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Race Prep Miata race-only chat. 949 Racing - Rim & tires

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Old 06-06-2016, 05:47 PM   #841
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There can never be too many pictures of that TCD/949/Kopitski car. It's a piece of art for the Miata world.
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Old 06-06-2016, 06:52 PM   #842
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I have to say, I'm actually thinking about buying it just for west coast champs at Buttonwillow then selling. Short a crash or mechanical, it would be two easy wins and lap records.
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:38 PM   #843
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I have to say, I'm actually thinking about buying it just for west coast champs at Buttonwillow then selling. Short a crash or mechanical, it would be two easy wins and lap records.
I support this, for competition factors.
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:00 PM   #844
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Default ECU recommendation?

Since I don't have money for the Kopitski car.....

What ECU is recommended: MSPNP2, 3, or something else altogether?
- 99 NB Miata.
- Dual purpose street/track build so not bleeding edge.
- Engine plan is to make moderate power with bolt-on modifications vs cracking engine. Currently have intake, square top intake manifold, header, exhaust. If engine goes - I'll replace with another 99-00 unit, so no plans for VVT.

Based on that, is the $840 MSPNP2 enough? Or is there something else I should be looking at?

(Like, did anyone figure out a zero point ECU reflash yet....)

Thx!
- Markus
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:20 PM   #845
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NB1 MS2
NB2 (VVT) MS3
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Old 06-15-2016, 12:39 AM   #846
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Or, you know, you could import one of those ME221 ECUs from the UK.
*chuckles*

No. Not really. Stay far away from those clowns.
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Old 06-15-2016, 03:33 PM   #847
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My next event is at Gingerman Raceway. Its a low top speed track, good for miatas.
5 in PTE
3 in TTE. If they offer a supersize discount, I might double dip.

I am making a couple changes again. My goal is to run a different setup at each event LOL:

Supermiata engine mounts
7lb 1.6 flywheel and F1spec clutch kit
R7 instead of SM6
non-Sport brakes finally to get my points back (this makes room for the R7s)

E*
205 R7
Xida
Giken


Hoping to smash my 1:52 personal best, which was set in my NA on 225/45 rivals/xida/giken. Should be cake with the new pavement and an NB.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:15 PM   #848
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What is everyone's thoughts on the current ST5/ST6 proposals? nasaforums.com ? View topic - ST 5/6 (PT 5/6) Rules Proposal Thread--give your input here

I just don't want ST6 to be slower than PTE :-\
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:05 PM   #849
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I hadn't had time to reply to your post over there yet but I'll go ahead and do it here quickly.

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Originally Posted by flier129 View Post
My main concern with the current TTB-F rule-set.... 0-point engine builds. Why is it legal with no penalty, in a low-cost class, to build a ~$4000 engine that will make 10-15 more hp than my un-opened engine? Where as I get hit with points if I want to add a $300 intake manifold and $700 ecu to see similar gains? Yes, yes I know "just do a dyno-reclass!", but I'm talking about the down-falls of the current rule-set.
There's no way to make the 0-point engine illegal since a true 0-point rebuild is fully within factory spec, or the tolerances allowed in the PT rulebook. Switching to a full power/weight rulebook, as Greg is proposing, will get rid of the need for a 0-point rebuild.

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On another note, I think 1pt = 0.14 lb/hp would ultimately lower the ceiling on how fast ST5/ST6 could go, but not necessarily lower the costs of them(see concern above, lol). Though, something along those lines could work, but I'll be sad if I see the new classes end up being slower than the old.
I agree with you, and I addressed that here:

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Obviously Greg can set the exact number to whatever is most appropriate for all cars/classes.)

In my opinion, the max power:weight ratios for each class and the vehicle specific mod factors should be set as close as possible to the current PTE and PTD dyno reclasses that are in circulation, so that anyone currently running a dyno reclass can reuse their current dyno certification papers and car setup and do nothing but add or subtract <50lb to comply with the new formula.
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:21 PM   #850
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Comparing the costs of a points build to a dyno classed, assuming both are built to the limit of the rules, the dyno class is way more expensive. Coatings, CNC ported heads, oversize valves, expensive lightweight rods, billet crank ($2700), billet damper, etc.
Our first PTD dyno class motor in 2011 would make our 147whp power cap at around 4800rpm on pump gas and stayed there until around 8200rpm. Points build is cheaper, stock sway bars!.
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:42 PM   #851
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Not always... look at PTE for example. Way cheaper for me to get to the limits of a dyno reclass with an unopened motor than it is to get to the limits of a points class build, and guess what, the guy that spent more money on the points build gets a significant power to weight advantage on top of it...

Plus, now Greg asks for information about your torque curve when submitting for a dyno reclass, so if you built a flat horsepower dyno reclass engine like you did back then, well he's going to hit you with a significant decrease in your peak HP cap as a result. Things are not the same as they were back then.
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:48 PM   #852
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex View Post
Not always... look at PTE for example. Way cheaper for me to get to the limits of a dyno reclass with an unopened motor than it is to get to the limits of a points class build, and guess what, the guy that spent more money on the points build gets a significant power to weight advantage on top of it...

Plus, now Greg asks for information about your torque curve when submitting for a dyno reclass, so if you built a flat horsepower dyno reclass engine like you did back then, well he's going to hit you with a significant decrease in your peak HP cap as a result. Things are not the same as they were back then.
You are using your personal situation as a basis for a blanket assessment on the rule set in general. That's an error. Dyno classed costs more, assuming its built to the limit of the rules. In your case though, given the desire to reuse some old parts you already have laying around, sure, points build will cost less. Big picture, points builds are more competitive with the current rule set.
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Old 06-16-2016, 02:36 PM   #853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpreston View Post
I hadn't had time to reply to your post over there yet but I'll go ahead and do it here quickly.



