Where to remove weight from a track only car?
07-17-2011, 08:29 PM
#181
Does the drivetrain need to remain stock(ish)? If not, why not rip the engine, tranny and all associated crap out and throw in a ninja zx-10r engine in and throw a turbo on the bitch. 166 hp stock... with like a 10,000 or somefin redline. Wouldn't be too hard to convert the chain drive. That'd save you what? like 4-500#?
More along the norm, tubular subframe(s)? Tubular lowers? Manufactered spindles instead of cast?
More along the norm, tubular subframe(s)? Tubular lowers? Manufactered spindles instead of cast?
430lbs ≠ ~2000lbs
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07-18-2011, 12:55 AM
#182
I should just really post "yer face is retarded!", but I ain't...
It always cracks me up when someone blurts out "that's retarded" without anything else intelligent to add. So, we can assume you're a fifth grader?
I'm gonna take these outta order here. First off, I never said it would be comparable to a sportbike, so yer comment is just stupid.
Ok, let's do some assumptions and figuring just for fun. This thread is about shaving weight for better track handling. My stockesque miata runs like what, ~125hp? currently weighs 2340#. I know I can shave 300# without too much effort. Now, let's assume we can shave another 500# with engine, tranny, and stuff. Now we are talking a 1500# car. Let's add an engine with another 35hp or so... See the picture? I also said in my original post to turbo the ninja engine, I have no idea what you can pump these up to safely so I didnt comment on that. The only place I can see were this would suck would be the torque, kinda anemic.
So, now that you have the full picture of what I was saying, you can safely sit inside yer sheeple box and stfu!
It always cracks me up when someone blurts out "that's retarded" without anything else intelligent to add. So, we can assume you're a fifth grader?
I'm gonna take these outta order here. First off, I never said it would be comparable to a sportbike, so yer comment is just stupid.
Ok, let's do some assumptions and figuring just for fun. This thread is about shaving weight for better track handling. My stockesque miata runs like what, ~125hp? currently weighs 2340#. I know I can shave 300# without too much effort. Now, let's assume we can shave another 500# with engine, tranny, and stuff. Now we are talking a 1500# car. Let's add an engine with another 35hp or so... See the picture? I also said in my original post to turbo the ninja engine, I have no idea what you can pump these up to safely so I didnt comment on that. The only place I can see were this would suck would be the torque, kinda anemic.
So, now that you have the full picture of what I was saying, you can safely sit inside yer sheeple box and stfu!
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07-18-2011, 01:18 AM
#183
Cpt. Slow
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First off, you won't save 500lbs.
Secondly, you won't have reverse.
Thirdly, you won't have any torque to move your car.
Fourthly, it's cost prohibitive. We do have tubular subframes, no one that can afford them is going to start with a miata.
Fifthly, you're an idiot.
Sixthly, drop it or I'm warning you. Start another thread if you'd like to talk about motorcycle engine conversions.
Secondly, you won't have reverse.
Thirdly, you won't have any torque to move your car.
Fourthly, it's cost prohibitive. We do have tubular subframes, no one that can afford them is going to start with a miata.
Fifthly, you're an idiot.
Sixthly, drop it or I'm warning you. Start another thread if you'd like to talk about motorcycle engine conversions.
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07-18-2011, 01:49 AM
#184
First off, you won't save 500lbs.
Secondly, you won't have reverse.
Thirdly, you won't have any torque to move your car.
Fourthly, it's cost prohibitive. We do have tubular subframes, no one that can afford them is going to start with a miata.
Fifthly, you're an idiot.
Sixthly, drop it or I'm warning you. Start another thread if you'd like to talk about motorcycle engine conversions.
Secondly, you won't have reverse.
Thirdly, you won't have any torque to move your car.
Fourthly, it's cost prohibitive. We do have tubular subframes, no one that can afford them is going to start with a miata.
Fifthly, you're an idiot.
Sixthly, drop it or I'm warning you. Start another thread if you'd like to talk about motorcycle engine conversions.
2nd-easily overcome
3rd-I agree, just an idea.
4th-k just an idea
5th-bite me.
6th-k. No prob. Just a question and an idea. Sorry for pissing on the thread. I will speak of this no more.
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07-18-2011, 09:50 AM
#186
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On the bike-engine topic: http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=33723
They use the stock Miata transmission (for gearing purposes; using a bike transmission pretty much doesn't work), and overall save about 150lbs (and do not have the engine turbo'd). I'm adding this ONLY for a more accurate idea of how much weight you'd get rid of.
They use the stock Miata transmission (for gearing purposes; using a bike transmission pretty much doesn't work), and overall save about 150lbs (and do not have the engine turbo'd). I'm adding this ONLY for a more accurate idea of how much weight you'd get rid of.
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07-29-2011, 01:42 PM
#187
I'm in the very early stages of this process but for you hardcore dudes, IDK what the nasa rules are but can you Tube the front end from like strut tower forward? A lot of drift cars do that front and rear to save weight but add rigidity/simplicity
I know its a 240 but
I know its a 240 but
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07-29-2011, 02:44 PM
#188
I'm Miserable!
