Seats
07-27-2011, 05:49 PM
#101
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
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It does help. Thank you. I've been on the fence about this. There were some used Kirkeys I talked to a guy about but couldn't quite pull the trigger on.
Is everybody using seat back bracing on the aluminum seats? If so, do you have pics handy? Thanks.
Is everybody using seat back bracing on the aluminum seats? If so, do you have pics handy? Thanks.
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07-27-2011, 06:00 PM
#104
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Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 638
Total Cats: 76
I'm running the Ultra Shield Rally's in mine. 16" driver, 17" passenger. (measure yourself) both in 10* leans. I'm pretty sure the 20* would have pushed my seat too far forward for my legs to fit. They are mounted to steel straps the are bolted to the factory front mount and through the floor at the rear.
I ordered mine early last year and they both have the bolster under the thigh. Had to do some bending of the drivers shoulder and head area to fit and I removed my factory rear mounts. I'm 6'2" 190 lbs with a 34" inseam. Mounting them this way gives me 2 inches of "broom stick" clearance. I still need to add seat back braces.
I drive this car on the street quite a bit also, it's surprisingly comfortable but is a bit harsh for long rides (look up the memory foam mod, I've heard it helps a ton)
Call Jack at Ultra Shield, he was great to deal with.
As a side note, I have one 5 point from them ordered with the shoulder and buckle pads, IMO they make the harness LESS comfortable, the shoulders rub the sides of my neck and the buckle pad is HUGE and kinda pointless. Save the cash.
Sorry for the late reply. hope this helps!
I ordered mine early last year and they both have the bolster under the thigh. Had to do some bending of the drivers shoulder and head area to fit and I removed my factory rear mounts. I'm 6'2" 190 lbs with a 34" inseam. Mounting them this way gives me 2 inches of "broom stick" clearance. I still need to add seat back braces.
I drive this car on the street quite a bit also, it's surprisingly comfortable but is a bit harsh for long rides (look up the memory foam mod, I've heard it helps a ton)
Call Jack at Ultra Shield, he was great to deal with.
As a side note, I have one 5 point from them ordered with the shoulder and buckle pads, IMO they make the harness LESS comfortable, the shoulders rub the sides of my neck and the buckle pad is HUGE and kinda pointless. Save the cash.
Sorry for the late reply. hope this helps!
I don't suppose you have any pictures of your mounting solution do you? I'm going to order up some bar stock to start on the bracket. I am waffling back and forth between how to mount up the back of the seat. I know that I am going to remove the humps from the back but I can't figure out how I'm going to attach the back of the seat.
IE:
Half bracket for the front mounting to the stock gussets and holes and bolt through the back of the seat to the floor boards. so Seat -> Floor
Or
Full bracket system made out of 1" x 3mm (minimum) steel straps welding into a box shape. so Seat-> Bracket -> Floor
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07-27-2011, 06:25 PM
#105
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 66
Total Cats: 0
I don't suppose you have any pictures of your mounting solution do you? I'm going to order up some bar stock to start on the bracket. I am waffling back and forth between how to mount up the back of the seat. I know that I am going to remove the humps from the back but I can't figure out how I'm going to attach the back of the seat.
IE:
Half bracket for the front mounting to the stock gussets and holes and bolt through the back of the seat to the floor boards. so Seat -> Floor
Or
Full bracket system made out of 1" x 3mm (minimum) steel straps welding into a box shape. so Seat-> Bracket -> Floor
IE:
Half bracket for the front mounting to the stock gussets and holes and bolt through the back of the seat to the floor boards. so Seat -> Floor
Or
Full bracket system made out of 1" x 3mm (minimum) steel straps welding into a box shape. so Seat-> Bracket -> Floor
I bought I/O Port seat back braces, they are designed to clamp to your roll bar and are adjustable too. Unfortunately the diagonal of my Auto power bar interferes with them so I'm looking to mount them to the rear deck. The seats are still very stiff with just the floor mount but I do understand the need to brace the backs. It's a requirement for many organizations even for HPDE's or Club Races. Check with the guys you run with for their req's.
