curly

iTrader: (25)

interested in those answers as well Savington!

Looks like we'll have to do a fair amount of clocking of both the crha and the compressor housing. Because of this I was considering completely disassebling the turbo, and having a little more access to bolt up the turbine.

Is it possible to bolt on the manifold and turbo as one?

And secondly can the downpipe be snaked up from below?

Are you using a gasket?

Lokiel

Post #139?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Are you referring to the nuts or the tabs?

Can you snap photos and email them to me?

I don't see the logic in disassembling the turbo. It's easy to access the four CHRA/turbine bolts with everything bolted up. Mani+turbo will go on as an assembled unit. DP goes in from the bottom. No gasket between manifold and turbo.

I do have at least one turbine housing here that interferes with the length of the lower rear stud, so if you encounter that, let me know.

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

I actually just put this back together and noticed it doesn't interfere if you mount the turbo "hanging" as it would be on the car vs assembling it how you would on a kitchen table. I snapped some pictures anyway and sent them off to info@trackspeedengineering.com.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Cool, thanks. I know the clearances are tight between the flange nut and the housing, but I've yet to see a housing that won't bolt up.

In general, if you see issues, I want pictures. I tried to put my hands on as many different combos as possible during development but you guys will inevitably gather a larger sample then I'm able to. I want to hear about the issues you encounter.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Sav/Lokiel:

Yes same as mentioned; I had issues seating two of the three tabs flat enough to get the retaining clips over them as the edges of the teardrops contacted the housing. Maybe a millimeter or so? For how big the EFR is compared to the Garrett its pretty tight on that flange lol. The nuts will sit fully flush, I just had to wiggle the turbo with them finger loose around for them to all shimmy on and seat. The rear bottom had ~1mm between the stud and the wastegate channel area.

julio

iTrader: (4)

OK guys, did some testing on one of my Inconel studs and I can report that it held up great to one cold cycle in my washing machine!! LOL while typing this. I need to get some sleep........

Savington

iTrader: (31)

1-2mm is all that should be expected. The housing is very tight back there.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Just mocked up Richard's along with an AC bracket, compressor, and driver side motor mount to figure out where I want to drill for the oil drain. Thought maybe these pictures would help some people.





I need to take a picture from a lower vantage point on the side.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

My manifold came in Friday, I got it Saturday when I got home.
From the top it looks pretty good.


The turbo flange has some marks from machining, but is still smooth.


The flange that goes to the head has machining swirls and you can definitely feel them all. I don't think they would matter since you have the gasket that will go there. I am going to throw mine on the belt sander a bit to try to remove them all.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I did notice some of the edge on the turbine side had a little lip on some of the circumference, nothing a quick hit with a file wont fix. I'll also cleanup the EGR as there's a little machining burr from probably threading the opening but otherwise I just want to put it on my desk at work until it's ready to install

soospecmx5

When are the intercooler and pipings going to be worked on?

Do you have an ETA when you will be selling full kits?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Took a few more pictures of this kit on the Mobius engine, while I try to find the "perfect" oil drain location.



The drain is located directly above the mixing manifold's lower radiator hose outlet. Goal is for it to be AC and PS compatible, and in no way in-car-drillable.

Here's where I plan on drilling and having a bung welded. I'd love to hear from Savington about PS compatibility, but I'm also going to get the Mobius-mobile returned to me from storage so I can see for myself. To make it easier (if this works), the location is 1 inch from the oil pan lip, and 1 inch from the vertical lip.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

That should work, but look at it in a car before you jump with both feet. There are power steering lines just behind that location, and the rack itself is also pretty close to that.

Our standard oil line kit will put the drain under the A/C compressor, and that location has worked perfectly for all applications so far.

IC and piping is in active development. Production sample IC getting built next week, in fact. Full kits will be available as soon as we are able to make them available.

codrus

Make sure to compare it against the subframe. There's a sweet spot right in front of the motor mount, but if you go too far forwards then there isn't room for the fitting because the subframe is angling inwards. I have mine a bit further back and it works well:



(the blue fitting, ignore the brass plug at the front)

--Ian

IcantDo55

iTrader: (11)

Anyone try and mate this to the MSM factory drainback in the pan?

gesso

iTrader: (1)

I'm doing that* and it seems fine. I'll take a picture when I get it in.

*Garrett turbo not EFR, so it might be a tiny bit differnt location at the the oil drain source.

IcantDo55

iTrader: (11)

Looking forward to the pics.

Thanks

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Comparing your photo and Curly's photo, your location would foul the 01-05 motor mount plates.

codrus

Yeah, I just noticed that, but a compromise between the two ought to work. I looked at mine last night and having it as far forward as Curly shows definitely looks like it would be interfering with the power steering lines.

Not a great angle, but the best I could do:



--Ian