bbundy

Impala? Ok I think I met you a few years back at Reno-Fernley I did a 2 day event with Bonnie and Team-Racing.

Bob

Boost Joose

Any final verdicts here? This was a very good thread and now I'm wondering what actually happened? Bundy, did you get the accusump and solve all your problems? Anyone go dry sump? ANyone find a superior baffle design? BUMP!

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Considering a bunch of threads came out of my oil pan drain bung I have a feeling I may have to do this mod soon.

bbundy

Been running the baffle and an accusump for a while now.

The EPC valve pressure switch quit working right and was flaky so I’m just running the accusump with the switch bypassed so the electric valve opens with the ignition turned on.

Put the key in turn it to run and oil pressure comes up then I hit the start button. Turn the key off and the accusump stays charged at whatever pressure there was when I turned it off. While running the valve is open and the accusump comes into action if the pressure tries to drop.

So far so good.

However the last oil change a disturbing piece of metal was stuck to my magnetic drain plug. I’m pretty sure it was a small piece of a wrist pin circlip. Those things were a bitch to put in and take out The new Wiesco ones were twice as thick as the old ones. I may have damaged it during assembly/re-assembly after putting it together wrong the first time. I’m hoping there is enough of it left in that it still keeps the wrist pin located.

Id still like to go Dry sump as I think that would solve the crank case breather issues as well.


Bob

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Scope the bore, you will definitely see the mark a chunk of circlip leaves when it pops out.

Bob, how many track hours did your two previous motors have before you tore them down?

bbundy

If you look at the bottom of the current iteration of Wiesco pistons you can see that a chunk of the circlip can fall out without scraping the bore at all. I also think there is a better chance than not that there is enough circlip left properly seated to still hold the wrist pin in place. Previous motors didn’t have much for track hours on them before Oil consumption issues followed by burnt exhaust valves. Didn’t even make a full year.
New Wiesco pistons and blocked off oil squrters seems to be much better.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Bat Inc sells a fairly affordable Accusump valve-rig that I may pick up in the future (I will have a tough time picking it up in the past).

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

FWIW I have a 3-qt accusump with an EPC valve. In a Miata, but with an LS1. It is mounted in the trunk to help with weight distribution. I have used it at several TT events and it works very well. When I can, I glance at oil pressures in long corners and I have always seen plenty of pressure. I have no pan baffling and the LS1 is worse than the Miata engine when it comes to oil starvation, especially lateral loads (in corners). It's a well known LS1 issue.

It takes a looooooooong time for the 3-qt to drain, at least at about 38 psi so I am not sure it needs to be that big. A 2-qt would probably have been plenty. This advice is worth what you are paying for it.

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, you guys def. need them.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

troll troll troll your boat.

GT42R

2qt accusump here. 35-45psi EFC valve. No dry starting the built motor is worth it alone imo.

Rennkafer

iTrader: (3)

If you decide to go that route Bob, let me know. I built a bunch of dry sump systems working at the race shop in CA.

It should solve your breather issues as the breather goes straight to the oil tank, and the scavenge section of the pump tends to keep the oil from sitting up top of the engine as well.

wildo

iTrader: (1)

+1

Have not had a single issue with the 35-45 EPC valve. I also have an on/off switch so I can power the car without starting it, and without dumping the oil.

Turn key. Flip switch to on. OP gauge goes to ~45 psi and slowly bleeds down. Start engine.

Minimum OP under heavy braking went from 9 PSI to 25, and average from 15-20 to 30+.

bbundy

my pressure switch on the epc valve started acting flaky. Sometimes it wouldn’t switch on when the pressure was low so it was as if I didn’t have an accusump. I just bypassed the pressure switch and just have an on off switch on the dash. mostly just leave it on all the time I couldn’t really see where the pressure switch was really improving the way it worked if it worked properly even.

Bob

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Why is the oil pan so confused?

GT42R

EPC's main benefit is in fast refilling. The valve is really just a check valve. When the epc has the valve is 'closed' it allows pressure to flow into the accusump, but not flow out. If your engine's oil pressure doesn't have to 'push' on an open valved accusump, it effectively allows it to refill the accumulator quicker.