DOHCPanther

So the door wont close with the glass in the down position? Well with large bars anyway?

**** got to go eat midnight chow is going to close. ****** 24 hour war but 9 to 5 support.

curly

iTrader: (25)

I want more pictures of this interior, including the door. What was done to it? That is all.

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

Oh, basically just welded small holes and a few fiberglass panels made to cover bigger spans. Then Rhino lined, and then painted white. Simple, but time consuming.

94blackmx5

Couldn't you just make the clips easily removable with some pins or something,then a small side track to keep the window secure when it's down. Then you could push it up and down by hand then pop the clips back on to keep it up and take them off to have it down?

jasonb

Machismo that is just what i was looking for. glass for on-trailer and hotels, no glass when driving. clean.

do you know what your door weighs now?

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

Car weighed in at 2,061 lbs. at a Miata Challenge on the scales without me in it and one more door to complete. They are light, but I don't know their weights.

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

I don't have many shots of the interior as requested as it being rehashed for its 4th makeover. It is still a 15 ft. car, any closer and it still looks pretty rough. You know the drill.
One of the door and window clip in question -
Dash, crash pad, and bolsters are covered in "feaux" Alcantara.
***Edit*** I guess it is time to start a build thread.

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

I zip tie my windows into place when trailer or driving in rain conditions (if they allow it)

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

Zip ties FTW!

jasonb

oh thats right, you did a writeup on that which i had forgotten about. i haven't looked at the mechanism, are the windows secure enough to go on-track? if so, also sounds reasonably secure for hotel parking lot. i like my aim dash, would like to keep it.

muchas graz

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

/\ I would think so. Atleast slow them down, I mean it is just glass. But they won't know the difference, as it looks like any other Miata sitting there with the window up.

Race

iTrader: (1)

I rode in a NB at midohio. It was fully caged and as far as I know was running all spec miata parts. He had those windows with the hooks. He told me though that it was only for trailering not for driving because the windows would break on the metal hooks from bumps and things. Anybody try a lexan version at all? something that is the same shape/mold as a stock window and then rivet it to the door or something? The other thing I worry about with a full cage in a street car besides the added attention is the halo bars hitting my melon. Helmets only? I dont think a ton of padding would help much less remove room from my 6'1" frame.

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

/\ Then let's hope he doesn't doesn't hit any bumps when its on the trailer. The compression fit that is created does not allow the window to freely move when the door is closed. I've been driving with this setup for nearly two years and have yet to have a problem. (Knocks on wood)
Clear tubing from the hardware store slipped over the "L" solves that.

Thought about using Lexan when I did the rear HT window, but there is a convex curve that needs to be there to put compression for when the door is closed. The windows are not flat. A piece of round rod used as a frame bent to shape and tabs for rivets is the solution there. Too much work for what it really is at that point. I'm not drag racing here, and windows are only for inclement weather for my purpose.

Full cage = race and Roll bar w/ door bars = street. Take your pick... I've since uninstalled the cage and installed the latter for street purposes. Yes, full cage for street is not the best of ideas.

Race

iTrader: (1)

yeah but the windshield crushing is scary too...I've come to terms with the fact that i'll probably never rock a full caged miata. If anything I'll pick one up on the cheap with a windshield removed and a big rollbar/door bars etc added in. then I can be tall and roll over and still live.

RyanRaduechel

iTrader: (10)

Here is what I did, if I had my car I would take a picture of how the window is held in. But its getting the cage installed. No brackets holding mine up. I did it a little different. But the same concept, the lift out and can be put back in in a few seconds. When the door is closed its nice and solid against the rubber seals on the hard top. The window is not in for this picture but it is all I have, tomorrow I take my seat down for mounting so I will snap some more pics.

-Ryan

Race

iTrader: (1)

It'd be cool to get the stringy thing in there to open the doors F40 style. i'm sure people have done it. I just wish that someone made formed lexan replacements somewhere.

jacob300zx

that's bullshit about the windows breaking if you drive with those tabs. i have thousands of miles on mine without problem. and to hold my windows when they are out i use my mazdaspeed floor mats. keeps the glass nice and safe.

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

/\ Exactly.

Race

iTrader: (1)

haha I wasn't saying that you were lying. I just was repeating what he told me. I'm not even sure if he really tried with running the windows on the street other than the trailer.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

For what it is worth; I took a stock window and screwed a sheet of .060 plastic to the bottom and dropped it in so the plastic bowed to the outside skin of the door and rested on the bottom. Adjusted the final height by trimming the bottom of the plastic sheet. Pull out the whole thing when you get to the track. Sorry, no pics, car was sold.