping, DP with pre-cat (essential for the CARB legal part), FM Intercooler, all intercooler piping/couplers, intake reroute, heat shields, oil supply, water lines, NEW FM BOV, New Boost Gauge, New gaskets, etc. In addition to the turbo hardware, this kit also includes the modified intake manifold with 4 extra injectors ports, 4 injectors, dual feed fuel rail, 02 Modifier, Boost control solenoid, LINK Piggy Back ECU and Keypad Tuner. The turbo still needs to be properly clocked as well and the CARB EO plate will be sent to you by BEGi once you send pictures of it installed on your car"


I checked the manifold (compared the marks on the intercooler pipe and they match up with codrus listing) and it look like this kit used to belong to user codrus who listed it last year - https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-parts-sale-trade-5/99-fm2-kit-2-cat-california-cars-%241750-48801/

It make 218 rwhp/212 torque..

henksmiata

Just sold and installed my old kit in another car, here at sea level, made 235 hp with the default settings, have a look here, save it before FM takes it off their site.

http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/in..._piggyback.pdf

With a little spark changes that car it is making 240 at the crank now, good luck

dohcturbosi

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tip. How many psi boost were you running do get that power? was it using the standard turbo? Do you remember how long it took to do the whole install? I'm trying to plan everything out so I won't get stuck with a car in the garage forever.

henksmiata

I have set it to the max psi the nb can take which is 9psi, started off with 6 just mech boost, this was with a gt2554.

How long does it take, depends on quite some things, skills, knowing the guts of a miata, tools and do you have everything needed for the kit to fit at hand.
Gutting the car takes an afternoon, exhaust, air intake, putting it on stands, etc. Installing the new intake mani took me a day the damn nuts are hard to reach, also drilled the oil return then. Turbo, exhaust mani and down pipe, bit more then half a day.
Removing under trays and cut them to fit all IC piping, installing IC air intake side, water and oil lines, boost lines a day. Wiring in the piggy is pretty easy, the harness was installed when you do the intake mani. wiring the boost gauge, O2 modifier etc. With opening up the dash, taking the seats out for workspace. If you want to do a tidy job I would say a day.

If you have everything at hand make long days and you know your way around a miata an lextended weekend could do it. I wasn't in a hurry, since it was a winter project and we overhauled the entire car and the kit was part of that 4 month project.

codrus

That is indeed the kit I sold last year. Looks like the guy I sold it to never got around to installing it. There's a installation manual in the picture -- did you get that?

The 2560 pictured in the ad won't work without some modification, because it still has the bolt-on flanges. When FM and BEGI sell 2560s, those flanges have been machined off and they use hose clamps with silicone couplers instead.

Lots of writeups out there about drilling the pan. You'll want an aftermarket exhaust -- the stock midpipe & muffler will cost you a thousand RPM of spool easily. Also, the FM downpipe doesn't mate well to the factory midpipe (FM uses a flat flange with a flat gasket, OEM uses a nested pipe with a donut gasket).

The exhaust manifold is drilled/tapped on the top for EGT senders, make sure you put something in those holes before you install it. Similarly, the throttle body inlet pipe is drilled/tapped for an intake temp sensor (not useful with the Link piggyback), so you'll need to plug that.

The intake manifold installation is kind of a pain because it's hard to get access to the nuts on the bottom while the engine is installed in the car. You'll also want a good assortment of 14mm socket, wrenches, u-joints, and crow's feet for the exhaust manifold. BEGI manifolds (especially ones of that vintage) are not known for being easy to install.

The computer probably still has my program in it, note that it was tuned for 91 octane at 7 psi and race gas at 12 psi. I recommend reverting it to the built-in default programming before you run the car. Dyno tuning is highly recommended, there's no wideband or autotune capability in the Link piggy, so street tuning is difficult.

--Ian

dohcturbosi

iTrader: (1)

Thank Henk & Ian for all the tip. From everything I've read and saw in the engine bay/manual it look like a PITA to install the kit. I'm putting all the parts together and getting all the missing pieces to get the install done right the first time. It look like I might need to get aftermarket exhaust and clutch done at the same time of the install. My brother is going to do the install for me. He can get his LS1 3rd Gen RX7 running right or his Eagle Talons running 10s from a garage build. I think he should be able to get the Miata kit running right.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Its simple, read through all the install guides you can find, memorize them and install it. Thats what i did and i never looked at the guide once during the install.

dohcturbosi

iTrader: (1)

Haven't got the turbo yet to do the install, but I'm currently looking at a for a good used gt2560r or the same one/model that came with the kit originally. The gt2560r came with the kit that was purchased, suspected that it was shot, now confirmed that is shot (metal pieces are coming out of the oil drain when poured oil in there to lube, not spinning freely, shaft play.) I believe that I have all the necessary adapters to use the gt2560r but if I can get the same one from the original kit it would be better (less headaches w/ adapters).

Henk,
The gt2554 that you have, is that the one that came with the kit from the original or was it something that you purchased separately?

Ian,
If you can answer that it would be great, I couldn't tell from your original post what the turbo for the fm2 carb kit was.

