ITT you will teach me to corner balance my car & I might not hurt you
04-28-2011, 04:28 PM
#81
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 119
Total Cats: -3
Holy S!
NFW would I pay that. ~$150-200 gets me aligned & corner balanced, to my specs, with me in the car. Plenty of discussion about it too, if I want, including a review of previous setups I've run.
Takes a couple of hours to do it with a lift, turn plates on tables, and John Beam setup, can't imagine how long it would take at home . I've spoken to racers who have spent an entire weekend with strings, and only ended up tired, po'd, and unsure of their setup.
NFW would I pay that. ~$150-200 gets me aligned & corner balanced, to my specs, with me in the car. Plenty of discussion about it too, if I want, including a review of previous setups I've run.
Takes a couple of hours to do it with a lift, turn plates on tables, and John Beam setup, can't imagine how long it would take at home . I've spoken to racers who have spent an entire weekend with strings, and only ended up tired, po'd, and unsure of their setup.
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04-29-2011, 01:35 PM
#82
Hustler, the money you are talking about for alignments and corner balance seem way out of line. My local racing shop charges $250 for an alignment and corner balance. He's a Miata guru and nationals caliber racer. Like jdmitrswapped infered, talk to a few spec miata guys and find who they go to. You may find a racer who works on cars to support his racing habit.
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04-29-2011, 03:00 PM
#83
Just an experience regarding CW that might help someone.
After reading up on the JD SM setup guide I made some tests two years ago with adjusting CW between races to fix things (starting from a skewed CW, cheep as I am).
The starting behavior was OS in left an US in right corners.
Solution; lower the pressure on the LF-RR diagonal and to do so the RR was easiest to access (i.e. lowering that corner a bit)
Result; a more balanced setup but not ok
More of the same made the balance tip over so I did something right (It was free at least)
After that experience I have not been scared to mess with the spring perches at any time if I feel it would benefit my balance (and laptimes).
Last race 2010 I had (due to poor preparations) US going right (on a track with only one lefthand corner..). This time I raised the RR instead (since I wanted more grip in front in total with the help of the roll centers).
The result was not optimal but i manage to raise the exit speed on the corner onto the straight quite a bit.
Having a 50.0% CW is just a starting point, make markings and notations so you can adjust to what the car is telling you. You can adjust back to the 50% before you go home again. That way you could reduce the number of times you need the balances (sure, you need them whenever you change springs/dampers/alignment, but not that necessary for at track CW adjustments)
By chance (or logic, I don't care
) the facts is pretty easy to remember, lower (which means lower the load) the corner where you want more grip, exactly like with rake (lower the end where you want more grip).
Add the dampers, springs and rollbars to the logic; Soften/lower the corner/end where you want more grip (lowering the load on the corner can be called soften, so it's just one word actually).
After reading up on the JD SM setup guide I made some tests two years ago with adjusting CW between races to fix things (starting from a skewed CW, cheep as I am).
The starting behavior was OS in left an US in right corners.
Solution; lower the pressure on the LF-RR diagonal and to do so the RR was easiest to access (i.e. lowering that corner a bit)
Result; a more balanced setup but not ok
More of the same made the balance tip over so I did something right (It was free at least)
After that experience I have not been scared to mess with the spring perches at any time if I feel it would benefit my balance (and laptimes).
Last race 2010 I had (due to poor preparations) US going right (on a track with only one lefthand corner..). This time I raised the RR instead (since I wanted more grip in front in total with the help of the roll centers).
The result was not optimal but i manage to raise the exit speed on the corner onto the straight quite a bit.
Having a 50.0% CW is just a starting point, make markings and notations so you can adjust to what the car is telling you. You can adjust back to the 50% before you go home again. That way you could reduce the number of times you need the balances (sure, you need them whenever you change springs/dampers/alignment, but not that necessary for at track CW adjustments)
By chance (or logic, I don't care
) the facts is pretty easy to remember, lower (which means lower the load) the corner where you want more grip, exactly like with rake (lower the end where you want more grip).Add the dampers, springs and rollbars to the logic; Soften/lower the corner/end where you want more grip (lowering the load on the corner can be called soften, so it's just one word actually).
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