Where to remove weight from a track only car?
08-13-2010, 07:30 PM
#61
Cpt. Slow
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Awesome, simpler than I imagined. I even have that front hole available since I don't run an ignitor. How's it mounted to the firewall? I wouldn't be asking these stupid questions if my car was in front of me. But it's not.
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08-14-2010, 02:17 AM
#64
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because this thread isn't about driving technique, it's about removing weight.
i removed lbs. worth of brackets and bolts under the hood. including the washer bottle and heavy bracket that held it and the fuse box. i now just have a small alum. tab holding the fuse box. also part of my winter remodeling will include replacing my heavy steel i/c pipes with an aluminum otr pipng setup, and replace the cat-back exh. pipe with aluminum.
on the wiring, i wish i could have this guy make me a new harness!
http://rywire.com/store/replacement-...ess-p-245.html
i removed lbs. worth of brackets and bolts under the hood. including the washer bottle and heavy bracket that held it and the fuse box. i now just have a small alum. tab holding the fuse box. also part of my winter remodeling will include replacing my heavy steel i/c pipes with an aluminum otr pipng setup, and replace the cat-back exh. pipe with aluminum.
on the wiring, i wish i could have this guy make me a new harness!
http://rywire.com/store/replacement-...ess-p-245.html
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08-14-2010, 06:53 AM
#65
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Davie, Florida
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Not even close to street legal, but this turn signal conversion will get you home if your stuck at the track until after dark: http://www.eunos.com/keith/lights.html
For a track car, it's a no-brainer - don't even worry about the turn signal conversion. Headlight covers on my car are now supported with lightweight aluminum brackets, though additional weight can be saved by fabricating covers made from something lighter than steel or running a hood with integrated headlight covers.
Removal of the entire headlight bucket/motor assembly is good for about 9 pounds of weight savings per corner - and the weight is removed from a very desirable place.
For a track car, it's a no-brainer - don't even worry about the turn signal conversion. Headlight covers on my car are now supported with lightweight aluminum brackets, though additional weight can be saved by fabricating covers made from something lighter than steel or running a hood with integrated headlight covers.
Removal of the entire headlight bucket/motor assembly is good for about 9 pounds of weight savings per corner - and the weight is removed from a very desirable place.
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08-14-2010, 01:45 PM
#66
Not even close to street legal, but this turn signal conversion will get you home if your stuck at the track until after dark: http://www.eunos.com/keith/lights.html
For a track car, it's a no-brainer - don't even worry about the turn signal conversion. Headlight covers on my car are now supported with lightweight aluminum brackets, though additional weight can be saved by fabricating covers made from something lighter than steel or running a hood with integrated headlight covers.
Removal of the entire headlight bucket/motor assembly is good for about 9 pounds of weight savings per corner - and the weight is removed from a very desirable place.
For a track car, it's a no-brainer - don't even worry about the turn signal conversion. Headlight covers on my car are now supported with lightweight aluminum brackets, though additional weight can be saved by fabricating covers made from something lighter than steel or running a hood with integrated headlight covers.
Removal of the entire headlight bucket/motor assembly is good for about 9 pounds of weight savings per corner - and the weight is removed from a very desirable place.
they are short wide lights, std. reflector, not projector style. if i remove the turni signal housings, i can see great at night. i've actually driven to oklahoma on my setup.
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08-15-2010, 02:18 AM
#68
Cpt. Slow
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Genesplicer could do that, it'd go with his Jap zero theme. The miata panels are already fairly light. I wasn't a huge fan of their article. Too general. Same with the power article, much too general.
The brake rotor was awesome, too bad almost no one would do that. I'd shave down to minimum thickness though.
The brake rotor was awesome, too bad almost no one would do that. I'd shave down to minimum thickness though.
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08-25-2010, 07:49 PM
#71
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Someone asked what the "baby teeth" are earlier in this post... Can someone answer this for the rest of us not in the know?!
As for taking weight out of the car... When I gutted my manual window doors, I cut the door braces out and everything then used aluminum to brace the door skins up. When done I took 30 pounds out of each door!
As for taking weight out of the car... When I gutted my manual window doors, I cut the door braces out and everything then used aluminum to brace the door skins up. When done I took 30 pounds out of each door!
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08-26-2010, 09:15 PM
#76
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: onion city,ca
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does anybody make wire with aluminum conductor and automotive grade insulation?
i'm thinking the wire from battery up to starter and couple of other places with biggish copper. aluminum is relatively brittle compared to copper, so you would probably only want to use it where it is fixed to the chassis, i would imagine.
i also see quite a bit of metal thats not being used anymore on my car around where the stock shoulder seatbelt mount was. basically all that metal vertically above the top of the gas tank.
i'm thinking the wire from battery up to starter and couple of other places with biggish copper. aluminum is relatively brittle compared to copper, so you would probably only want to use it where it is fixed to the chassis, i would imagine.
i also see quite a bit of metal thats not being used anymore on my car around where the stock shoulder seatbelt mount was. basically all that metal vertically above the top of the gas tank.
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08-26-2010, 10:29 PM
#77
That's what i am looking at right now is all the extra metal around the car. The whole back parcel shelf could be taken out up to the studs for the soft top rain rail. If you have the trunk hinges off then you could really do a number on the area and gut it straight into the trunk area.
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08-26-2010, 10:46 PM
#78
This is a very bad idea. There is a reason why Al is rarely used for electrical conductivity. Al in it's pure form is very highly conductive, but Al oxide is not at all. The ends of the wires will corrode into Al oxide, the resistance in the wire goes up and with it comes lots and lots of heat. Like enough heat to set something on fire, melt through the battery, etc.
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08-26-2010, 10:50 PM
#79
This is a very bad idea. There is a reason why Al is rarely used for electrical conductivity. Al in it's pure form is very highly conductive, but Al oxide is not at all. The ends of the wires will corrode into Al oxide, the resistance in the wire goes up and with it comes lots and lots of heat. Like enough heat to set something on fire, melt through the battery, etc.
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08-26-2010, 11:05 PM
#80
That's what i am looking at right now is all the extra metal around the car. The whole back parcel shelf could be taken out up to the studs for the soft top rain rail. If you have the trunk hinges off then you could really do a number on the area and gut it straight into the trunk area.
(G)
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