codrus

Mazdaspeed sent me a B01A-33-060A a couple weeks ago (screwup, they were supposed to send me a *front* hub), which is the supercession replacement part from a -060. I have it sitting in front of me -- it's a splined hub casting with standard studs pressed into it, no bearings, no seals, no ABS rings.

--Ian

Gt2560rMiata

iTrader: (-2)

So this is only an issue with R-comp tires (or sticky 225s on 15x9s) and lots of track time correct ? Was hoping to get my car setup to do HPDEs in the future now Im a little scared lol

k24madness

iTrader: (6)

Yikes....I will listen to the warnings and change mine before the next event. Gotta get these on a maintenance cycle like the fronts.

codrus

I don't think there's any real consensus of what is and is not an issue for it, aside from V8 cars running the old-design V8R hubs being a bad idea.

More torque means more load, more grip means more load, and bouncing it off berms at the track means shock loads. Any of those is going to mean a greater chance of failure, but how much is too much? No idea.

Anecdotally, I ran 40-50 track days on the original rear hubs on my 99, with R compounds (V700 Victoracers and RA-1s). I swapped them recently as a part of a (currently incomplete) ABS retrofit project so they're sitting on the workbench -- I plan to look at them closely.

The solution is to do what real race teams do. You pick a defined lifetime period for the part and then track when it was installed and how many miles/hours/track days/whatever it has on it. When it hits that lifetime, you replace it and throw the old one in the trash, no matter what it looks like.

--Ian

Laur3ns

Thanks for sharing details.
Note that ABS rings are on the half shafts.

Laur3ns

To roll the car needs to 'hook'. Without a wheel there is less to hook onto?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I was thinking the sharp metal bits would dig into the ground once off the pavement. I've seen vehicles roll going a lot slower than Sav was going. I didn't think he would ever stop spinning.

CoralDoc

My hub failure is now up on YouTube.

Be sure to watch the rear-view mirror after the car comes to a stop .

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

:36 creepy but..lol

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

miss me?!

j_man

Btw saw a post elsewhere mentioning Andrew's hub failure during the weekend at Willow Springs. The same post also mentioned another Miata catching fire and a picture linked of it. What the hell happened with that one:

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

z31maniac

What does anyone think a reasonable replacement schedule is? Every season?

Maybe two seasons on an HPDE car?

robertcope

That is the big question. I've got about 20K miles on my car since 10/2010 in 107 days on track (where a day is usually four 20-25 minute sessions), and it was a track car before I bought it; should I be concerned or not? On the plus side, I'm only running NT01s, no Hoosiers, and my power level is low.

Is this something that we can inspect with the hub on the car?

robert

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Every ~150 track hours is a safe estimate. You could probably safely push that to 200 hours, but the failure mode is so catastrophic that it's not worth the risk. ~150 hours is about one year of racing for me. (25-30 events a year, 5-6 hours a weekend)

Savington

iTrader: (31)

You can inspect it, but that doesn't mean a crack won't start the next time you drive it. With as many hours as you have on your car, I'd change them.

z31maniac

That works out to about 90 track days for me. Our local track is 5 20 minute sessions a day, unless it's a different organizer than the track itself.

I bought rebuilt spindles, with fresh hubs/bearings/ARP studs, and they have 4 days on them now. Good to know I *shouldn't* have to worry about it for awhile.

curly

iTrader: (25)

I blame the track on the sebring video, not the miata's hub. I hate that turn in any and all video games I play it on, looks like they're not that far off in harshness. Glad you're ok.

Ski_Lover

A respected race car builder / shop owner here in the bay area told me the original hubs that came on the Miata seem to live significantly longer than the OEM replacements. He recommended I replace mine every two years and also said regular racers should do it every year.

Andrew, I did not realize the extent of your track *****-mongering, sounds to me like you should replace every six months :-)

tpwalsh

Every 2 years? That's 9000 runs(or 500 3 person, 3 run weekends). I'm now thinking of changing mine from the OE ones on the car, but then I dont' think I'll touch them for a very long time.