Are stainless steel brake lines worth it?
#43
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I have both the Goodridge lines and our own lines (same mfg as FM/949). Small differences, but nothing that would make me pick one over the other, aside from the the $60 cost difference by going with our lines. The big benefit of the Goodridge lines is that they're always in stock when the other ones aren't.
Our SS lines aren't on the site yet, but they are in stock (d'oh). $95 for a full 4-wheel kit, $65 for a rear kit if you've done Wilwoods already in the front.
Our SS lines aren't on the site yet, but they are in stock (d'oh). $95 for a full 4-wheel kit, $65 for a rear kit if you've done Wilwoods already in the front.
#45
Yeah, this is kind of the issue seeing how it's the fastest part of the track. We should all be able to brake way way way after the turn in marker for 14; however, our reptile brains are like "oh man, I'm going fast this is gonna hurt" because you can't see the pavement. Hence the brake super late (and use the terrain to your advantage) and just keep it on pavement; T14 is slow and you want to rimshot 15 anyways.
#48
Yeah, this is kind of the issue seeing how it's the fastest part of the track. We should all be able to brake way way way after the turn in marker for 14; however, our reptile brains are like "oh man, I'm going fast this is gonna hurt" because you can't see the pavement. Hence the brake super late (and use the terrain to your advantage) and just keep it on pavement; T14 is slow and you want to rimshot 15 anyways.
there is a few spec miata videos showing it on youtube. If you watch, they break it down into 2 hard braking zones and 1 lighter one, on the data.
hard before 14, let off a bit for slight turn-in to 14, then hard before the turn in for 14a. You gotta be comfortable AND consistent with the brakes...Which I have a difficult time with. Also probably best to do the shift between 14 and 14a.
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