asianalpha

has anyone ever completly remove the studs on the greddy manifold and instead of getting replacement studs

just used BOLTS instead. something like arp.

im thinking of going this route cause i keep on breaking those dam studs

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Where did you get your manifold?

I ask because the stock Greddy manifold, at least as they're shipping presently, do not use studs. There are four threaded holes on the mating surface for the turbo inlet, and four exceedingly low-quality bolts to go in them.

One major improvement that can be made to any Greddy kit is to throw away all of the hardware that came with it, and purchase some good quality class 10.9 fasteners (roughly equivilant to SAE grade 8). In addition to tensile strength and nominal yield stress, these fasteners tend to be superior in regards to corrosion resistance.

On my setup, I purchased class 10.9 bolts from Pep Boys, but I forgot to get quality lock washers so I used the ones that came with the kit. After a few months of use, the lock washers are severely rusted but the bolts look almost new, with just a fine white patina.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

I had mine drilled and tapped to accept 3/8" exhaust studs. I've also got those trick washers that FM sells (interestingly enough Norlock will send you a bunch if you ask for a sample), but those won't go on until the spring.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, those FM washers are very cool. I should clarify that I used those on the bolts between the turbo and the manifold, but I didn't buy enough to do the downpipe to turbo bolts, so I re-used the crappy split washers on that connection, albeit with new bolts.