There's no way to make the 0-point engine illegal since a true 0-point rebuild is fully within factory spec, or the tolerances allowed in the PT rulebook. Switching to a full power/weight rulebook, as Greg is proposing, will get rid of the need for a 0-point rebuild.



I agree with you, and I addressed that here:

Solid points for sure! I guess in my mind I like to think it's purely ST4=12:1, ST5=14:1, ST6=16:1, but obviously the $$ ceiling would be ridiculously high carrying down the same rules from ST3. Honestly, I would like to see ST5 times faster than PTD and ST6 times faster than PTE.
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:10 AM   #854
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Changes made to the PT car over the weekend!

oldschool 7lb 1.6l FujiRacing flywheel and F1spec clutch installed (from my NA partout)
SuperMiata engine mounts
stock 1.8 calipers and rotors with Hawk DTC60 all around
~62lbs of ballast bolted down in the passenger seat spot.
sticker R7s mounted! Yay. First time ever on freshies.

I am hoping that that the weight saved from the clutch/flywheel, engine mounts and smaller brakes ends up in a 25-30lb weight gain, post-ballast.


That should let me make a 2410 comp weight with more fuel on a future points build, which will be a much better F/R balance than running an empty tank at a lower reclass weight... in theory...


So I am officially ready to race a whole week in advance!
PTE* +7
205 R7 +3 (10-7)
Xida +5
Giken +3

18 total.
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:23 AM   #855
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Changes made to the PT car over the weekend!

oldschool 7lb 1.6l FujiRacing flywheel and F1spec clutch installed (from my NA partout)
SuperMiata engine mounts
stock 1.8 calipers and rotors with Hawk DTC60 all around
~62lbs of ballast bolted down in the passenger seat spot.
sticker R7s mounted! Yay. First time ever on freshies.
If it's your first time on stickers, make best use of the first hr or 60~90 minutes or 4 heat cycles, whichever comes first. Haven't run R7's myself but word is they don't slow as much after the 4th cycle as the R6 did. Still. Don't practice on them for example. If you set up on older tires, the stickers will make the car a teeny bit tighter, usually a good thing unless your care is already bordering on too tight with older tires.

We used to bring two sets for a weekend. Some old tires for practice, and a sticker set for qual/race. If I thought I didn't need stickers for qual, I'd save them just for the race and be able to get one or two fast sessions next race out of them.
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:32 AM   #856
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If it's your first time on stickers, make best use of the first hr or 60~90 minutes or 4 heat cycles, whichever comes first. Haven't run R7's myself but word is they don't slow as much after the 4th cycle as the R6 did. Still. Don't practice on them for example. If you set up on older tires, the stickers will make the car a teeny bit tighter, usually a good thing unless your care is already bordering on too tight with older tires.

We used to bring two sets for a weekend. Some old tires for practice, and a sticker set for qual/race. If I thought I didn't need stickers for qual, I'd save them just for the race and be able to get one or two fast sessions next race out of them.
They're my only set :(
So I'll warm up on maxxis, then qual/race on R7s.
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:37 AM   #857
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They're my only set :(
So I'll warm up on maxxis, then qual/race on R7s.
Did you get a chance to set the car up on anything nearly as sticky? Stickers R7's will be ~3s/lap faster and make the car much tighter than RC-1's. Biggest driver adjustment will be being able to brake much deeper. Have fun.
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:47 AM   #858
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Did you get a chance to set the car up on anything nearly as sticky? Stickers R7's will be ~3s/lap faster and make the car much tighter than RC-1's. Biggest driver adjustment will be being able to brake much deeper. Have fun.
The extent of my "setup" thus far has been toe plates and air pressure only. I've been on different used tires every weekend, sometimes different sets each day of the weekend. LOL
I don't even know where my camber is. I only know that I didn't destroy the left front at midohio and my NCM tires wore perfectly until I flat spotted all four.

I am basically flying by the seat of my pants and leaning on this thread/you and my TT experience to carry me through.
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:02 PM   #859
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The extent of my "setup" thus far has been toe plates and air pressure only. I've been on different used tires every weekend, sometimes different sets each day of the weekend. LOL
I don't even know where my camber is. I only know that I didn't destroy the left front at midohio and my NCM tires wore perfectly until I flat spotted all four.

I am basically flying by the seat of my pants and leaning on this thread/you and my TT experience to carry me through.
Far be it from me, but it seems a bit of a waste to stick a $1000 set of short lived race tires on a Miata and not know what your alignment, ride heights and crossweights are. Anyway, go get'em.
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:22 PM   #860
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Far be it from me, but it seems a bit of a waste to stick a $1000 set of short lived race tires on a Miata and not know what your alignment, ride heights and crossweights are. Anyway, go get'em.
I hear that, for sure. Thankfully I didn't have to buy 'em. I know my ride heights and I know the front cam bolts are maxed. I know roughly where it "should" be, but yes, I'd like to be more exact. Racecar wrenching time is strictly rationed right now though.

Since I'm not double dipping in TT, maybe I'll bust out the pyro and put a friend to work during the practice session.

The car works. Hopefully I can show Nueman and his e36 what a 85% prepped NB can do this weekend!
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