Help me build my car
02-27-2013, 04:22 PM
#121
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 992
Total Cats: 57
For a track car, the MS3 unit is a better route to go than the one I have (DIYPnP & VVTuner)
Is this applicable when compared to Reverants MS2 Enhanced as well..?
I am close to committing but am worried the MS3 or MS3 + is going to be better for my road/track/race car....?
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03-19-2013, 05:26 PM
#122
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 105
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I'm getting cold feet.
I was thinking the other day about how much money I have into this car. Its disgusting. Kind of defeated the point of buying a miata in the first place (half of it is my fault doing things that aren't necessary).
I really do love driving this car. My biggest complaint is heat. I can not keep the interior of the car from heating up like an oven. I have the header/exhaust wrapped, shielding, foil tape on the undercarriage. Still, the bolts/brackets on the aluminum ultrashield suck up heat like a french ***** and make my toosh REALLY hot. The second issue is that I need to take the cage to get modified to fit a passenger seat comfortably.
I really want the car to be faster, but going turbo is going to make my heat issues MUCH worse, and turn this into a 20 thousand dollar miata.
Here's my dilemma. I was just offered a rust free (rare in NY) 1995 impreza and COMPLETE 2005 STI drivetrain for 5 grand. For <10k, I could have a sti swapped 95 impreza track car with a stripped weight of 2600lbs. This is my dream car, as I am a subaru guy at heart.
What do I do :(
I was thinking the other day about how much money I have into this car. Its disgusting. Kind of defeated the point of buying a miata in the first place (half of it is my fault doing things that aren't necessary).
I really do love driving this car. My biggest complaint is heat. I can not keep the interior of the car from heating up like an oven. I have the header/exhaust wrapped, shielding, foil tape on the undercarriage. Still, the bolts/brackets on the aluminum ultrashield suck up heat like a french ***** and make my toosh REALLY hot. The second issue is that I need to take the cage to get modified to fit a passenger seat comfortably.
I really want the car to be faster, but going turbo is going to make my heat issues MUCH worse, and turn this into a 20 thousand dollar miata.
Here's my dilemma. I was just offered a rust free (rare in NY) 1995 impreza and COMPLETE 2005 STI drivetrain for 5 grand. For <10k, I could have a sti swapped 95 impreza track car with a stripped weight of 2600lbs. This is my dream car, as I am a subaru guy at heart.
What do I do :(
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03-19-2013, 06:46 PM
#124
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There's some good threads on here about trans tunnel shielding and heat management. I still think you'll want to use something more substantial than the foil and ideally a gap between the tunnel and foil or whatever you use. Have you ripped the carpet? Insulation under the carpet helps. Pics of your current shielding?
I have the header/test pipe wrapped. Where it fits, I have heat shielding from a subaru trans tunnel spaced off about 1/2-3/4". I have foil tape on the underside of the trans tunnel, and I cut out a piece of carpet and taped it to the inside of the trans tunnel. I think the MAJOR problem is the tunnel notch-- the "notched" portion is about 1/8" from the exhaust, making it impossible to really "shield" it.
Not really good pics but...its all I have right now.
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03-20-2013, 02:25 AM
#125
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 992
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Do you have a front undertray cover?
I made one that didn't go forward of my spoiler (i.e not like a splitter) that i feel has considerably lowered the heat transfer in to the cabin. So long as you dont sit at lights etc too much.
edit: In hindsite I believe it must fit the air flow and encourage air passage to the back of the car much better. Mine fits the front airdam profile and bolts to the front of the crossmember like the plastic one did but mine goes out wider towards the wheels more.....
BUT.... I agree, I really struggle with heat in my car as well.
Prior to the undertray my gearbox tunnel top and left side (fortunately passenger side on my car) got burning hot. Even my fan after 10-20 mins pumps around hot, hot air on the cold setting......
I am also contemplating oval cut outs in my hard top glass at the bottom which, from what i can tell, is a low pressure area. Not sure if they can cut the glass but a lexan replacement certainly could. I believe that, aside from the obvious heat generating areas, extraction is a big part of my problem. Air does not vacate the cabin like it does on other cars.......
If not already, try the undertray, took me about 1 hour and a 1/4 - 1/3 sheet of 2mm ali sheet.
I made one that didn't go forward of my spoiler (i.e not like a splitter) that i feel has considerably lowered the heat transfer in to the cabin. So long as you dont sit at lights etc too much.
edit: In hindsite I believe it must fit the air flow and encourage air passage to the back of the car much better. Mine fits the front airdam profile and bolts to the front of the crossmember like the plastic one did but mine goes out wider towards the wheels more.....
