Where to remove weight from a track only car?
08-26-2010, 11:11 PM
#81
I swapped to a Canadian Non Airbag column and combo switch and dropped ~4 lbs. The column is lighter the mounting bracket is lighter and there is no knee bolster metal backup plates under the dash.
My car is still heavy it weighed 2283 with no fuel in it and the hard top off. At Packwood national tour this last weekend.
Bob
My car is still heavy it weighed 2283 with no fuel in it and the hard top off. At Packwood national tour this last weekend.
Bob
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08-26-2010, 11:59 PM
#82
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Back to Double O 86's question. I don't have windows anymore and I simply reach over the door and unlatch the door from the pull handle or from inside the door I pull down on the linkage that runs from the door handle to the latch.
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08-27-2010, 12:04 AM
#83
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I also used similar cable and an adjustable turnbuckle to support the doors after removing the crash beams (NASCAR bars on both sides of my cage).
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08-27-2010, 02:00 AM
#84
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This is a very bad idea. There is a reason why Al is rarely used for electrical conductivity. Al in it's pure form is very highly conductive, but Al oxide is not at all. The ends of the wires will corrode into Al oxide, the resistance in the wire goes up and with it comes lots and lots of heat. Like enough heat to set something on fire, melt through the battery, etc.
geez, i had better check the connection on my oven. when i replaced it last i forget if i put anything on the wires to keep them from oxidizing. its pulling 30A i think, so that might be a problem
@rharris: when did they stop using aluminum wire in residential houses? mine is 12ish years old and is full of it.
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08-27-2010, 09:49 AM
#86
If your house was built 12 years ago, then it has some variation of an aluminum alloy and not just aluminum like in the 70's. That is safe, but you do have to take a few more precautions than normal. The main thing you have to watch out of is called cold creep. This is where the wire gets hot and cold several times quickly and actually expands. This can cause problems down the line if you aren't careful, but mainly is only a concern when you have a circuit that is blowing a breaker fairly often.
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08-27-2010, 03:31 PM
#88
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okok, you made me google. i think the al idea got a fail without a fair shake.
http://delphi.com/manufacturers/auto...bles/cable-al/
So it is being marketed. I cannot find any references to real world battery cable tho. I suspect that the al cable is going to be 30-40% bigger and eat into the weight savings.
Delphi Aluminum Cable is a cost-effective cable, lightweight wiring alternative that offers up to 48 percent mass reduction compared to traditional copper core cable. Approximately ½ pound (227 grams) of aluminum can replace 1 pound (454 grams) of copper
So it is being marketed. I cannot find any references to real world battery cable tho. I suspect that the al cable is going to be 30-40% bigger and eat into the weight savings.
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08-27-2010, 07:10 PM
#90
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How did you reconcile the differences in both the plugs between the '90 US wiring and the early Canadian combo switches? And how did you reconcile the wiper wiring? It seems like you'd have to rewire all the turn signals and wiper to make them work with the Canadian combo switch.
I also took every unused wire out of my harness, no warning buzzers, AC, cruse, Air bag etc.
Bob
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08-27-2010, 07:20 PM
#91
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+1. I have a cable attached to the latch, and when I push on the cable it catches the latch just before it reaches the skin of the door and the door swings open.
I also used similar cable and an adjustable turnbuckle to support the doors after removing the crash beams (NASCAR bars on both sides of my cage).
I also used similar cable and an adjustable turnbuckle to support the doors after removing the crash beams (NASCAR bars on both sides of my cage).
Does the door get too floppy if you cut out the side impact beam? I am thinking of taking some weight out of my door somehow.
Bob
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08-31-2010, 10:17 PM
#98
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If I added a transmission and/or diff cooler, that is where I would put them, in the trunk, with some creative, preferably downforce augmenting ducting system as a bonus.
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