Accusump, discuss it here.
#41
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Ahhh OK yes I forgot about the thermostat being integrated into the sandwich plate.
I found this while googling. FWIW this is a nice Accusump install in an LS1 Miata.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/road-r...tall-pics.html
EDIT: Another thought, assuming this is a 90%+ track car... If you can, what if you just take the oil thermostat out completely? For a track car you should be able to get the oil up to temperature pretty quickly (to prevent sludge). I am about to take out my Mocal remote thermostat in fact. If it is a cold day and the oil does not heat up I can always partially block off the oil cooler with something.
I found this while googling. FWIW this is a nice Accusump install in an LS1 Miata.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/road-r...tall-pics.html
EDIT: Another thought, assuming this is a 90%+ track car... If you can, what if you just take the oil thermostat out completely? For a track car you should be able to get the oil up to temperature pretty quickly (to prevent sludge). I am about to take out my Mocal remote thermostat in fact. If it is a cold day and the oil does not heat up I can always partially block off the oil cooler with something.
Last edited by ZX-Tex; 10-28-2010 at 02:35 PM.
#42
Bob,
The thermostat/sandwich plate should still flow a bit to the filter, even when the oil is cold. That said, it probably doesn't flow much. I don't know for sure. You might want to call BAT (importer of Mocal in the US). They have been very informative when I've spoken with them in the past. You can also order direct from them.
Stacking the sandwich plates sounds like a good idea. Actually, I'm running a similar setup now. I have a sensor adapter/sandwich plate right on the block, and then a Mocal sandwich plate on top of it. The Mocal sandwich plate I have is not thermostatically controlled - I use a remote Mocal thermostat that sits in-line between the sandwich plate and cooler.
My sensor adapter/filter sandwich plate is from Moss Motors. It came with 3 sensor ports on it. A 4th port was recently tapped into it. The port is -8AN, and I use it to feed my external oil pressure relief valve. Works great!
An all-in-one sandwich plate solution might be available from Maruha Motors. They have a new oil cooler kit. Their custom sandwich plate has 2 -10AN ports for oil feed/return lines, and two extra plugs which are intended for sensor use (1/8 NPT). From the pictures, it seems that all 4 ports are large, and that there are 2 -10AN adapters and 2 1/8 NPT adapters. If that is the case, I would think that the 1/8 NPT port(s) could be converted to -10AN. Just a thought.
Here's the Maruha sandwich plate:
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/parts/heatexchanger.htm
If you'd like, I can ask Saiji @ Maruha if the ports are configurable, and if he would sell the sandwich plates w/o the entire kit, and the price.
Cheers,
Will
The thermostat/sandwich plate should still flow a bit to the filter, even when the oil is cold. That said, it probably doesn't flow much. I don't know for sure. You might want to call BAT (importer of Mocal in the US). They have been very informative when I've spoken with them in the past. You can also order direct from them.
Stacking the sandwich plates sounds like a good idea. Actually, I'm running a similar setup now. I have a sensor adapter/sandwich plate right on the block, and then a Mocal sandwich plate on top of it. The Mocal sandwich plate I have is not thermostatically controlled - I use a remote Mocal thermostat that sits in-line between the sandwich plate and cooler.
My sensor adapter/filter sandwich plate is from Moss Motors. It came with 3 sensor ports on it. A 4th port was recently tapped into it. The port is -8AN, and I use it to feed my external oil pressure relief valve. Works great!
An all-in-one sandwich plate solution might be available from Maruha Motors. They have a new oil cooler kit. Their custom sandwich plate has 2 -10AN ports for oil feed/return lines, and two extra plugs which are intended for sensor use (1/8 NPT). From the pictures, it seems that all 4 ports are large, and that there are 2 -10AN adapters and 2 1/8 NPT adapters. If that is the case, I would think that the 1/8 NPT port(s) could be converted to -10AN. Just a thought.
Here's the Maruha sandwich plate:
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/parts/heatexchanger.htm
If you'd like, I can ask Saiji @ Maruha if the ports are configurable, and if he would sell the sandwich plates w/o the entire kit, and the price.
Cheers,
Will
#43
Bob,
The thermostat/sandwich plate should still flow a bit to the filter, even when the oil is cold. That said, it probably doesn't flow much. I don't know for sure. You might want to call BAT (importer of Mocal in the US). They have been very informative when I've spoken with them in the past. You can also order direct from them.
Stacking the sandwich plates sounds like a good idea. Actually, I'm running a similar setup now. I have a sensor adapter/sandwich plate right on the block, and then a Mocal sandwich plate on top of it. The Mocal sandwich plate I have is not thermostatically controlled - I use a remote Mocal thermostat that sits in-line between the sandwich plate and cooler.
My sensor adapter/filter sandwich plate is from Moss Motors. It came with 3 sensor ports on it. A 4th port was recently tapped into it. The port is -8AN, and I use it to feed my external oil pressure relief valve. Works great!
An all-in-one sandwich plate solution might be available from Maruha Motors. They have a new oil cooler kit. Their custom sandwich plate has 2 -10AN ports for oil feed/return lines, and two extra plugs which are intended for sensor use (1/8 NPT). From the pictures, it seems that all 4 ports are large, and that there are 2 -10AN adapters and 2 1/8 NPT adapters. If that is the case, I would think that the 1/8 NPT port(s) could be converted to -10AN. Just a thought.
Here's the Maruha sandwich plate:
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/parts/heatexchanger.htm
If you'd like, I can ask Saiji @ Maruha if the ports are configurable, and if he would sell the sandwich plates w/o the entire kit, and the price.