I'll work on pictures for you. Just another thought, with the seats mounted this way I had to remove the arm rest on the door(strap mod) and the seating position's very low in the car. Awesome for the track but just on the edge of comfortable on the street (tough to see/blind spots) Maybe figure out if you can keep the rear mounts and bolt in the factory seat for the street. Just an after thought.
With this set up I teched fine at Roebling Road. the shoulders of this seat are great for high G turns!
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07-27-2011, 07:20 PM
#107
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 66
Total Cats: 0
pics
Broom stick, Good one of the front of the set up (pulled off the cover)
The other is to show the location or the rear bolt.
To set it up was really trial and error and I had to bend the top of the seat a bit because of the total rake (sits like a bucket seat)but all the marks are covered. I used the front factory holes as the start and tried to keep all the mount holes as far from each other as possible to distribute stresses. Like I said, I still need to figure out a back brace mount.
The seat is fixed and non-adjustable so when my wife drives we put in a "butt adapter." It's a full length lawn chair pad, boosts her up and closer to the wheel and pedals but doesn't interfere with the harness.
Just to clarify, there is a total of 4 bolts from the seat to the bar stock and then 4 from the bar stock through the floor.
Remember, I'm just a home tinkerer. I made this as safely as I could but it has never been impact tested. I have run this set up for 5 HPDE weekends with two drivers (hot swapping classes) and I street drive this car everything still feels nice and stable. Once strapped in, you have the "one with the car" feeling (some say too tight). Again, this has never been impact tested and I take no liability for it's performance/protection. Use this idea at your own risk.
The other is to show the location or the rear bolt.
To set it up was really trial and error and I had to bend the top of the seat a bit because of the total rake (sits like a bucket seat)but all the marks are covered. I used the front factory holes as the start and tried to keep all the mount holes as far from each other as possible to distribute stresses. Like I said, I still need to figure out a back brace mount.
The seat is fixed and non-adjustable so when my wife drives we put in a "butt adapter." It's a full length lawn chair pad, boosts her up and closer to the wheel and pedals but doesn't interfere with the harness.
Just to clarify, there is a total of 4 bolts from the seat to the bar stock and then 4 from the bar stock through the floor.
Remember, I'm just a home tinkerer. I made this as safely as I could but it has never been impact tested. I have run this set up for 5 HPDE weekends with two drivers (hot swapping classes) and I street drive this car everything still feels nice and stable. Once strapped in, you have the "one with the car" feeling (some say too tight). Again, this has never been impact tested and I take no liability for it's performance/protection. Use this idea at your own risk.
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07-27-2011, 07:41 PM
#108
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 638
Total Cats: 76
I used 1" mild steel bar stock. they start at the factory front mount points. I used them because the mounts help rake the whole seat backwards. The mount straps go well past the back of the seat, almost to the bulkhead. I removed the factory seat mounts, again this help rake the seat back a bit more. I used grade * fasteners and BIG fender washers on the back side of the floor to distribute any forces. I didn't box anything just used thick bar stock.
I bought I/O Port seat back braces, they are designed to clamp to your roll bar and are adjustable too. Unfortunately the diagonal of my Auto power bar interferes with them so I'm looking to mount them to the rear deck. The seats are still very stiff with just the floor mount but I do understand the need to brace the backs. It's a requirement for many organizations even for HPDE's or Club Races. Check with the guys you run with for their req's.
I'll work on pictures for you. Just another thought, with the seats mounted this way I had to remove the arm rest on the door(strap mod) and the seating position's very low in the car. Awesome for the track but just on the edge of comfortable on the street (tough to see/blind spots) Maybe figure out if you can keep the rear mounts and bolt in the factory seat for the street. Just an after thought.
With this set up I teched fine at Roebling Road. the shoulders of this seat are great for high G turns!