BUT.... I agree, I really struggle with heat in my car as well.
Prior to the undertray my gearbox tunnel top and left side (fortunately passenger side on my car) got burning hot. Even my fan after 10-20 mins pumps around hot, hot air on the cold setting......
I am also contemplating oval cut outs in my hard top glass at the bottom which, from what i can tell, is a low pressure area. Not sure if they can cut the glass but a lexan replacement certainly could. I believe that, aside from the obvious heat generating areas, extraction is a big part of my problem. Air does not vacate the cabin like it does on other cars.......
If not already, try the undertray, took me about 1 hour and a 1/4 - 1/3 sheet of 2mm ali sheet.
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03-20-2013, 03:09 AM
#126
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 105
Total Cats: 1
Do you have a front undertray cover?
I made one that didn't go forward of my spoiler (i.e not like a splitter) that i feel has considerably lowered the heat transfer in to the cabin. So long as you dont sit at lights etc too much.
edit: In hindsite I believe it must fit the air flow and encourage air passage to the back of the car much better. Mine fits the front airdam profile and bolts to the front of the crossmember like the plastic one did but mine goes out wider towards the wheels more.....
BUT.... I agree, I really struggle with heat in my car as well.
Prior to the undertray my gearbox tunnel top and left side (fortunately passenger side on my car) got burning hot. Even my fan after 10-20 mins pumps around hot, hot air on the cold setting......
I am also contemplating oval cut outs in my hard top glass at the bottom which, from what i can tell, is a low pressure area. Not sure if they can cut the glass but a lexan replacement certainly could. I believe that, aside from the obvious heat generating areas, extraction is a big part of my problem. Air does not vacate the cabin like it does on other cars.......
If not already, try the undertray, took me about 1 hour and a 1/4 - 1/3 sheet of 2mm ali sheet.
I made one that didn't go forward of my spoiler (i.e not like a splitter) that i feel has considerably lowered the heat transfer in to the cabin. So long as you dont sit at lights etc too much.
edit: In hindsite I believe it must fit the air flow and encourage air passage to the back of the car much better. Mine fits the front airdam profile and bolts to the front of the crossmember like the plastic one did but mine goes out wider towards the wheels more.....
BUT.... I agree, I really struggle with heat in my car as well.
Prior to the undertray my gearbox tunnel top and left side (fortunately passenger side on my car) got burning hot. Even my fan after 10-20 mins pumps around hot, hot air on the cold setting......
I am also contemplating oval cut outs in my hard top glass at the bottom which, from what i can tell, is a low pressure area. Not sure if they can cut the glass but a lexan replacement certainly could. I believe that, aside from the obvious heat generating areas, extraction is a big part of my problem. Air does not vacate the cabin like it does on other cars.......
If not already, try the undertray, took me about 1 hour and a 1/4 - 1/3 sheet of 2mm ali sheet.
I cant replace my glass due to classing, so I'm stuck with my 1/4 window ducts. I should put a subaru roof scoop through the hardtop :P
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03-20-2013, 04:27 AM
#127
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 992
Total Cats: 57
I thought of something similar but figure thats just trying to jam more air in and not vacate the hot air out....
I also think bypassing my water heater radiator might help too (although demisting etc needs hot air sometimes....)
I dont get the hot air blowing when on cold business...
I also think bypassing my water heater radiator might help too (although demisting etc needs hot air sometimes....)
I dont get the hot air blowing when on cold business...
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03-20-2013, 11:51 AM
#128
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Location: Tampa, Florida
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After seeing the racing Civic fire video I don't like vented rear glass areas at all, though.
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07-15-2013, 03:54 PM
#129
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"Buy a Porsche" they said. "You will be so fast on the race track" they said.
Had a ton of fun at Mosport this weekend. Absolutely my favorite track. Best lap of the day was a 1:47.7, with a typical clean lap between 1:48-1:50.
Had a ton of fun at Mosport this weekend. Absolutely my favorite track. Best lap of the day was a 1:47.7, with a typical clean lap between 1:48-1:50.
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07-15-2013, 07:34 PM
#131
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Surprisingly everyone was pretty cool. Many of them came over to talk and see what was in the car. Was a pleasure telling them it had no motor work and seeing their faces.
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07-15-2013, 11:39 PM
#132
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: toronto
Posts: 142
Total Cats: 7
I spent most of the day on saturday working on my heel/toe. I definitely need to get some different shoes or do something differently because I have trouble modulating the brake pedal.
