2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

Good find, this design has great possibilities. Do happen to know what BMW's to look at in the junk yard to find it on?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yes, anything with the S62 engine. So v8 E39 M5s and Z8s. But its plastic thats in the engine bay and only costs $45 new. Just buy a new one.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Little more restrictive than that. 98-03 M5 (20,482 worldwide) and 00-03 Z8 (5703 total). They also came in some Ascari supercars. You'll probably never find one in a junkyard. And if you do, "Oh, it's a part off of that M5? $100."

They're cheap new. Saw $38 + Shipping. Would love to see a cross section to see how easy it'd be to fab one up.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Google it, someone cut one in half. Also google the crawford can x-ray and cut in half. They're similar.

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

The 2JZ must have a better oil drain back system from the head than the NB does. Although there is a sight glass on the catch can, I haven't seen anything on the sight glass in over 5000+ miles on the engine. The reasoning for getting vacuum from the turbo inlet is to try to simulate the vacuum generated by a dry sump system (10 - 15 inches of vac) according to my research, which equates to engine efficiency, which leads to horsepower.
Yeah, there is probably a little tiny bit of oil vapor getting through. So I added some pre-turbo water/meth which will probably clean any residue off.

I have a different turbo and exhaust in the works for the winter project. What size and how far down the down pipe should the slash be installed? Although the gasses are going by the slash very fast, I thought Jason measured some surprisingly high (15-20+psi) in the down pipe that would not support this as a good location?

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

Crap, I thought they would be on more "average" BMW stuff. A lot of the junk yards around here have stupid pricing on stuff. This time of year you wear big baggy coats to the yard anyway.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

I posted a link to the Crawford Xray and Cutaway on the last page. Looked easy enough to fab.



Pfft. I wonder if that's crap from cutting it in half, or a textured surface to help catch oil.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

I haven't had the pleasure to take apart a miata block yet but how big is the oil passage connecting the head to the oil pan area?

IMO calling it a balance tube is fairly accurate as it balances the pressure between the valve cover and the oil pan. That said why do you want it to be balanced?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Normally you have balance tubes between 2 heads on v or boxer engines to balance them. On Jeff's setup the "balance tube" is basically just letting the crank case gases get to the head without having to fight against the oil trying to drain back to the block. I guess it lets him pull that air out through the baffles in the valve cover without it potentially slowing the flow of the oil draining from the head.

When I do mine, if I end up with gallons of oil in that catch can, I'll try running it more like jeffs and see if that makes a difference.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Well if its just a tube that goes to the oil pan why even worry about a catch can on it?

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Use the BMW part to be the balance chamber like 2manyhobyz has it between his drilled hole and the valve cover, with the vent port to the particulate filter, to the coalescing filter, then to an intake slashcut? Skip the exhaust slashcut entirely? Then PCV>Check Valve>Intake?

Edit: Or BMW part between the front block hole to the valve cover breather.

I mean, why mess with risking pulling oil in the turbo unless you're going all out. It'll pull more vacuum than the exhaust will. And if you double filter, you won't suck oil. You can upgrade to the fancy extruded housing for more volume, but it sounds like you spend some time under the hood and might not need the full oz. Besides, the clear filter will fill up before the opaque one.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

How will the pre-turbo slash cut pull more vacuum than the exhaust slash cut? The exhaust one will have about the same strength Bernoulli effect. Remember exhaust gas velocity is going to be about the same as the intake, may a touch less. Also this is a compressible flow so density matters and exhaust gas also has a lower density, which increases the effect.

I dont think the BMW part will work in the balance chamber, it requires flow velocity to really work.

Team DNR

This seems the best option to me. Also, I can see merit in exhausting any blowby from block vs cam cover as oil is draining down while gases are going up. Only thing is, I wasn't sure if this port in the 1.6 block was a breather or an oil return drain for the turbo? I've never seen a 323GTX so can't say what they actually did.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I was under the impression it was literally just a block vent, because as Bundy said, its next to the oil filter, so that would be the wrong side of the block for a turbo drain

Google generated this for the 323GTX


Jesus, how do you even get to the filter on that thing? I bet that catchcan drains into that block port

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Which filter?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

From below. Same way you get to the filter on most cars.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Oil filter
Never owned a FWD/transverse car. RWDMasterRace checking in

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Under boost the turbo inlet will pull a vacuum without any slashcut. An intake slashcut could make more vacuum by compounding the drawing effect of the low pressure zone created by the air flowing around the end of the open slashcut tube (Bernoulli's?) with the already present vacuum source (turbo). Sticking a slashcut in the exhaust relies entirely on the drawing effect of the low pressure zone, as the system is free flowing from that point on. To get the most vacuum, maybe run an oversized air inlet tube to the turbo inlet, and use a reducer coupling, and put the slashcut directly in front of the reducer, to harness the Venturi effect and Bernoulli's principal (fluid flowing through restriction increases velocity/fluid with increased velocity creates a pressure drop).

I wonder if you used a tube shaped like an airfoil, with a slit along the top, mounted in the middle of the air inlet tube, if you could pull even more vacuum than with the slashcut. Kind of like a cheap nitrous plate fogger, but with airfoil shaped tube.

I wasn't intending the BMW part to be used as it was intended at all. I'd was thinking of connecting the bottom port as a drainback to the hole behind the starter, connected to the valve cover at the top. This would give a place for oil to drain back to the crankcase if it fills up, and act as a balance chamber between the valve cover and the block to prevent oil fighting with gas in the drainback holes. You could then pull vacuum from the side of the BMW part to pull vacuum on both the block and the valve cover.

And on the FWD Protege Oil filter: That's the worst car I've ever had to change a filter on. And of course, the last time an oil change was done it was done by a quicky lube and had the filter on so tight the gasket was totally compressed.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Jeff, what did you do for fitting on that hole. I drilled and tapped mine, a straight NPT to AN fitting aint happening, the 90* looks good facing backwards. The straight might be ok if I could run the tap deeper and thread it in all the way, but the 90's still better. Still trying to decide what thread sealant to use.

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

I originally tried a straight but it wouldn't clear the starter. I went with a 45 but I think I would try a 90 because you want to come out of the hole and try to go as close to straight up as possible to make it hard for any oil to make it into the hole.



After test fitting starter, intake, and where I wanted the hose to go, I used JB Weld on the threads.