thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

Do you guys not have good radiators? Are you guys using the supermiata cross flow or the TSE radiator?

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

I am planning on cutting out the center of mine and replacing it with a steel hoop that follows the curve of the nose. I realize that it may result in worse damage but there are tons of guys with other makes running damn near complete tube front ends so that kind of stuff isn't a new river to cross.

EDIT: Correct, I am running a shitty mishimoto with the dual fan shroud. My nose modifications are mainly so that I can run the oil cooler tucked in there.

kamel6k

Wouldn't air still have problems passing above the IC with the oil cooler in that position?

This are my ideas:

Left, how it is right now, midle is tilted, right is flushed with condenser.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I'm using the SuperMiata with a condensor and intercooler in the way. It would cycle on the highway, but I don't know if that was from a coolant leak I just fixed, or always as been and will be the case. I've just ditched the FM fans for a single 12" due to amp draw. I seriously need a crash course in ducting. I was thinking about getting a PWM fan controller to allow it to self regulate between 60-100% instead of on/off

Even with hood vents, it's a warm car. Always has been. Oil even, 240°F cruising on the highway.

I'm still unsure how I want to run the oil cooler (or where)

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Jesus... If I get done with everything an I still can't cruise with the a/c on without overheating (needle getting to 3/4) I swear I will part the MF'er out. I am that frustrated. It almost makes me want to just throw in the towel thinking about it.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Yes, I'm running the 5mph plastic bumper support piece.

Chiburbian, I seem to be doing a lot better than you are cooling-wise with the Stage 1. Here are details on my custom air-guide/ducting: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...8/#post1244564. For DD, it works well-enough even when temperatures exceed 100F. I see about 220F on 100F days using AC -- warm but adequate (interestingly, you would never know you were running that warm based on the OEM gauge). On this morning's commute, I settled at 205F with outside temperature of 80F while using AC due to humidity.

Current setup:
FAB9 Stage 1
OEM Condenser with JEGS high-performance fan in pusher configuration -- wired to come on with AC
Koyo Hyper-V 37mm
OEM Radiator Fan
Tru-Cool (Racer Parts Wholesale) 48 row mounted on OEM AC Fan mounting pads
Custom air guide
OEM undertray
TrackDog Racing Top Cover

I'd like to improve cooling for occasional track use though. I really have to baby this car on track unless it's cold out. Considering:
1. CSX is coming out with a combined radiator/oil cooler marketed through Jackson Racing. That will be a nice packaging solution I think. Will let me restore the OEM AC Fan and remove the JEGS pusher fan on the condenser. My theory is that this will reduce my stack and improve fan performance.
2. Outlet vents. I may do an A/B test on venting the OEM undertray per TDR's recommendation. I also got a set of Singular Hood Vents, but haven't had the heart to cut my hood yet.

kamel6k

O believe he isn't running an oil cooler.

Even with A/C on, i haven't problem's with street driving, and here we have +40ºc days (104F)

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You could make some ducting to direct more mouth air round the sides of the IC. Like ducting in front of the IC.

greddygalant

iTrader: (3)

I don't have the plastic bumper piece at all, it's ducted ok 4 sides from the IC to the radiator, I think you guys may have nailed it, the IC is so close to the mouth and it's so dense that it blocks flow. I'm wondering if I can just move it back further and then duct it from the mouth of the bunper.

kamel6k

Don't know if fab9 mounts are exactly the same, but here you can see what we are talking about:

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

Wow.

I hope I won't have that problem. I have the supermiata crossflow, M-Tuned reroute, A/C, TDR intercooler, TSE oil cooler... we'll see. The TDR intercooler and oil cooler come with really good ducting, all i have to do is rivet it together.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Time for a SADFab v-mount/front bumper frame replacement solution.

dr_boone

iTrader: (1)

Do you think removing the plastic bumper helps. Mine looks similar to the pics above with a super Miata cross flow and reroute. I don't feel like I'm getting enough fresh air to the top half of the radiator and the bottom half is going though the IC. I have A/C also on an NB. Mine runs hotter cruising on the highway than stop and go in town.

kamel6k

You can (barely) see in the (crapy) pictures that even removing the plastic bumper, the metal front peace behing it is restricting more (goes further back) than the interior plastic bumper.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I'm tempted to remove that plastic bumper just to try.



Does anyone have any experience with the Miatacage Radiator Grill insert? Can't tell if this is generation specific but it looks NB in the photos. Anyone want to stencil out some sheet metal for NA? SADFab?
Miatacage.com. Radiator Grill Insert Panels

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

But opening up a flow path will allow air to travel under higher pressure. Perhaps the front bumper mouth needs to be opened up as well from the top (hidden to normal view)

dr_boone

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking that myself but my bumper cover is new with fresh paint. I haven't been willing to bust out the sawzall yet.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Maybe just a small dremel will do.

kamel6k

I was thinking, after move the IC further back and moving the dryer to the front of the IC keeping it vertigal (i think i found someone to make me custom pipes), moving horn's away, etc., to make aditional ducting, green on the sketch. Red ar rubber seals.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I'm seeing some problems here. There needs to be plenty of room between the intercooler and metal crossbar or you won't get enough air to the radiator. Mine overheated at only 6psi when there was a tiny 1in gap between them. I lowered the intercooler and tilted it rearward, still leaving room between it and the condenser. and was rewarded with much more cooling headroom for many more psi. Jamming the IC up against the opening is like stuffing a giant sock in the bumper mouth. Yeah, it can breathe, but just barely. And the IC is a less critical heat exchanger than the radiator, so don't rob from the radiator.

If you cut the rear underside of the black plastic bumper support in front of the metal crossbar it will open up additional flow from the topside of the mouth opening, over the metal crossbar, and to the top of the radiator. It is already designed for air to travel that way from the factory but a little extra trimming in a place nobody sees can open up many additional square inches of flow path.

Removing the black plastic bumper support entirely presents a couple of problems. It actually aids in holding up the bumper cover and the bumper cover will sag unless other provisions are engineered. Additionally, it would open up a detrimental flow path for air to enter the bumper mouth and then go left or right towards the wheel wells without traveling through the radiator.

An additional note, the bumper mouth is not sealed around the black plastic bumper support from the factory. If you have not taken steps to seal the topside of the bumper support to the bumper cover (towards the center of the car from the turn signals on an NA) and all of the other little paths seldom discussed here, you aren't really sealed properly. That opening near the turn signals is about 2 inches high and 4 inches deep as it tapers. Lots of air can move toward the lower pressure areas of the wheelwells within that fascia and bumper support structure. I am using cut pieces of upholstery foam wedged into the caverns and crevices, as well as aluminum foil tape where appropriate. I'm sure there are far more elegant solutions, but it is sufficient for little ol' me.