I had an interesting issue that went along with the heel/toe, and I wonder if anyone else has had this issue as well. Turns out, when I move my leg/knee to heel/toe shift, i frequently bump the ignition key with my knee and turn the car off. I probably did this 8 times over the course of the day. I guess Ill have to make the car push start.
I know I forgot to hook my HANS tethers up. Ignore that.
tmp728 - YouTube
I took 1 second off my previous best time in this car, and I am now faster in this than I was in my sti. Best lap of the day was 1:27.6 with a number of laps in the high 1:27's. I am extremely consistent at getting 1:28 laps (every lap was a 1:27 or :28, minus the laps that I shut the damn car off).
I think I can gain some more time at the last turn, as I am still a bit skiddish after my offroad excursions last time in this turn. I really don't want to meet that concrete wall at an open lapping day.
I brake way too soon for turn 2, but I think I will get better with that as I get better at heel/toe (i was being cautious because I was screwing up every once in a while...didnt want an 80mph offroad event). I come into the corner saying "brake late" over and over again but my feet dont listen.
I also need to do something differently at turn 7.
I cant tell if I am over-revving or what when i downshift-- i either need to take more speed into the turn and stay in 3rd or do something completely different. The speed that I am going is right between gears-- obvious answer is to go faster.
In turn 10, I started taking more of a straight line through the corner (learned that from a friend and videos from the guy who holds the track record). That allows me to have a much higher corner entry/exit speed than the old line i took (i stay in 3rd now) and I feel that the car is more stable (the track on the far right at corner entry is extremely bumpy making braking difficult with my old line).
I feel that I am starting to get better at the "momentum driving" that is required for these cars. My second event I spent way too much time shifting and not enough time trying to drive smoothly. This video is much less dramatic, but a second faster than I was before.
I had an interesting issue that went along with the heel/toe, and I wonder if anyone else has had this issue as well. Turns out, when I move my leg/knee to heel/toe shift, i frequently bump the ignition key with my knee and turn the car off. I probably did this 8 times over the course of the day. I guess Ill have to make the car push start.
I know I forgot to hook my HANS tethers up. Ignore that.
tmp728 - YouTube
I took 1 second off my previous best time in this car, and I am now faster in this than I was in my sti. Best lap of the day was 1:27.6 with a number of laps in the high 1:27's. I am extremely consistent at getting 1:28 laps (every lap was a 1:27 or :28, minus the laps that I shut the damn car off).
I think I can gain some more time at the last turn, as I am still a bit skiddish after my offroad excursions last time in this turn. I really don't want to meet that concrete wall at an open lapping day.
I brake way too soon for turn 2, but I think I will get better with that as I get better at heel/toe (i was being cautious because I was screwing up every once in a while...didnt want an 80mph offroad event). I come into the corner saying "brake late" over and over again but my feet dont listen.
I also need to do something differently at turn 7.
I cant tell if I am over-revving or what when i downshift-- i either need to take more speed into the turn and stay in 3rd or do something completely different. The speed that I am going is right between gears-- obvious answer is to go faster.
In turn 10, I started taking more of a straight line through the corner (learned that from a friend and videos from the guy who holds the track record). That allows me to have a much higher corner entry/exit speed than the old line i took (i stay in 3rd now) and I feel that the car is more stable (the track on the far right at corner entry is extremely bumpy making braking difficult with my old line).
I feel that I am starting to get better at the "momentum driving" that is required for these cars. My second event I spent way too much time shifting and not enough time trying to drive smoothly. This video is much less dramatic, but a second faster than I was before.
-10, everybody does something different. seems to be no right answer.
-a quick non turbo miata time is 1:22---1:24. I'm running a pathetic 1:24 with a 210whp /200wtq 1990. there's guys with 130whp miatas running 1:24's. humbling when you see the lap times in front of you.
honestly, I think you should turbo it and just enjoy the handling and the speed. you only live once.
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08-26-2013, 03:54 PM
#133
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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And well, I sold the car. At the end of the day, it came down to how small it is and how...not small....I am. I think it if was a few inches bigger in every direction, I would have kept it. On its way to the new owner this weekend.
Building a new car for next year. Full drivetrain out of a 2005 STI swapped into a GC impreza coupe. Rotated gt30 turbo. FMIC. e85. Its gonna be a hoot!
Swapped '95 Coupe - Track Car Build - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
Building a new car for next year. Full drivetrain out of a 2005 STI swapped into a GC impreza coupe. Rotated gt30 turbo. FMIC. e85. Its gonna be a hoot!
Swapped '95 Coupe - Track Car Build - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
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