Bar size for big spring rates?
#21
The rearmost holes on the ISC bar look like they are too far rearward to reach the control arm tabs for the end links. What's the angle of the endlinks when they're in the rear holes on the ISC?
Is that a #54104 bar from a 90-93 which is shorter than the bars for the 1.8?
Is that a #54104 bar from a 90-93 which is shorter than the bars for the 1.8?
http://www.iscracing.net/miatasuspension.html
#22
Not trying to step on Emilio's toes but I did find another rear swaybar option. Suspension Techniques makes a 14mm 3 way adjustable rear swaybar listed for the 99-05 models-part# 51177.
I also confirmed with a box end wrench that the Eibach Spec Miata rear bar is 15mm.
I also confirmed with a box end wrench that the Eibach Spec Miata rear bar is 15mm.
Last edited by wannafbody; 05-21-2013 at 05:29 PM.
#23
Not trying to step on Emilio's toes but I did find another rear swaybar option. Suspension Techniques makes a 14mm 3 way adjustable rear swaybar listed for the 99-05 models-part# 51177.
I also confirmed with a box end wrench that the Eibach Spec Miata rear bar is 15mm.
I also confirmed with a box end wrench that the Eibach Spec Miata rear bar is 15mm.
We're working on our own sway bars but they're still many months away. Nothing revolutionary. Just a bit better adjustability, lower bushing friction and a bit less expensive than current options. Plus they'll be orange.
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#27
Acetal (not Dupont Delrin brand) will be an option on our bars due at the end of the year.
Urethane works fine if it's installed properly. Yes it will have more friction than an actual metal bearing but they work, are much lighter and less expensive. For 90% of the owners out there, urethane is still the best option. Acetal bushings generate a huge increase in NVH that most users will not tolerate for daily driving. So no, they don't "suck" for the average guy Bob. Your car is a 99.9th percentile build so what meets your minimum requirements isn't always relevant to the average HPDE guy.
The OEM Racing Beat bushings are made by Prothane in Costa Mesa, CA. They are an imperfect design. I have hesitated to help RB refine their design and propagate those specs to Prothane because.. we will just fix those minor issues with our SuperMiata bars and offer an acetal option.
For those with RB bushings, it's simple. Put a washer under the front brackets to reduce preload and grease the heck out of them. Done so, and re-greased periodically, the breakaway and turning torque required is minimal. Good enough to win a pile of national championships with
Urethane works fine if it's installed properly. Yes it will have more friction than an actual metal bearing but they work, are much lighter and less expensive. For 90% of the owners out there, urethane is still the best option. Acetal bushings generate a huge increase in NVH that most users will not tolerate for daily driving. So no, they don't "suck" for the average guy Bob. Your car is a 99.9th percentile build so what meets your minimum requirements isn't always relevant to the average HPDE guy.
The OEM Racing Beat bushings are made by Prothane in Costa Mesa, CA. They are an imperfect design. I have hesitated to help RB refine their design and propagate those specs to Prothane because.. we will just fix those minor issues with our SuperMiata bars and offer an acetal option.
For those with RB bushings, it's simple. Put a washer under the front brackets to reduce preload and grease the heck out of them. Done so, and re-greased periodically, the breakaway and turning torque required is minimal. Good enough to win a pile of national championships with
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#28
For those with RB bushings, it's simple. Put a washer under the front brackets to reduce preload and grease the heck out of them. Done so, and re-greased periodically, the breakaway and turning torque required is minimal. Good enough to win a pile of national championships with
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