Ian

iTrader: (2)

If you're doing it, do it once and do it right. If the 11.75 TSE kit fits, get it and never look back.

I got Willwood's 11" kit before the TSE 11.75 was available and I continue to want to upgrade. Rotor replacement is less than half the cost for the 11.75, which is just one of the many perks.

Makes no difference if it's a street, dual duty, or track car. Mine is dual duty with XP10's in front and XP8's in rear, and as long as the pads are bedded correctly it's perfectly streetable.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

Don't get me wrong, once it's truly FIXED fixed, I love me some big brakes. However they are a waste on an N/A car that sees 3 track days a year.

That said, I still ran them because why the F not?

You can get some great street pads (Hawk HPS) for the wilwood calipers.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure my 15x7 +36 6ULs won't fit the 11.75" kit, so I will probably end up selling them and getting some 15x8 TRM C1s like Soviet because I have to copy everything he did, and also I don't know how many other 15x8 wheels will fit the big kit. Then eventually some 15x9 6ULs for when I want some stickier rubber, keeping the 15x8s for the street.

codrus

Not entirely -- they're a method of losing unsprung weight that's about as effective per-pound as buying expensive forged wheels (albeit not as effective as FM's LBK).

--Ian

codrus

Dammit, what happened to the ability to delete posts?

--Ian

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

At this point, I'd fix the master and do the steel braided lines. Save the money on the BBK until you have a more pressing need. Better kits come out all the time, and sometimes there are wicked sales going on -- or they pop up used in the FS section.

The braided lines make a big difference in feel all the time, street or track. I love them.

FowlerMotorsports

iTrader: (8)

I have no idea how it happened. I pulled out of his neighborhood and never stopped for the stupid stop signs there. When I came to a redlight my pedal went to the floor. There's no fluid in my buddies driveway and I still have fluid in my master cylinder. I'm about to take the rest of my day off and go work on the car to figure out what's going on exactly.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Could be HIV.

FowlerMotorsports

iTrader: (8)

I've never been around you hustler. Doubt it

FowlerMotorsports

iTrader: (8)

Okay I'm lost and out of words. Came home to the car completely empty of brake fluid (last night when I parked it it was at the normal level). Okay obvious leak right? None, checked under the car and nothing is soaked in brake fluid or even damp. Well searched the area where I had parked it and I couldn't see anything obvious, I parked in the dirt incase it had leaked over night. Well my last thought was to put some fluid in it and pump pump pump it up. Well it's building pressure but not losing any fluid what so ever. What the hell? This does not make any sense to me what so ever, where do I even start to diagnosis this?????

z31maniac

Fluid leaking back into the booster? Seen it a few times with E30s, but I'd think it would start leaking out of the booster pretty quickly.

FowlerMotorsports

iTrader: (8)

Clean as a whistle. Car is sitting in the garage to see if I can get it to drip over night. Seems tonight I will be pumping, and pumping, and pumping

my fear is a hard line is tweaked or knicked, good excuse to get my guy to make my all stainless brakes? hehe

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Booster can hold a fair amount of fluid without leaking. Did you replace/rebuild the master or are you still monitoring? A leaking master can still build pressure if you pump it.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

check your floor mats?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

And make sure you really get under there because I hear it doesnt always make the carpet wet but will make the pad behind it and the firewall wet.

FowlerMotorsports

iTrader: (8)

Came home to a leakless car. Nothing dripped over night and the master is full of fluid. I pulled the master out and checked between there and the booster, clean as can be. I pulled my floor mat, carpet and the back pad and there is nothing wet with fluid.

As far as I can tell, well I can't. The only thing I had noticed prior to this was my E-brake light came on a few days before. Could this have any relations? I don't see how it would but i'm just curious. I'm getting aggravated, about to pull off all of my brakes and do SS lines and acquire some parts from a few members to get me going again.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

The brake light is multi-purpose. It illuminates for the E-brake and also for low fluid.

FowlerMotorsports

iTrader: (8)

Well front brakes were shipped out today, now I need to find some rears. I'm going to replaces my lines with SS lines and probably rebuild my masters.

Find rear sports or just upgrade to 1.8 brakes?

curly

iTrader: (25)

My 11" wilwood fronts are fine with 1.8 rears, most say go for sport rears if you can though.

What fronts did you end up going with?

Your issue is weird. You've definitely been loosing fluid for a few days if the light came on, and that's a fairly low warning. Look at the wiring on master cylinder reservoir, it's towards the bottom.

Has the pedal seemed squishy or have you smelled brake fluid lately? Could be a piston seal letting fluid off onto the rotor or pad and burning off, I still think you'd see something.

FowlerMotorsports

iTrader: (8)

Sport fronts. I'm close to buying another miata so the sports will go on my DD. This will be the daily until then.

The pedal was semi squishy when I headed over to his house hours before. When the brakes come in I will be able to fully check everything over when it's all torn apart. It doesn't make sense to me, fluid has to be going somewhere. Its not evaporating lol so what the Hell! New car time