I bought I/O Port seat back braces, they are designed to clamp to your roll bar and are adjustable too. Unfortunately the diagonal of my Auto power bar interferes with them so I'm looking to mount them to the rear deck. The seats are still very stiff with just the floor mount but I do understand the need to brace the backs. It's a requirement for many organizations even for HPDE's or Club Races. Check with the guys you run with for their req's.
I'll work on pictures for you. Just another thought, with the seats mounted this way I had to remove the arm rest on the door(strap mod) and the seating position's very low in the car. Awesome for the track but just on the edge of comfortable on the street (tough to see/blind spots) Maybe figure out if you can keep the rear mounts and bolt in the factory seat for the street. Just an after thought.
With this set up I teched fine at Roebling Road. the shoulders of this seat are great for high G turns!
It sounds like your idea is just about on par with what I was thinking. I am still thinking I'm going to box mine out for piece of mind any way. I was also considering using a piece of 90 degree angle to box out the front part so I've got a place to attach the sub belts when that time comes. Still sorta thinking this all through. I do however think the rear mounts have to come off to give myself head room.
I'm going to use moti@blackbirdfab for a 6 point roll bar with door bars. Luckily I just finished my custom door card project to allow room for the door bars and it also had the added effect of more room for my fat ***. (see pic below, pic doesn't show it but there is no armrest anymore) I probably should just have him mount the seat for me but where's the fun in that.
At any rate thanks again. If you get the pictures great if not your description has worked very well for visualizing it. On the subject how's the wrench access to your rear mounting bolts with the seat in? For a brief time I considered actually tack welding a bolt onto the bar stock so I could just deal with a wrench on one side when installing and un-installing.
door cards
edit: saw your post after the fact. Thanks again for the pictures and more descriptions. I think it's time to get this seat ordered and get this project started.
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07-27-2011, 07:54 PM
#109
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 66
Total Cats: 0
Looking at your doors, you're an NB (great looking finish btw.) IIRC NB have alot more room then the NAs cockpit. The access to the rear bolts isn't bad, wrench on the inside and a socket under the car makes quick work of it. As far as the harness goes, the shoulders are roll bar mounted, I used the factory seat belt mounts for the laps and mounted the sub per the instructions in the same way I mounted the bar stock.
I think built not bought is always better as long as it's done properly!
Glad I could help,good luck!
I think built not bought is always better as long as it's done properly!
Glad I could help,good luck!
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08-12-2011, 11:18 PM
#114
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
Posts: 460
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IIRC you can modify the stock brackets to mount Starts. I had a Momo T-Frame at one point though and I was unimpressed. Just didn't fit me well and was uncomfortable.
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10-15-2011, 10:42 AM
#117
Anyone have any thoughts on these side mount brackets. it doesn't seem like it is going to get much easier, or cheaper. $150 for two sets, and they bolt to stock sliders. I plan on placing the order Monday.
http://www.pitgarage.net/miata.html
http://www.pitgarage.net/miata.html
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10-15-2011, 11:29 PM
#118
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 75
Total Cats: 0
Sparco Evo 2 Plus
Removed stock seat humps
Cut trans tunnel and welded in L shaped piece of steel for clearance of inner-seat bracket
Used Sparco side mount brackets bolted directly through floorboard
Trimmed the left edge of the seat w/ a grinder so it would clear the door bar
Removed stock seat humps
Cut trans tunnel and welded in L shaped piece of steel for clearance of inner-seat bracket
Used Sparco side mount brackets bolted directly through floorboard
Trimmed the left edge of the seat w/ a grinder so it would clear the door bar
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10-16-2011, 12:04 AM
#119
Anyone have any thoughts on these side mount brackets. it doesn't seem like it is going to get much easier, or cheaper. $150 for two sets, and they bolt to stock sliders. I plan on placing the order Monday.
http://www.pitgarage.net/miata.html
http://www.pitgarage.net/miata.html
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