NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

Then go for the least amount of difference to get non-stock dimensions, just for the sake of being special.

Tame cams and low revs, why build for anything besides reliability?

That I went with china rods was just to get away from stock, even though I did not need to. But I run mine for just 8 hours per year.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Is that a vote for JE or Wiseco? I want to see 160whp so I can run in TTD and not have a horsepower deficit when 949 comes to town.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

No need to get all bent out of shape.

Seriously though, I see that you are taking the time to aquire a lot of technical knowledge of motors, probably much more than I know, but you need to also think practical.

Those fancy pistons with the perfect quench pad, geometry, blah blah blah, is going to be important in a much more high strung a motor than what you are building. You are trying to make just over 160 hp for crying out loud. A lesser piston than the high dollar FM will be just fine for you.

Take your hard earned money and put it to quality, proven parts and methods that will meet your performance goals.

I know I sound like a broken record, but please, please invest in SUBs and mild head work. It is not that expensive, and it works.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

How much are SUBs and what kind of headword and what does it cost?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Hussy, you only want to make 160? Whats wrong with stock compression again? "Stock" internally VVT engine, 93 vs e85, just sayin.



Just replace the bits that normally fail on this engine, the valve springs and I guess the rods.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

It has been a while since I bought them. A few hunderd bucks. The key is buy the SUBs, measure the gap from lifter to camshaft, then order the correct shims. You may need to make a few adjustments on the shims with a flat surface and sandpaper if get some shims that are a tad too big.

I spent a little over $400.00 on head work before, and made considerable gains. You can spend a lot more if you go through the flow testing, extensive porting, and all that jazz. If you go mild and you are not building a custom camshaft, it is not important to have flow testing.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Was that car detontation limitted on gasoline and needed the spark advantage with the E85? I don't believe anyone is getting 175whp out of a factory VVT engine. I don't know enough about E85 tuning to consider it, it's also fairly impossible to get around here.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for not telling us a quantitative value gained.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I would go with higher compression. It is a sure fire way to make more power.

Is a splash of race fuel out of the question for track use? I tuned my 11.5:1+ motor on pump gas, and added a few gallons of race gas for track use all the time.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Out of the question. I did the "extreme heatsoak deal" where I make the header glow nice and yellow on the dyno, then a ramp run because that's what it's like on the track. I want to get the head off this weekend and see what happened. Hopefully it was a bad tune, but I seriously doubt that's the case.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I know you have seen my threads before.

I ran a 13.89 in the quarter mile with a $400.00 port job on a 95 cylinder head, SUBs, and very mild duration camshaft with decent lift. All done naturally aspirated. I went much faster with the 99 head.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Why don't you just tell me the name of the movie you'd like to see?

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Do you want help or what?

I did not dyno the car. I did my power testing at the dragstrip, much more fun than the dyno. If the car went faster I made more power

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

OEM 10:1, china rods or whatever you can get your hands on?

If it gets tight and it's only the motor that makes the difference, you would probably want to cap it at 160 and stay close to that over a range. So I guess you are looking for 10 more as max and then restrict it a bit for classing.
The NB heads respond well to a very mild fixup (flow-vise, mine have not seen a dyno even on photo).
MS SUBs is around $200, all the headwork, shims etc was around $600 for me (different market, with different prices).

Nothing that you don't already know, as usual...

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'm tuning my 10:1 daily VVT engine tomorrow...you guys expect that car to make 160whp? I don't.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Does it have a header, flat top, free flowing exhaust, and a tuned length intake tube?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

My EOM VVT engine has:
99 intake plenum
RB header
Roadstersport exhaust
non-engineered intake tube

Track car has
99 head
5a cam
square top intake plenum
RB header
magic exhaust
non-engineered intake tube

I believe 949's Orange street car only made like 145whp with all the fancy stuff we listed.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

Do you expect it to be radically different if the pistons have another brand or if the rods are 1mm longer?

As long as you stay on stockish cams or don't increase the low-lift flow you will not change much. Tuning the rest of the instrument to match is crucial of course.

Heck, I'm shooting for 190bhp, which probably is close to 160whp. But the metric system is different of course

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I spoke of a 7mm rod length increase and half point compression increase to 10.5:1, which is a large increase and worth the work according to 949 on stockish cams.

Cams are nto an option because they're too god damned expensive and I hear the 5a cam is hot like fiya.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I just called Endyne to see if it was something I could even afford. I let the guy know that if he was busy I was happy to call at another time, he rambled off a bunch of dollar figures faster than I could write them down. I asked him to repeat two numbers and he got mouthy with me, "I already told you"; my money is going somewhere else. lol I hope it was worth it because now I'm going to talk **** about him...on the internet!!!!!!!!!!!

It really sucks bcause I kind of wanted to respect that guy since they do cool stuff. It's a real shame that I lost my previous machinist who did great work, most other shops charge at least double, no one wants to take the work because it's a poverty Miata, and thsoe that could have a shitty attitude. Maybe it's junkyard engine time.