hustler

iTrader: (6)

I cut the humps off the the rear seat mounts and gained about 2" of headroom.

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

+1 Feel like I'm driving a Vette because I can't see all of the hood anymore.

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

you mean you cut the humps out of the floor? or cut the bent tabs on the end of the stock mounts to use for your race seat?

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

Actually cut the rear humps out of the floor. There is ample metal underneath them. Take your time and don't cut more than you have to.
***Edit - Our seats have custom brackets made for mounting. You're welcome Hustler

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

willing to snap a picture when you get a chance? i might be interested in cutting the floor. so the hump is actually a separate layer of metal on top of a separate layer of flat metal floorboard? i want to get as low as I can to stay safe on the street. my head is right in front of the bar right now.

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

I'll see if I have any pics... or get you one. Yes, they are two separate pieces which create a cavity.

Disaster

iTrader: (1)

Curious what you mean by "bent tabs on end of stock mounts." I'm looking to put in a seat mostly for headroom, but I don't want to carve up the floor (want to be able to go easily back to stock.)

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

We cut the humps out of our racecar too. Driver is well over 6'. Bent the rear tabs flat and used some backing plates underneath the car to bolt it down.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I can't see over the dash either, lol. I think that's why so many people jack with me and they're surprised to see a former Mr. Universe unload to break them over my knee.

jbrown7815

iTrader: (1)

rigidbigelsworth

iTrader: (3)

disaster: i was thinking of just cutting the bent ends of the stock sliders to attach to universal mounts in order to utilize the stock mounting location. dunno if thats possible, i just thought thats what he meant

Rrrracer

Here's a picture of a rear seat mount nub on the passenger side... driver side is similar.

http://picasaweb.google.com/10424768...37066235936482

There's two ways to do it...

1) you can drill out the spot welds, remove the entire piece and then figure out how to seal up the holes.

2) you can cut the nubs out with your preferred tool of choice, leaving the flat welded part of the metal that's already against the body intact. I like to use a 6" deathwheel and an air powered reciprocating saw here, followed up with a grinding wheel to get it flush/remove sharp edges.

Hope this helps!

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Bringing this back up from the dead. I want to redo my seat mounts.

My Sparco Sprint V has 4 M8 (iirc) bolts that hold it to any sort of rail, are these even thick enough...it is a FIA approved seat. Another option I would consider is to remove the stock seat mount humps and bolt the seat directly through the floor with M8 grade8 bolts and backing plates. It just seems a bit odd that the Sparco would have such small bolts while the stock seat is bolted in with something like 7/16" bolts.

Is something like this safe (found on CR)? I would probably add two pieces of steel across the floor to connect both sides if the notch is acceptable.

alik

iTrader: (3)

That looks like what my Spec builder had done on my seats.

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

dgmorr - I would prefer to see Cold-rolled steel used instead of hot-rolled. Cold rolled will not crack when bending and no need for relief cut to be welded back together. It is a good idea to box the two together with cross bracing as you mentioned. Then it becomes one piece instead of two trying to do the same job.

Nate99

This. It should be fine with the weld, but it's definitely better to form it without notching it first, where possible.

Edit: BTW, thanks for the pics, dgmorr. That last one is a pretty clear illustration of what I'd eventually like to do.

falcon

iTrader: (13)

My seat is mounted with a custom rail. It's as low and as far back as you can physically put a side mount with the humps still there. I can stick about 5 sheets of paper between the carpet and the bottom of the seat. The seat won't go further back because it will interfere with the bolts to the humps and the roll bar. I don't think cutting the humps would really get me any more height substantial enough to be worth it. But I can swap my stock seats in and out which is nice.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

In an effort to do as little work as possible installing my seats, I ran across this:

http://www.wedgeengineering.net/HOME...6/Default.aspx

You can give them the car and the type of seat and they will fab the bracket. They also apparently make the sliders that the seat companies sell with their seats. I'm getting a quote on a set to fit my buddy clubs.

And also came across this:

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-0555.html

http://www.good-win-racing.com/mazda...61-0555PA.html

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Post up a quote if you get one.

I've seen those good-win mounts, they're good if you are the correct height for the holes they already have drilled. They look like they'd be too close to the wheel in my car. 949Racing has posted pics of a mount they're working on, looks very good.

In the mean time, I've sent this off to a water jet to see how well they work. I'll post pics when I get them back.
http://www.projecttrackday.com/?p=1089

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Man, that is exactly what I am looking for. If you need a minimum quantity to run, then let me know. I need a driver and passenger side. The sets I see around are for bottom mount seats, then you have to spend another $50 for side mounts, and you still have to do fab work. No Thanks, this is the ticket.