dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Alright so I measured the bolt centre distance on the two different brackets and my stock caliper bolt holes are about 10mm further out from the carrier mounting bolt than the 1.8's that I picked up. These brackets are indeed different parts. Question is, why are the brake pads the same? Are sport and non-sport pads cross-compatible? All the suppliers list different part numbers.

I just dug up the old order for my sport DTC-30 rear pads and I ordered the correct p/n. I don't know why they sent me the standard pad and why they fit with no issue.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Anyone?

Factory sport brakes using standard pads. What is the difference?

The rotor is at least 3 years old, the pad is wearing evenly.

k24madness

iTrader: (6)

I would love to know how that's possible. I read the carrier determined the pad. Sport carrier=sport pad.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Me too. Some manufacturer conspiracy going on here. Surprised that no one has tried this.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Anyone look into this themselves yet? I'm about to unload the parts I've got for the M-tuned/1.8 carrier swap that I've purchased.

Miataturbo

Cant comment on brakes but the best pads I have tried BY FAR on a stock setup are Axxis ultimates, supposed to be a ceramic type pad however they have brilliant bite from cold.. Im only running them on the standard 1.8 setup however im switching to sport brakes in the next week or two so im hoping to buy a set for those, out of interest in general what is the best brake fluid to use on a daily drive which gets tracked/taken to drift days fairly often?

jacob300zx

Are you freakin joking? You must be on Sears Roadhandlers to make EBC Green, HP Plus, Axxis Ultimate, etc last on a road course. If your a serious driver with sticky rubber RS3, NT01, Avon, Hoosier you need a manpad.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

yea...interesting question. Any high temp stuff is usually good, but the key is frequent replacement, not necessarily the type (unless you are talking about junk vs. RBF600).

ATE blue is common, but I prefer RBF600.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

With the TSE brakes in the front, my caliper temps are so low that expensive fluid makes no sense. I'm on the Ate limit in the rear. You get twice as much Ate at half the price of RBF600.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

This.

jasonb

i was like wha? too and then i saw this on ncr today. Axxis ultimates are the hot setup who knew.

(full disclosure: car is used for autox car is 134whp).

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, trail braking at 130mph will get you turning backwards with too much rear bias. It is like pulling the e-brake handle at speed. I'm sure it helps with rotation at the auto-x, and every application is different. Trial and error will determine what works for you for your chosen style of driving and needs.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

he is on stock brakes, I am on stock brakes, and so are most people. But I do agree, you do not need expensive brake fluid, especially if you stick to frequent changes.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

A pack of temp strips will tell you which brake fluid to buy. 500*f+ is really high, probably too high for the rubber in the calipers.

gtred

When I compared the non-sport rear pads to sport pads, they looked very similar, however the "sport" pads were a bit wider (more swept/radial depth).

(These were Hawk Blue's)

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, you are probably right as the rotor seems to have a previously worn area closer to the hub in the pics above. Doesn't look like the non-sport pad is contacting it anymore.

Just flushed my brakes after about 500km of track and the fluid from the front calipers was as dark as engine oil. Is it normally supposed to be this dark. Last time I remember doing it, the fluid was a dark honey colour. Should I bleed them more often instead of a full flush?

mr_hyde

iTrader: (4)

I was shipped non-sport pads once (fronts) and when I went to install them my immediate reaction was, 'these won't work - they are the wrong pad'. They would have been floating around crazy in the brackets.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

The fronts are different, but the rears are similar.

Those of you who have tested (I don't own sport rear brakes anymore and don't think I can find the used rear sport pads in the junk), would the sport rear pad fit in a non-sport bracket with non-sport caliper with the m-tuned adapter and sport rear disk?
Using non-sport rear pads now and having the option of larger pad surface could be one possibility for change (balance, worth it, cost effective, etc, who knows before testing).

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Yes, the fronts are completely different. The rears are cross compatible.

As far as surface area, how much of a difference would it make in this case? People are using the M-tuned brackets, non-sport caliper, non-sport bracket and sport rotor. If the sport option was ultimately better, I'm certain that people would be after those instead. When I replaced my seized rear caliper, it came with the sport bracket, so I don't think it's a rare item.

I'm not so sure about this. I sold the m-tuned/1.8 parts before going any further. IIRC the M-tuned adapter angled the caliper slightly, I don't know what sort of effect that would have.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Dark fluid is very bad. It usually means your fluid is full of moisture and will boil more easily. It can also mean rust, rubber parts degrading, or exposure to excessive heat. In any case, it should be light and clear.

If you are tracking the car you should be changing the fluid every two months anyway, especially if using stock-type fluid. The guys using high dollar fluids don't usually have to do it quite so often. Pro race teams change it every race.

Keep the exposure of the fluid to the air to an absolute minimum because the fluid sucks moisture out of the air. I keep the reservoir lid and the caps from the bottles on as much as possible. I also buy only the smaller bottles so that the fluid stays fresh better. I'm not even close to being the fastest guy here but at ~200whp with Hoosier slicks I haven't reached the limit of off the shelf DOT4 on the track yet.