Cheers,
Will
The thermostat/sandwich plate should still flow a bit to the filter, even when the oil is cold. That said, it probably doesn't flow much. I don't know for sure. You might want to call BAT (importer of Mocal in the US). They have been very informative when I've spoken with them in the past. You can also order direct from them.
Stacking the sandwich plates sounds like a good idea. Actually, I'm running a similar setup now. I have a sensor adapter/sandwich plate right on the block, and then a Mocal sandwich plate on top of it. The Mocal sandwich plate I have is not thermostatically controlled - I use a remote Mocal thermostat that sits in-line between the sandwich plate and cooler.
My sensor adapter/filter sandwich plate is from Moss Motors. It came with 3 sensor ports on it. A 4th port was recently tapped into it. The port is -8AN, and I use it to feed my external oil pressure relief valve. Works great!
An all-in-one sandwich plate solution might be available from Maruha Motors. They have a new oil cooler kit. Their custom sandwich plate has 2 -10AN ports for oil feed/return lines, and two extra plugs which are intended for sensor use (1/8 NPT). From the pictures, it seems that all 4 ports are large, and that there are 2 -10AN adapters and 2 1/8 NPT adapters. If that is the case, I would think that the 1/8 NPT port(s) could be converted to -10AN. Just a thought.
Here's the Maruha sandwich plate:
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/parts/heatexchanger.htm
If you'd like, I can ask Saiji @ Maruha if the ports are configurable, and if he would sell the sandwich plates w/o the entire kit, and the price.
Cheers,
Will
If I decide later that having the check valve is really necessary I will probably get a Canton adapter plate to replace the mocal sandwich thermostat and ad a remote filter mount and remote thermostat into the system to do it. I don't really like that solution because of the number of added fittings and bulky oil lines that need to be added to do it just becomes a mess is all and not to mention adds a large amount of cost. I just don't see a better way to include the check valve in the system however.
I’m using all -10 AN lines.
Bob
#45
Also don't forget this if choosing the big unit:
One thing to be aware of is the fact that oil pressure at idle - with the engine up to temperature - will be relatively low (usually around 20 psi), and as a result, the Accusump system will partially discharge at low engine rpm. Therefore it's important to make sure the Accusump capacity you chose won't bring the oil level above the crankshaft, which can cause aeration of the engine oil (though most engines can run 1-liter overfilled without issue).
#47
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Bob, not to be a dick or anything. but with it that far back, why not mount it in the trunk? I'm guessing you have something else in there, or you are keeping the weight down low and/or centralized.
BTW I like that home made brace. I need to do the same thing with mine.
BTW I like that home made brace. I need to do the same thing with mine.
#48
2) The weight is low and towards the light corner of the car.
3) it is a very stelthy location. You would have to look for it and it actually seemed less dificult than other places no hoses trough pannels or anything.
4) I regularly drive my car long distances with my Wife. I need to keep all the trunk space I can.
5) It is easyly removable, I am thinking of doing some autocrossing at national level, which means for a couple weekends I will convert the car to autocross mode and make it as legal as possible. That means removing a bunch of bracing, the roll bar, etc for a just for national autocross weekends.
Bob
#49
5) It is easyly removable, I am thinking of doing some autocrossing at national level, which means for a couple weekends I will convert the car to autocross mode and make it as legal as possible. That means removing a bunch of bracing, the roll bar, etc for a just for national autocross weekends.
Bob
Bob
#50
I’m not willing to make my car an autocross only car though. I drive it on the street and do lots of track days. It meets the spirit of the rules for a SSM car, not so much an XP car.
The good thing is taking off all the track stuff and stuff that makes it nicer to drive will take a good bit of weight out. I think it will get down to the minimum weight. It might actually be faster in full autocross trim.
Bob
#56
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Me brain usaubg and i think for
Starting:
As soon as tgeb motor crabks there is oil pressure. So sterting wear is bullshi
Thrns:
Theres still oil flying around everywhere. Its not the oil pressure, its the presence of oil.
So accusunl poip.
Starting:
As soon as tgeb motor crabks there is oil pressure. So sterting wear is bullshi
Thrns:
Theres still oil flying around everywhere. Its not the oil pressure, its the presence of oil.
So accusunl poip.
#57
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My brain ??usaubg?? and i think for
Starting:
As soon as the motor cranks there is oil pressure. So starting wear is a falsity.
Thus:
There's still oil flying around everywhere. Its not the oil pressure, its the presence of oil.
So accusump ??poip??.
Starting:
As soon as the motor cranks there is oil pressure. So starting wear is a falsity.
Thus:
There's still oil flying around everywhere. Its not the oil pressure, its the presence of oil.
So accusump ??poip??.
Although there is oil pressure soon after starting the engine, it's not immediate, and that's the wear people are worried about. If you've ever been in a NA with lifter noise, you'll notice after start up it'll take a few seconds for the oil to get from the pan, picked up by the pump, through the block, through the head, and into the lifters.
#58
Although there is oil pressure soon after starting the engine, it's not immediate, and that's the wear people are worried about. If you've ever been in a NA with lifter noise, you'll notice after start up it'll take a few seconds for the oil to get from the pan, picked up by the pump, through the block, through the head, and into the lifters.
#59
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Trunk mounted 3-qt accusump with a line running to the front via the transmission tunnel. I shielded the line with conduit for extra protection. Works great. Caveat, this is with an LS1, not a Miata engine, but it is in a Miata.
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