Miata cooling system thread - Page 22 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Race Prep Miata race-only chat.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-02-2015, 05:11 PM   #421
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland (left coast)
Posts: 214
Total Cats: 2
Default

Hell of a first post! I like the idea below and you have given me some ideas of what to approach next for ducting, so thank you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by millsj View Post

One of my goals was to have the ducting be completely independent of the plastic undertray.
tazswing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2015, 05:17 PM   #422
Newb
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3
Total Cats: 2
Default

Glad to help and give back a little since I have learned a lot over here in the ducting and aero threads. Let me know if you want any additional pics. I have many.

I forgot to post this pic. You can see where the side pieces attach using one of the OEM bolts (circled) and how the ~1" 90 degree bend sits against the radiator (arrow).

Attached Thumbnails
Miata cooling system thread-80-p1080731_4ce31aed546fd4ef8ef1e5a096e505f79c69bc33.jpg  
millsj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2015, 05:18 PM   #423
Newb
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3
Total Cats: 2
Default

Opps! Wrong word....long day.

I haven't driven with it on the track yet, so I don't know how it is going to work, but it has to be better than no ducting. The car does run cooler on the street.
millsj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2015, 01:00 PM   #424
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brownsburg,IN
Posts: 731
Total Cats: 53
Default

Here are some temperature loggs i made last year when i got my car running, settup is a little different than most turboed cars with a dyi coolant re-route 55mm koyo rad, w/a ic that uses the oem rad core as a water cooling heat exchanger, the car has ac installed but not running on theese logs.
First charts are on the dyno:

On the street for the first 1/4 chart then on the Freeway
Attached Thumbnails
Miata cooling system thread-ef15197b-95d8-4e59-9c93-1c3eefed53fa.jpg   Miata cooling system thread-d51ad0c0-ef93-494c-a828-686208c4b730.jpg  
HHammerly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2015, 08:39 AM   #425
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Hagerstown, MD
Posts: 140
Total Cats: 0
Default

What is a correctly sized radiator for a detuned 1.6 m45 PTE car:
  • Stock pulleys
  • 93 octane
  • FMIC
  • Ducting
  • Hood Vent
  • Coolant Reroute

Supermiata Crossflow? CSF? Either one? Is the Crossflow just lighter?

Is the installed vertical envelope on either of these taller than stock? I have an over-the-radiator intercooler setup so vertical space is an issue...
ericwh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2015, 06:38 PM   #426
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland (left coast)
Posts: 214
Total Cats: 2
Default

I'm assuming a gap between the hood and "bumper" of the car of this magnitude is not helping cooling:

Attached Thumbnails
Miata cooling system thread-20150915_135446_zpsqbykvyr9.jpeg  
tazswing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2015, 06:40 PM   #427
Murderator
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 33,801
Total Cats: 2,116
Default

I never did understand why mazda made that gap so disgustingly large
at first I thought it was from mis-aligned panels on the car, but that is not the case
18psi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2015, 06:52 PM   #428
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland (left coast)
Posts: 214
Total Cats: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I never did understand why mazda made that gap so disgustingly large
at first I thought it was from mis-aligned panels on the car, but that is not the case
Based on what I have read here it seems adding air flow through that gap would pressurize under the hood and negate, to some degree, the hood vents?

Anyhow, I am going to get some weather stripping or something and see if I notice a general temp drop at speed.
tazswing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2015, 10:10 PM   #429
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,845
Total Cats: 559
Default

By the time the air hits that gap, it is low pressure. I doubt troubling yourself to do something there is worthwhile.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2015, 05:41 AM   #430
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Mobius's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,826
Total Cats: 222
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
By the time the air hits that gap, it is low pressure. I doubt troubling yourself to do something there is worthwhile.
This would be interesting to properly instrument. My personal experience, with an NB2, is that there is airflow through that gap into the engine bay. During pollen season I would notice a lot coming through there. I ran weatherstrip along the bottom of the hood to seal it off. It's a 15 minute job to fix it. Use black rtv; the weatherstripping glue can't handle the environment.
Mobius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2015, 06:33 AM   #431
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,367
Total Cats: 56
Default

Taping that up (and the gaps to the fenders) reduces the fluttering of the hood at speed (whatever that means).
But I have no gaps that are even close to stock after the many "adjustments" to the bumper location.

