hustler

iTrader: (6)

I know, but with 10' of #10 hose I bet there is at least half a quart in the hose alone and the accumulator will push that oil in addition to the oil in the can.

Rennkafer

iTrader: (3)

Doesn't work that way... if you push a quart of oil into the hose, a quart will come out (assuming the hose is already full, if not you may get less).

The other thing to remember if you're using the Accusump as a hydraulic accumulator it's only going to push oil for the amount of time the Accusump has more pressure than the engine... may not be long enough to get that quart into the engine.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Reread...that's exactly what I explained. Do we need more than 1qt for the period of time we're on the brake from say 120mph down to 20mph?

Rennkafer

iTrader: (3)

Sorry, looked as though you were thinking that you would get a quart and a half into the engine because of the hose.

Is a 1 QT enough... depends on several things: viscosity of the oil, flow capacity of the hoses/valves, time the engine is low on pressure. These things all change from car to car, different ambient temps, different tracks.

If you're worried about it get the 2 Qt, if you're really worried convert to a dry sump.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

If for budget DIY dry-sump kit.

MeOughtta

Just enough to reach. Maybe 10 feet. I got zero skilz so work was done by Shane Benson at AIM Tuning. Size? The higher pressure you want it to provide, the less time it will last. With my 2qt set for 20psi with cold oil, pressure drops from 20 psi to 10 psi over about 20 seconds. With hot oil, it only gives me about 10psi dropping down to 5 psi over about 10 seconds. I think 1 quart would be good for pre-oiling, but dicey as insurance against oil starvation.

Not smart enough to answer this, but I'm sure others are.

One other idea: Put a low pressure alarm on the pressure side of the Accusump; it will buzz you *before* you actually lose all oil pressure.

bbundy

Did you use an electronic valve or manual?

I decided when my rebuild goes in accusump will also be installed. Pictures of odd damage to a rod bearing attached.

Bob

wildo

iTrader: (1)

That right there, is a great idea!

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

I'm doing this to prevent another built motor paperweight adventure.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

I used pressure sensor S367 from O'Reilly auto in my remote mount filter, and then have it wired up to an LED in my pillar next to oil temp. It cost around 10 dollars total for the low pressure light which is rather annoying when the car is not on but the ign is in the run position (so you know you'll see it!)

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

As we say here at mt.n this thread is full of win.

MeOughtta

I have the electric valve, but if I had it to do over again, I'd probably go with a manual valve mounted in a very convenient location.

For a track-only car, I would not consider anything but the manual valve.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Why?

thymer

iTrader: (5)

+1. Our setups could really benefit.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I believe the electronic valves flow less.

I'm going to put mine in the trunk with the long cabled valve. Savington is going to get one for me, we're in love.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Get a room...

Well it would be a lot cheaper without the pressure triggered electric valve setup so I am not going to argue too much for that.

wildo

iTrader: (1)

Other than cost, what is the down-side of the electric valve? Seems that the set pressure points of the EPC valve are a nice feature. 20-25 PSI, 35-40 PSI, and 55-60 PSI versions are available.

Description of the 35-40 PSI valve from Canton Racing's Accsump website:
"This Electric Pressure Control Valve Kit is for a discharge/refill of 35-40 PSI. These valves have the convenience of an electric valve for remote mounted units and the rapid refill rate of a manual valve as required in racing. The E.P.C. valving will only allow the Accusump to discharge oil when the engine’s oil pressure drops below a predetermined level and only refill when the pressure rises above that level. Comes with the regulator, electric valve, a pipe nipple, a toggle switch, wire, terminals and instructions."

The #1 reason I like the idea of the EPC valve, is that I'm an idiot. With my luck the one time I REALLY NEED the Accsump to work would be the one time that I forgot to open the valve.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Word. I have considered this as well. In fact I already know how I am going to die. It will be because I am going to forget to do something, and the consequence will be fatal.

The peace of mind is worth $150. I need to make up my mind...

bbundy

Yea it seems the standard electric valve is really only good for pre-oiling and doesn’t react well enough for good surge control. Doesn’t seem like a good option for what I want.

The Manual valve seems bullet proof as long as you remember the proper sequence of flipping the valve and can place it where you have access.

The EPC Electric valve seems like with the pressure discharge/refill window and the rapid flow capability would be the functionally the best. Question is will it operate as flaky as so many other electronic control devices I have fiddled with or will it actually consistently and reliably work as advertised?

Also with the EPC valve which of the available discharge/refill pressure options would be best for a miata engine, 20-25, 35-40, or 55-60?

Bob

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

With the amount of money spent on an accusump (3-400$) you could probably get a decent dry sump kit started.

Finding a pump for cheap is the only real problem, everything else can be made diy style.

Then you wouldn't have to worry about the accusump actually working properly, but it will cost abit more upfront.

Cost of Accusump + another rebuild when it ***** up > Dry sump diy system