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Old 11-14-2011, 05:29 PM
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I have ground clearance issues with the low engine mounting. Running low ride heights in the front, lower than 4.5", leaves me less than 2" of ground clearance to the k-member and the oil pan. At 4" I would have less than 1.5" of travel which is not enough even with 750# springs.

Agreed on the preference for moving the lower end of the knuckle outward, rather than the top of the knuckle inward.

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Old 11-14-2011, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Drop the car half an inch and watch the magic happen.

Full lock clearance with a 15x10 is a pipe dream. I would expect it to rub half a dozen things at full lock - the front bumper, the FSB, the UCA, your mom's ****, etc. We're looking for shock tower and fender clearance - the shock tower is very tight with the 10s. If I can compress to the bump stop and sweep the steering wheel 270* in either direction, then in my book it fits.
The 10's only go in 2mm further than the 9's. I was hoping all of the clearance issues would be limited to the fender side of things.

Have you checked things with the 245 installed on the 10?
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
I have ground clearance issues with the low engine mounting. Running low ride heights in the front, lower than 4.5", leaves me less than 2" of ground clearance to the k-member and the oil pan. At 4" I would have less than 1.5" of travel which is not enough even with 750# springs.

Agreed on the preference for moving the lower end of the knuckle outward, rather than the top of the knuckle inward.
That's not much spring even at 4.5" ride height and the weight of the V8. We just installed some 900lb springs and set the ride height at 4" in a friends LS1 Miata. I don't remember the oil pan clearance though.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by k24madness
The 10's only go in 2mm further than the 9's. I was hoping all of the clearance issues would be limited to the fender side of things.

Have you checked things with the 245 installed on the 10?
IIRC, ~30% of 9s rub the UCA as-is. My expectation is that ALL 10s will rub the FSB, and many will rub the UCA. This is all at full lock, though, and if you complain about your 15x10 wheels rubbing on stuff at full lock you need to re-evaluate your life priorities and perhaps take up knitting or yoga or water aerobics.

It's really hard to get good photos in our shop, so this is all I have for now. There's just no way to fit them in the front, and I've got the rear just about cleared on one side but it took a huge amount of work and looks like crap, so I ordered Autokonexion over-fenders today that add 30mm of clearance on all 4 corners. Hopefully that's enough to avoid rubbing at full bump.

They are pretty god damn sexy, though.

Attached Thumbnails Tire Pr0n-000124_hudpu_9.jpg  
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:01 PM
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Thanks for the pic Sav.

If you get a chance can you test them on your '99 rental? I have the wheels on the way, but no tires yet. Curious how fitment will be on the NBs.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
My expectation is that ALL 10s will rub the FSB, and many will rub the UCA. This is all at full lock, though.
If I am in a situation on track where the 10's rub the FSB or UCA because I am at full lock I will have bigger problems to worry about than a little bit of contact.


Originally Posted by Savington
I ordered Autokonexion over-fenders today that add 30mm of clearance on all 4 corners. Hopefully that's enough to avoid rubbing at full bump.
Welcome to my world.

I think the Autokonextion kit will be the perfect match for the 10's. I sold both sets of my 9's and will replace with 10's.
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by k24madness
We just installed some 900lb springs and set the ride height at 4" in a friends LS1 Miata. I don't remember the oil pan clearance though.
I have been seriously considering going to 900 lb springs. Dean Thomas (DTfastbear on m.n) is running 900/550 on his LS1 Miata and tried them with these tires. He was pretty pleased.

There's just no way to fit them in the front, and I've got the rear just about cleared on one side but it took a huge amount of work and looks like crap,
I just went through this myself. I did some extreme fender rolling over the weekend on the front and pulled the fenders out another 1/2" from where they were. They cleared before, barely, but now I should have plenty of room for these on 9" wheels.

That picture of the 10" wheels, now that is tire ****. So how did you get in touch with Autokonexion? I sent them an e-mail and called them twice.
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tann3r
Thanks for the pic Sav.

If you get a chance can you test them on your '99 rental? I have the wheels on the way, but no tires yet. Curious how fitment will be on the NBs.
Our rental is a '90, but Emilio threw one of the 15x10/245s on Crusher before I left on Friday. It's just as bad. On an NB you MIGHT be able to do a very extreme pull front and rear and clear them, but that's a big might.
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:03 AM
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my bad, confused trackspeed and 949racing's rentals.

