farpolemiddle

Well after a ton of reading I thing I have my plan worked out. Thought I would post it for critique. I will document the build when it starts.

Car is a bone stock 94 with 145,000 miles. Factory hard top, torsen. No a/c, power steering, cruise control, or ABS from the factory. My initial plan was to try and keep it low hp and build a second engine but everything I read says the stock rods won't last. So in an attempt to do it somewhat right I am going to collect all the parts and pull the engine for a rods and refresh build so I do not waste a perfectly good block and time. Then I can also do the oil pan return right and the clutch at the same time. I will have to cut a few corners due to budget. This is a street car and I currently do not have plans to track it. HP 275ish?

Current parts paid for:
Trackspeed EFR kit on order
Reverant MS on order
Force flow injectors
EBay intercooler(cut corner on this). This one and it looks pretty good. 27 25"x6 75"X2 5" Aluminum Chrome Fmic Bar Plate Front Mount Turbo Intercooler | eBay
AEM wideband
GM IAT


Still need to buy:
Clutch (leaning towards FM 2)
Intercooler pipping, clamps, silicone couplers
Rods, rings, bearings, gasket kit
3" exhuast
AEM boost gauge
​6 speed

Things I am considering buying:
Ignition (LS Coils?)
Better oil pump
Pistons
Damper
Oil cooler
fuel pump


Spent so far
$2,700 for the car
$1,000 on RPF1 and tires
$4,700 ish on current paid for parts.

$8,400 so far and I probably will need another $4,000-6,000 to finish the engine and buy the remaining parts.

Then there is suspension, brakes, roll bar (maybe), steering wheel and seats $5,000-7,000?

I honestly think a V8 or K swap might have made more sense. Especially since I could probably have sold my 94 1.8 engine off pretty easily. Or buy a used S2000/ Vette

What do you guys think of my plan? Additional things I am over looking? I love the little thing but man is this costing a lot more than I expected.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

You don't want to install an EFR kit, and then cram it through stock exhaust. That's like bringing a super hot chick home who is willing to ****, then you just put the tip in, pull out and call it good.

DNA54

I make a lot of mistakes during this year, I just wanna be sure that you don't do the same things
-the BP-05 head has HLA, whitch collapse after around 4500-5000 rpm, reducing your valve lift drastically. Swapping the BP-4W cams and solid lifters on the NA head gave me 7.5% more power everywhere past 4500 https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...3/#post1318763
-The IC you linked was the same I had for the past 3 years, when I went allofit it caused a huge pressure drop, the maximum power I made on a dyno was 330, nothing more and with unhappy iat's. Swapped for a 450hp chinese core and gained a lot of room https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...7/#post1340802 ddd
-Regard turbo choice, my advice is to go 6758 if you want 275hp. The 6258 is capable to get even 300hp, but everything after 250 is really pushing to the limit, but with the 6758 you only need the medium boost actuator (standard one) and some ebc (wastegate only gave me 230hp).
-ARP everything, in the future you will want moar. It's written in the bible. Don't follow the ARP specs for head torque but less, some people cracked the head.
-Chinese rods like CXracing are more than enough, and they weigh less than stock rods

I think everything else is fine, make a build thread when you begin

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Nice DNA, great post. I don't agree with the turbo size, I think the 6258 is fine. That's just me though. Good information.

farpolemiddle

I hear you but I have to draw the money line somewhere. It may not be the exhaust where that happens though.

farpolemiddle

I really am going to stay in the 275ish world. Every thread I read here where peeps go over 350whp turns into transmission destruction, replace and repeat.

astral

I honestly think you should listen to that advice. Spending the extra money on a trackspeed kit with a damn borgworner and a MS AND a built engine and then using a stock exhaust is just absurd.

Enthuzacar has an alumnized 3" exhaust for $400 bucks from the cat back. If you can afford a high end turbo kit and a built engine, you can afford an exhaust. If not, maybe you should do a DIY kit to afford it.

And IMO, with 275whp on tap you will likely want more rubber.

