2busy2work

My son and I are installing a hotside M62 supercharger on his 2000 Miata. The kit is new never installed. However, we do not have the instructions that cover this exact kit. We are using the R1 intake manifold, so no dummy throttle body. The IAC mounts to a block at the entrance to the blower. The mounting block has a few extra holes we are not sure what they do. It appears the larger hole is for a flow control vavle.

Does anyone here know what this flow control valve is for or how to connect to this aluminum block that holds the IAC when you use the 70 mm throttle body? The part number on the valve is CP618-2-B-0-E.

It appears they did not thread the hole for it during mfg. of the mounting block. Maybe that is an oversight. Also, why the other threaded holes beside where the flow control valve apparently goes? What goes in them? The passages in the block all seem to connect without the valve installed.

We know the IAC valve attaches to it on the topside but have no clue what to do with the flow control valve and extra holes.





If you want to follow the build, it is being posted at BRP M62 Supercharger Install - Mostly MIATA

BarbyCar

iTrader: (1)

I had one of those.
That big hole should have been threaded to accept the flow control valve. One of the other holes you connect a hose between it and the intake after the MAF.

The valve is supposed to be used to tune the idle rpm but in practice it never made much difference on 99 and newer models. All of the other holes are additional vacuum sources and can be plugged.

A suggestion: If you are using the stock ecu with piggy backs then consider a dual throttle setup and leave the IAC on the stock location.

2busy2work

Thanks for sharing that. I figured it was for something like that. We did buy a tap and have tapped the hole. The flow control valve now fits but we also bought some plugs so we can just plug the hole.





We already put plugs the other holes.



We will be using an AEM FIC to control the boost. It allows much more control than other piggyback units.

We want to try running with the BRP R1 intake manifold and BRP over the radiator intercooler which, when used together, are supposed to keep the intake volume down enough to not be an issue on idle. We will see.

Thanks again for the information about that valve.

RunninOnEmpty

iTrader: (5)

--Deleting accidental double-post

RunninOnEmpty

iTrader: (5)

BRP MP62 Hotside BIg Throttle Body
Hope this pic works out, not sure what I'm doing on the iPad. I found the flow control valve extremely helpful. It felt like the equivalent of fine tuning a Miata throttle body, rather then the rough setup of adjusting the spring catch like on many of the cheaper Mustang TBs used. Took a lot of trial and error, but it definitely helped wi idle quality for me. I think only one company made a Mustang Throttle body with both adjustment for the throttle catch and a fine tuning at the butterfly, but they are no longer made, so this is the next best thing. This combined with the R1 intake you have and an IC too big for my setup. Only warning is that it leaves very little space for the 3" intake pipe, hence the ghetto protects foam. Ends up constantly rubbing small holes in the tubing. If you can fab up a permanent intake tube, that'd be ideal,

2busy2work

That is good to know. I did get that same information about the flow control valve. I have it installed in the IAC block now and will use it accordingly to adjust the idle.

The flexible tubing on the supercharger intake is rubbing on the IAC valve. I knew this was not good and you just confirmed that. Another member sent me a private message and he suggested relocating the IAC valve all together. On his setup the flexible tube had much more room. He had moved the IAC closer to its original OEM location on the intake manifold to get better idle control. Since we now have two good reasons to relocate it, we will probably move it to gain the space for the tube.

I also agree that a hard pipe would be better for the supercharger intake especially since it must have such a hard bend. But I am not sure if we can find what is needed to make one. We will look around and see.

Thanks for the reply. We are getting close to completing the installation now.

BarbyCar

iTrader: (1)

I was able to reconfigure the brake lines coming out of the master cylinder enough to run a 3" flexible under the master and along the inside of the inner fender. YMMV.

2busy2work

Thanks, we will look at the route under the master cylinder. We will need to do something to keep the tube from rubbing. We did get the car running but had some issues which I will post on our website.

2busy2work

Yes, sorry, we should have posted more about the past few weeks of effort. Notice I said "effort" instead of "success" since we had to sort out some issues. However, we have been posting to our website detailed accounts of the issues we have been working on. Some of these issues took us a while to figure out.

We have sorted enough issues now to where we have a running engine and we are starting to tune the FIC up to 5 psi. While tuning, we found more issues that had to be sorted. We are just now begining to make progress on the tune.

This is a short version of the issues and the corrections we made to get the car running without any boost:

1. Fuel pressure gauge fitting did not fit correctly. It was removed and we waited until later to address the fuel pressure gauge.
2. The engine would start cold, but it would not start at operating temperature. We had to put in more fuel on the map where the engine starts to get it to start again.
3. The engine died on occasion and would not restart after fixing the fuel map. We swapped the CAS and CKPS with no effect. We found the main relay had burned up so we first tried to fix it but in the end had to replace it. We also relieved the load on main relay contacts by adding a separate fuel pump relay feeds directly from the battery to the fuel pump.
4. The engine ran very rough when we encountered a rain shower while testing the engine without the hood installed. We stopped dryed out the ignition connections and reinstalled the hood.
5. The six rib belt on the supercharger was getting too long due to stretching. We installed a shorter kevlar belt.
6. We had to build a start up file to begin to run in boost.
7. We built a warning system to help us tune in stages of boost.
8. We finally sorted the fuel pressure fitting problem and installed the fuel pressure gauge.
9. We waited to get assistance from Ken Hill to help us with tuning the FIC.

So this weekend we started tuning again by making logs and some adjustments to the tune (more detail will be posted later to our website). We also sorted a few more issues we knew needed to be fixed to make the car more driveable.

1. We were getting a misfire code on cylinder 3. We swapped the COP with cylinder 2 which so far has eliminated the problem so it must have been a connector issue.
2. We were having problems with the engine dying when stopping due to idle droop. We adjusted the flow control valve at the IAC block and eliminated the idle droop and engine dying.
3. The engine was stuttering above 3000 rpm when under light load and not in boost. We made some adjustments in the fuel map below boost to help the car run more smoothly, but are not sure we have that fixed.
4. We are considering adjusting the dead time for our injectors since we know we are running about 66 psi fuel pressure instead of 60 psi. So the setting should be around 1.2 ms. instead of 1.296 ms.
5. We made some logs while running below boost and some while running at 5 psi so we can start fine tuning the fuel map and moving into higher boost levels.

More will be posted as we make progress, but it will be slower now since and Matt is a still a working man and progress is limited to weekends.

Stockish

Im upset I just saw this thread! I have essentially the exact same BRP kit as you. Running 14psi. Its a monster. I was pleased to see you figured out the IAC block.

I will add: I had issues with my car, until I had the injector deadtime dialed in. It was butter after that. Ms3 here for management...

2busy2work

We have made sigificant progress with tuning since the last week's post.

This past weekend, we were able to turn up the boost and go to WOT. With help from Ken Hill, the dead time and the fuel map was adjusted...with great results! 17.2 psi at 6500 rpm with no knock was the maximum reached so far. Thanks Ken!

Now we can start fine tuning.

Stockish

What size pulleys are you using to achieve 17psi at 6500?

2busy2work

It is a 150 mm Fast Forward crank pulley and the stock pulley on the supercharger which I think is a 65 mm pulley. We also have the 70 mm throttle body and are using the BRP R1 intake manifold.

The engine speed at 17.2 psi was acutally 6702 rpm per the log.

The parts list for this install is at:

B. Supercharger Parts List - Mostly MIATA