Well I guess I'll have to see how much more I can roll my fenders.
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
I have been seriously considering going to 900 lb springs. Dean Thomas (DTfastbear on m.n) is running 900/550 on his LS1 Miata and tried them with these tires. He was pretty pleased.
LOL that's who I was referring to. Those were my tires we tried.

Last edited by k24madness; 11-15-2011 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by k24madness
If I am in a situation on track where the 10's rub the FSB or UCA because I am at full lock I will have bigger problems to worry about than a little bit of contact.




Welcome to my world.

I think the Autokonextion kit will be the perfect match for the 10's. I sold both sets of my 9's and will replace with 10's.
Son of a bitch. I need a set of 9's! If anybody else is upgrading, let me know.
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Old 11-15-2011, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by k24madness
LOL that's who I was referring to. Those were my tires we tried.
HA! OK then, I did not know who was who! Now I need to go spring shopping.
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:51 AM
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don't forget, cali tracks not = to Tx. tracks for the most part. we have alot more bumpy tracks. (and are bumpier too!, lol)
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Old 11-15-2011, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
It's really hard to get good photos in our shop, so this is all I have for now. There's just no way to fit them in the front, and I've got the rear just about cleared on one side but it took a huge amount of work and looks like crap, so I ordered Autokonexion over-fenders today that add 30mm of clearance on all 4 corners. Hopefully that's enough to avoid rubbing at full bump.

They are pretty god damn sexy, though.
As an alternative to puting a flare on the fronts, you can do what I did - you cut the front fender a straight line following the waterline along the section of the fender between the wheel well and the door. The reason the front fender can only be pulled out to a certain point is because the aluminum will only stretch so much - and it's anchored on both sides of the bottom of the wheel well. So, if you cut one side, you can flare the top of the fender out easily another 1/2 to full inch. The additional benefit of this is you can push the lower section of that fender inwards to help vent air out from the wheel well. I have sideskirts which I blended into the fender, which supports the cut section, but if since you don't have aftermarket sideskirts, you could just push that lower section in, and support the flared out section with a DIY rod/support. Anyways, once you cut one side of the fender, it flares out as much as you want. You could definitely fit the 10" 6UL under my front fender.

The rears are a different story. Multiple layers of metal = you pretty much have to do a add-on flare. I've got the same Autokonexion rear flares (the small ones) as you ordered.

-Ryan
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Old 11-15-2011, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ThePass

The rears are a different story. Multiple layers of metal = you pretty much have to do a add-on flare. I've got the same Autokonexion rear flares (the small ones) as you ordered.

-Ryan

Nick and I are both using the full-replacement rear quarters, not the mini-flares.
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Old 11-15-2011, 03:38 PM
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Ah, blister fenders. I misread. I was going by memory that the rear flare I have adds ~30mm, and skimmed over that detail. Disregard then. The main benefit I saw to cutting the OEM fender and flaring it out was that it was better in terms of front aero than a add-on flare, but the blister fender accomplishes the same thing. Just costs a lot more than a cutting disc for the dremel

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Old 11-15-2011, 04:11 PM
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don't forget, cali tracks not = to Tx. tracks for the most part. we have alot more bumpy tracks. (and are bumpier too!, lol)
Word to that, on both counts, track and body. I am sure I would want to switch back to the softer springs whenever I visit H2R; imagine 900# springs in T9. The general bumpiness of the Texas tracks has me hesitant to go that high. I think I may be better off with slightly higher ride height and 'lighter' springs. Ony way to know is to get another set of springs, but that is ~$300+ I could spend on something else, like beer to keep up my bumps.

So the tire engineer at Hoosier told me that -2 degs of camber is enough for this tire. Maybe he just wants me to cord the outside edge prematurely so they can sell me more tires At any rate I'll take the emperical data presented here and start with increased camber, say at or more than -3.0 degs for starters, with careful tire temperature measurements.
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:23 PM
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LOL, I meant we have more bumpy tracks, and more of them! But yeah, i for one am alot "bumpier" than those camel jockey's!
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