Creamsaw

A friend of mine sold his 1990 miata with a 1994 engine (1.8L), took his supercharger off (buyer wanted it stock) and bought a 240sx for drifting. It was pushing close to 200 hp (supposedly).
He wants to sell it to me for 700.
He had less than 1000 miles on the setup.

I'm only trying to get 150ish rwhp out of the setup.

It includes:
Jackson Racing twin screw M45 Supercharger with less than 100miles on it
Cross over pipe
Water to air cooler
All brackets needed
Boost timing control
Boost time adjustment ****
VAC solenoid
Misc emission electronic wiring box thingy (powercard?)
Air filter
Extra throttle that was used as a dummy throttle
Throttle to filter plastic pie piece
Extra CaS x2
Extra PS pump

That being said some questions I have

Anyone familiar with the Jackson SC?

What are some common problems with the install so I can keep and eye out for bad parts.

Anything extra to adapt it to an 1.8 2002 engine?

I'm searching right now for my own answers, but the deal will be gone on friday so I'm trying to find some help.

Update:

It was a 1994 motor in a 1990 shell.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Seriously dont bother. For 700 you can have your engine running on MS with some big injectors and have a little left to put towards a proper turbo setup.

Creamsaw

I'm not looking for big gains I know that he was exaggerating the HP claim, these S/C's barely make over 160 to the wheels. But 150 is my HP goal and if this kit is still in good condition I will pick it up.

I understand this is a turbo forum but I am just looking for advice.

Boris

iTrader: (1)

Buy it then find someone who will pay you more for it.

You have an 02 so why add all the extra weight and complexity if your goal is only another 15 BHP ?

Creamsaw

I'm looking for 150 to the wheels, which would be anywhere from 30-50 increase.

iantboyd

iTrader: (11)

My 172whp N/A Engine. Stock bottom end. No Porting. - MX-5 Miata Forum

Do that if you only want 150rwhp.

Creamsaw

Cams are 264 / 264 10mm Lift Maruha's
Supertech Single Valve Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
Mazdaspeed SUBS
Toda Adjustable Cam Gears
New OEM Valve Seals
OEM Head Gasket
TWM 45mm Individual Throttle Bodies
36 lb Fuel Injectors
ITG Sausage filter and backing plate
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Adaptronics Standalone ECU
Maruha VP Race Header
Racing Beat Resonated Race Pipe 2.375"
Jet's Integral Kobe Muffler 2.375"
Garage Star Alternator and Waterpump Pulleys
6.2 lb Spec Billet Pressure Plate
7.1 lb Fidanza Flywheel
1.3 lb Clutchnet Unsprung Street Disk
Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold
Chikara Motorsports Oil Catch Can
Koyo 52mm Radiator
Koyo 1.3 Bar Radiator Cap
Mishimoto Slim Fan
Samco Radiator Hoses
Flyin Miata Oil Cooler Kit
Beatrush Radiator Cooling Panel

This seems like a little more than 700 dollars.

Edit: More like "Ball Park Total: 9245.00 give or take"

I'm not looking for build advice, I am looking for answers to questions in the original post.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

You don't want to have to bother with the trouble of putting a jr m45 on your nb.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

M45 is not a twin screw supercharger. It is a Roots supercharger.

I disagree a bit with the advice you're getting.

Yes, if all you want is a nice bump in power, and you have a cheap M45 kit available to you, then sure, go for it. Worst case scenario, you can resell it and probably not lose any money on it.

That said, if it's not a ready-to-go bolt-on solution, just move on. Don't spend time or money trying to get a seriously compromised setup to work for you -- it's wasted effort that could be put toward a better solution.

So, it depends on your goals and it depends on how bolt-on the system is. Do some research over at m.net, I'm sure someone has (or has attempted) to reuse a 90-93 M45 setup on a 1.8l car. You can get an idea of what you'd be in for.

Creamsaw

Thank you! I was told it was bolt on, I'll do some more research on the differences on the roots type vs twin screw and just how well this kit would "bolt-on".

Boris

iTrader: (1)

Well, for one, the crossover tube will be different between the 1.6 and 1.8.
Rigging up them bandaids will be an adventure as well. That 02 of yours is a totally different animal.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Only had it for 1000 miles.

That should be a BIIIIGGGGG clue!

The former owner of my red car blew two engines with this exact setup.

Another friend of mine, a very experienced racer, just blew his motor within 59 miles of having TDR (a respected shop) install this exact setup.

Seriously, let Friday come and go and don't give it a second thought.

If your goal is really 150RWHP, check out Emilio's 95R build thread. Nothing exotic there -- just a good, solid build that yields an uber-reliable track car.

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

You can try calling Moss and asking them what the differences are in mounting a M45 between the years. They may even still have some of what you would need available. Having said that, as someone who bought a Miata with an original JRSC installed I was happy at first but then I wanted more. If you were getting a setup that bolted right up I'd say go for it, but since it isn't it will probably end up costing you more than you think. I would wait for either a MP62 if you want a super, or get a turbo.

Creamsaw

UPDATE!

It was a 94 motor, in a 1990 miata.

So, the piping should be very close to the same only difference being the power card still might not be compatible with the vvt engine.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

The mechanical stuff should all work in that case, but the power card will not work on the 99+ engines because they dont use the optical cam sensor.
You shouldnt use the powercard anyway, it will make the whole setup even worse.

Creamsaw

So I should go with mega squirt? Which version since this is just a simple setup?

Edit: Nevermind I was expecting a ecu upgrade to be a 600 dollar+ thing, I'll put my soldering skills to work and get the ms3.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Good call on the MS.

Other issue with a SC is the additional load put on the crank gear and Woodruff key. If good torque is maintained on the crankshaft bolt, everything should be OK. But those bolts tend to loosen (use loktite), and with HP going through that connection to drive a SC, the problem is even worse. We had one member here who literally ended up shearing the Woodruff key when his bolt loosened a bit.

When my friend had his installed by TDR, TDR drilled the face of the crankshaft and the crank gear. They then installed pins into these holes to supplement the Woodruff key. Good insurance. TDR installs a lot of these.

I'd still pass on the SC, but you seem determined to get it. The MS3 is a good thing to get no matter what option you want to pursue.

Creamsaw

Appreciate the info, I'll see if I can get a shop to do this as well!

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Simply put, its not a good idea. Been there, done that, and I actually used a nice MP62 not some dinky M45.

But hey, your brain is programmed to see and read nothing else besides "get it", so go ahead and just get it and experience for yourself.

Creamsaw

Yeah I'd rather have the experience of failing, instead of "I'm not going to do it because someone on the internet told me not to."

I understand you all have a lot of expertise in FI, from what I've researched a m45 will give me more heat, a little more power, and about the same fuel economy. I'm not looking to make crazy power out of it (read: 150 rwhp, 125tq).

There is always going to be a better way to get the power I want, and I'll find those down the road and maybe in a different car after I wrapped this one around a tree, or in a rebuild thread later on.

Regardless I appreciate the info!