Take a look at 949 Racing's clutch as well, definitely consider it.

dleavitt

iTrader: (1)

Personally I'd lower the power goal a bit to 220-250, skip the built motor and 6-speed, and use the money saved on good suspension/wheels/tires and some of the other things on your list. For sure a 3" exhaust.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

For your power goal, I'd stick with the 6258. Having had both the 6x58 turbos, it's snappy enough. It'll be fast. It'll be fun. You will still break transmissions if you get stickier tires and have no mechanical empathy.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Flow force injectors will be stretched at 43.5psi and 275hp. Especially on e85. Go ID1000's.

NBoost

Where to draw the money line is the decision to make, I don't believe it is properly drawn at keeping the stock exhaust. I know you already have a Trackspeed kit with EFR on order, and I don't know how "un-doable" that is, but consider this thought process:

Your goal of 275 WHP can be done with a lot of turbo and manifold combos. Trackspeed is an insanely awesome company, offering possibly the best solution to a properly turbocharged Miata. And in no way shape or form do I think their product is flawed, its got the R&D to succeed and I believe it will do nothing but satisfy hundreds of customers. However, those customers pay a premium for it. You already mentioned a budget, and that directly contradicts paying a premium for the best solution to get to 275 WHP. I think where you would save the most money is looking into other options for turbo/manifold combos that will get you to that HP number. T3 framed, journal bearing options, and maybe having someone build you a tubular log out of mild steel (it is not as expensive as you would think).

The lack of a full 3" exhaust will limit you, regardless of your hot side part choice. If you want the exhaust to cost less, use less mufflers and resonators, if you can handle a little drone.

EDIT: Also, look into Competition Clutch and their options for your TQ levels. They will hold up just as well as FM, and that is a hint

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I'm switching from a stage 4 Comp Clutch to an FM2. CC will hold if it doesn't destroy itself first, but drivability wasn't good for a daily.

NBoost

Pucks are terrible for drive-ability, regardless of who makes them. CC's Stage 3 version is still a full disk (though Ceramic), it will drive better than a puck, but not as smooth as an organic disk. Rated up to 300 ft. lbs. though (assuming 120 baseline TQ, and 150% increase as stated from CC).

huesmann

iTrader: (1)

Used C5 is the "easy" button...

dleavitt

iTrader: (1)

If you go this route I might buy the turbo kit and injectors.

farpolemiddle

I am on a budget to a certain point. I agree with you that I could have made the same power on a cheaper set up but I feel the Manifold, Turbo, and Down pipe on the trackspeed kit are worth the money. They are the future and I hoping the money spent up front will pay off in the long run. Plus it has integrated ebc and bypass built in. I am after the spool and maybe a 2554 might have got the job done but I know the EFR 6258 will. You have all talked me into a 3" exhaust so that will happen. As far as a clutch I will read up but i am looking for something somewhat street friendly. Edit. Still leaning towards the FM2 clutch for the street.

farpolemiddle

I am considering the 1000s but I have honestly given up on E85 as much as I want it. I am not going to build around only one location that sells it local with semi shitty hours. I am confident 275 is doable with the flow force.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Wow, where do I begin??

To all saying he spent too much on the TSE kit: I talked with him at length regarding his budget and goals, and the TSE kit just made sense. It's literally $100 more than the FM no electronics kit, and all you're giving up is the intercooler setup, which can be done with super legit parts for well under $500. You absolutely cannot beat the TSE kit for the money.

Regarding the V8 or K-swap stuff... That would make more sense if you wanted to spend WAY more time and money for more power (V8 swap) or still more time and money for less power (K swap). For a street car 300 whp or less, you can't beat boosting the BP. All the suspension, brakes, roll bar, seats, etc would be needed no matter which option you go with.

Also, regarding all the other bits: You don't really need bigger brakes for your street car. Some better pads is all you'd need, maybe ducting if you still have issues. Roll bar is definitely a good idea for any aggressively-driven Miata.

Valid point about buying a different car. Have you driven an S2000? Why not come drive mine and go for a ride in the turbo Miata back to back, see which one fits you better?

If the S2000 fits you better... it's for sale...

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Always a car salesman

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Maybe with a lot of fuel pressure. Stock pressure is questionable. I was at 75% DC at 220hp on stock fuel pressure. And you really shouldn't run injectors above 85%.

So either spend a bunch of money cranking fuel pressure, or spend a bit more on ID1000s.