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Chump preperations

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Old 05-23-2014, 03:29 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Leafy
Same story, the Coronet that I'm in $250 for completed its first race. Welded a brake pad backer plate to the piston and finally called it a day because the valve cover gasket was puking too much oil and no one felt like fixing it. Once we get the brakes figured out this thing is going to be so cheap to run. It hardly wore the Rivals on it. But its still a rusty turd that you can see the ground through the floor, A LOT, and it has no truck and doesnt have enough rear window frame that hasnt rusted away to hold a window any more.
Yeah, I love seeing the ground. And having the floor get so hot that SFI 3.1 shoes get tacky soles and stick to the floor. Thanks rusty exhaust.
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Old 06-07-2014, 12:01 PM
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We ran the 14 hour Daytona Chump two weeks ago. Did pretty well, won the EC division. But we were 24th overall (out of 123) and there were a lot of big HP cars to keep up with. The Miata is a normally aspirated 1.6 liter '92. We're considering adding a turbo before the Sebring Chump in September. Has anyone got experience and a recommendation for a turbo brand that would be reliable for a 14 hour race?
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Old 06-07-2014, 03:14 PM
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From my experience, its front hubs, oil starvation, overheating and transmission failures that kill cars.

For hubs, repack them, bring spares, know how to swap hubs.
For oil starvation, since its a miata, you just need to keep an eye on oil level. Check it as often as you can (e.g. pit the car during the race and check it)
Overheating is usually caused by the driver ignoring the coolant temperature gauge, and the gauge being useless.
Transmission failures are self explanatory and are, imo, unavoidable with a bunch of rookie drivers.
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Old 06-07-2014, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
Whats the problem with the 1.6 rear?
Autocross post in an endurance race thread
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