Race Seats: FloorBoard Modification
#1
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Race Seats: FloorBoard Modification
So I bought a Corbeau FX1 Pro with the aluminum side rails. I have not tried to place it in the car yet, but from what I have read the transmission tunnel hump can get in the way of the side mounts.
How many of you guys have hammered in the exhaust system hump in the transmission tunnel. Did that solve your issue? Did you remove the stock seat mounting locations? If so how are your seats mounted?
I refuse to use sliders and would really much rather have side mount than bottom mount. Any info would be great.
FOR REFERENCE:
96 NA miata
My current floor board:
And from this site:
http://houstonmiataclub.com/index.php?topic=1055.0
How many of you guys have hammered in the exhaust system hump in the transmission tunnel. Did that solve your issue? Did you remove the stock seat mounting locations? If so how are your seats mounted?
I refuse to use sliders and would really much rather have side mount than bottom mount. Any info would be great.
FOR REFERENCE:
96 NA miata
My current floor board:
And from this site:
http://houstonmiataclub.com/index.php?topic=1055.0
Last edited by 240_to_miata; 05-23-2011 at 08:01 PM.
#2
After removing the seat "bumps" as you've done I then had to do some serious coercing to get my Corbeau bottom mount in there. The solid Sparco rails came out of a C5 which obviously had more room there.
It CAN be done though. Just don't use anything with a sharp edge and do it on a hot day.
It CAN be done though. Just don't use anything with a sharp edge and do it on a hot day.
#3
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Look closer at my post. The pics I posted were just for reference from some other guy. Only the first pic is my car. I havent done anything yet.
So you are using bottom mount still. Not side mount?
So you are using bottom mount still. Not side mount?
#4
The rear humps are really all that will need to be taken out. I have sparco side mounts for my pax seat and only had to remove the rears. If the front brace has to removed, I would look into a way to truss the floorboards a bit as then it becomes a nice big flimsy panel at that point. I see from the pics that the installer chose bar stock for that. If you have to clearance the tunnel then I would say it would be a very tight fit if door bars are in the future.
#6
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So your seat is side mount or bottom mount? Bottom is uber easy. Use the stock front holes and make your own in the back with giant washers underneath. If it's side mount, I really have no idea, you're on your own. Outside makes sense, but I have no idea how you'd tighten the inside bolts.
#8
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https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/has-anyone-done-before-seat-rails-inside-57411/
Little helpful info in there. You'll need two strips of 1" wide, 3/16" thick steel, about 18" each I think? $4.xx at Home Depot. Like I said, for my height (5'10"ish), I could reuse the stock front holes, but couldn't reach the stock rears. I left them there so I could bolt in a stock seat if desired. Then I just extended the seat rails about 3-4" behind the seat, drilled a 1/2" hole, and used some bolts with giant washers underneath the car. Home Depot 1/2" fender washers aren't big enough, I had some left over from a harness eye bolt set, like this one:
http://www.saferacer.com/g-force-eye...?productid=883
Although on the passenger side for the eye bolts, I used one of Home Depot's 1/2" fender washers followed by a 3/4" fender washers, sourced from the same home improvement store.
Little helpful info in there. You'll need two strips of 1" wide, 3/16" thick steel, about 18" each I think? $4.xx at Home Depot. Like I said, for my height (5'10"ish), I could reuse the stock front holes, but couldn't reach the stock rears. I left them there so I could bolt in a stock seat if desired. Then I just extended the seat rails about 3-4" behind the seat, drilled a 1/2" hole, and used some bolts with giant washers underneath the car. Home Depot 1/2" fender washers aren't big enough, I had some left over from a harness eye bolt set, like this one:
http://www.saferacer.com/g-force-eye...?productid=883
Although on the passenger side for the eye bolts, I used one of Home Depot's 1/2" fender washers followed by a 3/4" fender washers, sourced from the same home improvement store.
#9
I believe keith used the fx1 in his targa car. Check the build site for details. I remember that the FX1 has stupid feet on the bottom which you really need to cut off for it to sit reasonably low in a miata.
I looked into getting one for a long time and finally decided that ultrashield seats are a better idea.
I looked into getting one for a long time and finally decided that ultrashield seats are a better idea.
#12
I mounted that seat in my miata, and to say the least it was a pain in the ****. I cut the feet off of mine, cut the front and rear stock mounting humps. I bottom mounted mine straight to the floor board with big *** steel backing plates, no bracket. I had to hammer out the trans. tunnel and after all that the left shoulder wing still kind of hit the inner door panel.
I'm 6'2" so I didn't really have room for sliders or a bracket, hence why I mounted it straight to the floor.
I'm 6'2" so I didn't really have room for sliders or a bracket, hence why I mounted it straight to the floor.
#16
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Stock rails raise the seat a good 1", +/-.25", and that's a big difference. Also, I have no real proof, but I don't think stock rails are the safest for racing seats, I'm not sure I'd trust the slider to stay put in an accident. They're also a pain to deal with, the rear holes are hidden and very hard to access.
#17
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Just to add to the downsides of the stock sliders: my brother's can only be adjusted a few clicks before the seat rubs the tunnel and can't move anymore.
My driver's side is almost done. I'll take pictures when it is finally in though because I have no idea what I'm doing.
My driver's side is almost done. I'll take pictures when it is finally in though because I have no idea what I'm doing.
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