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I think removing the soft top, but then adding weight lower for a lower c/g will work better... the further from the center of the car, the less total over all weight to get your corner weights.
From an article on the iRacing forums, in NASCAR, they could make the cars really light weight, but due to their weight requirements.. they bond tungsten (sp?) to the bottom of the gearbox, so any weight it does have is as low as possible and still ends up weighing 3800 lbs
From an article on the iRacing forums, in NASCAR, they could make the cars really light weight, but due to their weight requirements.. they bond tungsten (sp?) to the bottom of the gearbox, so any weight it does have is as low as possible and still ends up weighing 3800 lbs
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08-27-2011, 01:07 PM
#189
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Gutted my doors. Car is still streetable, so I needed to retain the option of having glass, so the windows can now be set into place for security or pulled out for competition in 5 seconds.
I had aftermarket speakers which are a bit heavier than OEM speakers, but not much. Total weight saved from both doors: 52.5 lbs
Then I pulled the amplifier as well as all audio related wiring throughout the car. Saved another 12 lbs.
So I pulled out 64 lbs with this project
And before anyone comments about safety, door bars are forthcoming.
-Ryan
I had aftermarket speakers which are a bit heavier than OEM speakers, but not much. Total weight saved from both doors: 52.5 lbs
Then I pulled the amplifier as well as all audio related wiring throughout the car. Saved another 12 lbs.
So I pulled out 64 lbs with this project
And before anyone comments about safety, door bars are forthcoming.
-Ryan
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08-27-2011, 01:12 PM
#190
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Black car is ~1975lbs dry, no driver, with a full cage, fire system, aero, and turbo. Weight distribution is awful, though, 55/45. I have considered tubing the front half of the car to fix this, or having a carbon front clip fabbed. (droolz.)
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02-26-2012, 06:44 PM
#192
Caged? If not, you're cheating.
Black car is ~1975lbs dry, no driver, with a full cage, fire system, aero, and turbo. Weight distribution is awful, though, 55/45. I have considered tubing the front half of the car to fix this, or having a carbon front clip fabbed. (droolz.)
Black car is ~1975lbs dry, no driver, with a full cage, fire system, aero, and turbo. Weight distribution is awful, though, 55/45. I have considered tubing the front half of the car to fix this, or having a carbon front clip fabbed. (droolz.)
Took some weight out this weekend. doesn't look it, but thats 57 #
still door glass to go
Attachment 35217
still door glass to go
Attachment 35217
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02-27-2012, 01:01 AM
#193
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a secondary interest is to see if i can get a good f/r weight distribution after adding some new turbo hardware (3071gtx). car has an aluminum block motor so i was gonna give it a shot and see what happens.
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03-04-2012, 06:12 PM
#195
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hook mod. props to brian h for donating the sacrifice.
cut the hook off first. then drill rivets (do as i say not as i do
)
scootch it to one side and cut with body saw
scootch and cut other side. lower portion pulls right out.
upper portion is bigger so use your tin snips and cut off a little bit.
then it also comes out
results in
almost half a pound
cut the hook off first. then drill rivets (do as i say not as i do
)scootch it to one side and cut with body saw
scootch and cut other side. lower portion pulls right out.
upper portion is bigger so use your tin snips and cut off a little bit.
then it also comes out
results in
almost half a pound
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04-12-2012, 04:01 AM
#198
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Curious about the terms some are using here: "wet" and "dry" - does this refer only to the amount of fuel in the car at the time of weighing, or for a "dry" weight are you guys calculating the weight of the oil, brake fluid, coolant, etc. and subtracting that from your car's weight?
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04-12-2012, 04:36 AM
#199
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Curious about the terms some are using here: "wet" and "dry" - does this refer only to the amount of fuel in the car at the time of weighing, or for a "dry" weight are you guys calculating the weight of the oil, brake fluid, coolant, etc. and subtracting that from your car's weight?
Wet = full fluids INCLUDING gas
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04-12-2012, 07:36 AM
#200
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Weighed my car with ~2 gallons of gas in the car, and passenger seat.
2080 lbs
So removed passenger seat w/ bracket and harnesses, which I do for events, gets me to 2048.
Dry weight (1 gallon gas ~ 6lbs) is then ~2036 lbs
Items that add weight: cage, turbo, intercooler, oil cooler, 3" exhaust, sideskirts, front end aero and splitter, diffuser, rear spoiler...
I think that's fairly respectable for a car that can still be driven on the street to and from events that has a lot of additional weight from the aero and turbo.
-Ryan
2080 lbs
So removed passenger seat w/ bracket and harnesses, which I do for events, gets me to 2048.
Dry weight (1 gallon gas ~ 6lbs) is then ~2036 lbs
Items that add weight: cage, turbo, intercooler, oil cooler, 3" exhaust, sideskirts, front end aero and splitter, diffuser, rear spoiler...
I think that's fairly respectable for a car that can still be driven on the street to and from events that has a lot of additional weight from the aero and turbo.
-Ryan
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