Thanks again.

codrus

My kit originally came with a GT2560 (a "large ball bearing", as FM called it at the time). It was also available with a 2554 ("small ball bearing") or a sleeve-bearing turbo. Due to the compressor orientation and location used (it points down and the outlet is right next to the "shelf"), I doubt there's enough room to fit the bolt-on adapter flange in there.

The compressor inlet could probably be made to work, but you'd have to do surgery to shorten the U-shaped inlet pipe.

Not a great pic of the compressor outlet, but:



--Ian

JasonC SBB

I'm upgrading my GT2560 to a GT2860 (my motor is built).
However I'm still waiting for a seller I found to send me his, and then I have ACL surgery next week. Won't be able to remove my '2560 for a couple of weeks.

If you're willing to wait.........

dohcturbosi

iTrader: (1)

Ian,
Thanks for the info. At least I'll have alternative to what to get.


Jason,
Since the car will be garaged for a bit to get all the work done and I'm still putting all the missing parts together before doing the install (TURBO, clutch and radiator). Don't want to start and end up missing parts. Is the turbo the sleeve or ball bearing one? I think I can wait for a couple of weeks. Just shoot me a email at clistingacct AT gmail.com.

Thanks!

henksmiata

As Ian wrote FM had 2 choices the small and large ball bearing, they were getting rid of the sleeve bearing ones. Since the stock Nb engines are good up to 9psi the choice was the 2560 or the 2554. The 2560 with a larger flow thus higher end power potential if one was intending to build their engine to raise the psi's , sacrificing a tiny little bit on spool up,. This compared to the 2554 of course. I opted for the 2554, super fast spool and 240 hp sounded right. Then the power bug bit and I started to build the engine with the 2554, which ran out of breath at 12 something psi, then switched to the 2560. Not sure if that was a good choice, still love the great spool on a build engine. But knowing the potential of the engine is closer to 400 and may be even higher, makes me wonder. The 2560 is only one year old, so I will run for a while with it. I do have some more pictures of the 2554 from the time I sold it as well as post install on the car, that I can mail you. Just let me know.

dohcturbosi

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Henk for the picture. The GT2554 doesn't need a flange to adapter to the intake pipe right? I think the GT2554 might be more than adequate for me. If you can send me additional picture post install to clistingacct AT gmail.com that would be great.


@ Jason
Do you have an idea of how much you want to sell the GT2560 for shipped to CA 95120? Is it ball bearing or sleeve and the condition of it. About how many miles do you have on it already?

I've found a rebuilt GT2554R decent price and is working to see if I can budget that in vs buying a used GT2560.

Please shoot me an email.
Thanks all again for all the help!

henksmiata

I'll mail you some more pictures later. The air in- and outlet connect with silicone hose couplers and clamps. You'll find them easy like from siliconeintakes.com or others.

codrus

I think both the GT2554 and GT2560 come from Garrett with flanges on the compressor outlet. For example, there's a picture of a 2554 on this page:

http://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygar...R_471171_3.htm

For comparison, here's the 2560 that came with my kit:



I have a bunch more pics of the kit on my car, I'll try to post them.

--Ian

codrus

FWIW, I ran 12 psi on my stock NB engine for 50K miles, rods were straight as an arrow when I took 'em out to build the engine (worn rings on #4). I ran at least 94 octane for those miles, though.

--Ian

dohcturbosi

iTrader: (1)

Look like the 2560 is the one to get in case I get bit by the power bug sometime in the future.. Will be hard to run 12psi with the 91gas that we get in CA. But since it is same year/setup at as your then it might be doable. The Eagle Talon in the you tube video is running on 35psi with a GT3788R (made for a 5.9L V8 Diesel). If I really need to have some fun I can borrow that car.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

1. Run E85
2. Get more power
3. Pay less at the pump
4. Get bitches
5. ?????
6. Profit

henksmiata

That sounds like a plan. I have to admit that I keep using 9psi as to what the Nb stock engine is able to handle. That is the same number that FM is using, which of course has a safety margin. With a good tune and consistently good gas, 12psi should not pose an issue, no guarantees from my side however.

I had my old set up running at for 12psi with a max boost of 15psi when spooling up and then settling at 12. Was a blast to drive. Then I did hit one tank of bad gas, the pump was out of the good stuff when I was out in the boonies. Didn't fill it up so I could make it home. The next day, on the way to the gas station, while driving slowly, I warped a rod.

So the moral, 9psi with an average tune the engine will survive, at 12psi, something small and silly goes wrong, you en up with a build engine and ready for real power.
I have never regretted that warped rod, normally I would not have spend the money to build an engine now I had no choice.

dohcturbosi

iTrader: (1)

My brother HIGHLY recommends running E85 as the station is about 1mile from my house. He is currently running that on the his car and has a lot of experience tuning DIY, Link, and other ECU. I might go that route eventually.

Agree w/ Henk. From what I heard I have no doubt that stock block engine can run 12+ psi under the right conditions, the only problem that it is pushing the boundary of safety and at some point something will not be right and then BOOM..