It does not have to be strong tape, using masking tape (in the right color of course) enables corner workers to open it to fight engine fire.
NiklasFalk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2015, 10:59 AM   #432
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,845
Total Cats: 559
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobius View Post
My personal experience, with an NB2, is that there is airflow through that gap into the engine bay. During pollen season I would notice a lot coming through there.
So much for guessing.

Some painter's tape across that gap like Niklas mentioned would be a super-quick test.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2015, 11:22 AM   #433
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland (left coast)
Posts: 214
Total Cats: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Some painter's tape across that gap like Niklas mentioned would be a super-quick test.
Agreed. I am sure a blue stripe across the front will help to intimidate all the GTRs and get point-bys!
tazswing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 09:15 PM   #434
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland (left coast)
Posts: 214
Total Cats: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NiklasFalk View Post
Taping that up
Simple blue tape, just between headlights on the hood gap.

About -10F water temps
About +10F intake temps.
tazswing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 09:17 PM   #435
Destroyer of Inconel
iTrader: (37)
 
EO2K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: In ur driveway, abusin' ur WPA
Posts: 9,038
Total Cats: 809
Default

Thats more than I would have expected, for both actually.

I need another hood to cut up for some vents.
EO2K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 09:28 PM   #436
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland (left coast)
Posts: 214
Total Cats: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Thats more than I would have expected, for both actually.

I need another hood to cut up for some vents.
I agree.
tazswing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 10:17 PM   #437
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
 
patsmx5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 8,153
Total Cats: 143
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tazswing View Post
Simple blue tape, just between headlights on the hood gap.

About -10F water temps
About +10F intake temps.
I have a NB, and my CAI is going to the bumper (in progress now). I'll do this test and post results when I get mine off jackstands and back on the road. Any extra engine cooling is always welcomed.
patsmx5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2015, 10:55 PM   #438
Supporting Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 271
Total Cats: 15
Default

With most of the engine heat in the cylinder head, it would seem to be the place to start when trying to stay cool in a stressful environment. When asked to make something that would cruise 100 miles flat out at 140+, pumping freshly cooled water straight to the head looked like a possible answer.

We used four inlets created just below each exhaust port, a 20 gpm electric pump and a second radiator.

Thermostats at both ends. The rear Tstat and the 4 ports are routed to the 2nd rad. Coolant was allowed to mingle once inside the engine.

The 2nd rad was placed infront of the stock rad position and as high up as possible. The frontal area of #2 was 70% of #1. #1 was replaced with a 2.0" cross flow.

Ducts and baffles everywhere. On the sides, of course, but the key was a baffle from the bottom of the #2 (the add on) to the top of #1 about 5 inches behind, thus avoiding the use of the air stream twice. A panel from the lower edge of #2, going forward, served as the top of a duct beneath #2, to gather air for the #1 guy sitting in the original position. The area of this duct is about 1/5 the frontal area of rad 1.

All measurements we could apply, plus some real hard driving, suggests it worked well.

corky
Corky Bell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2015, 11:17 PM   #439
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 315
Total Cats: 39
Default

Wow, that sounds quite complex. Also, sounds like this solution added 40 lbs to the nose of the car with all that extra water weight, cooling hoses, radiators, multiple thermostats, a second pump, and mounting provisions for all of this.

Definitely not the KISS approach to cooling, seems like there is now more than twice the components and connections to fail.
Dustin1824 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2015, 01:27 AM   #440
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Mobius's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,826
Total Cats: 222
Default

Interesting. I know Texas is a big state but I'm curious as to where 140 for 100 can be done.

Also I'm curious as to flow within the engine now. Stock, we have one high pressure source (the water pump); from there everything flows "downhill", so to speak, to the radiator, into one low-pressure intake (the water pump). No eddies are possible. With this configuration there are now five high pressure sources, and two low pressure intakes. How do you prevent / know you don't have any stagnant high-temp eddies?

Was the 140 for 100 attempted and failed previously with a conventional (possibly supersized) cooling approach?
Mobius is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Prepping my '95 for track asmasm Build Threads 82 05-26-2016 04:37 PM
1997 Miata Misty_Miata pineda92 Meet and Greet 4 09-20-2015 09:22 PM
Mystery Engine Trouble. Halp, mt.net! vehicular General Miata Chat 12 09-14-2015 03:17 PM
WTB parts for HPDE car Voltwings WTB 5 09-11-2015 08:23 AM
Drummersrs old Miata, new to me foshizzle Meet and Greet 9 09-08-2015 12:26 PM


Tags
crossflow, overheat, reroute, spec miata wisdom, supermiata

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:11 AM.