kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

i'm curently swapping my shreadded 6'' open 1.6 diff to a 2001+ open diff
i did not received my new 1.8 swap kit so i dont know what i'll need exept the diveshaft/axels and diff/housing.

i was able to remove everything but 2 things(from a 90, i was surprised to see everything unbolt that easy)

both carrier arm 17mm bolt were removed, but there is a stupid 2 12mm bolt bracket that are rusted to hell that i can't remove.
pics--



do i need them to install my 1.8 diff? i was ready to grind them down but i wanted to ask first before I fubar everything.

as for the driveshaft i was able to remove all the nuts from the rear end but the bolts are kinda stuck in.any sugestion before i soak them and hammer them out?



thanks for the info i should receive my new diff next weekend, i wanted to remove everything to get ready to install it asap

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Yes, they are used when you do the 1.8 swap. The 1.8 diff bolts right into the same mounts and re-uses your current plates. You MIGHT be able to grind the studs off, drill through, and use bolts instead of studs, but I'm not certain that there's enough clearance to get a bolt and a wrench above it all.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Those plates won't come out until you remove the big nut that holds them on.

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

i removed all nuts , i just re-threaded them not to loose any of them

so i need to find a way to remove these bolts. ****, i'm in trouble, 2 of them are really rounded of.

zoomheep

I swapped a blown Suckigi fugi diff for a T2 in my '03, and I snapped off one of the studs that holds those plates in. I drilled it out and replaced it with a grade 12.9 bolt of the same pitch. Probably overkill but ehh. Just drill them out and replace them with some 10.9 hardware you'll be fine. If the hardware store only has SAE sizes get grade 8.

Have you gotten to the sleeve that holds the PPF to the Diff housing yet? The sleeve is steel, the ppf is aluminum and galvanic corrosion is a bitch. I used a welding torch, pry bar and a 5/8" carriage bolt to coax it out. I hope it went/goes better for you.

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

i was able to remove them all yesterday! torch+ heavyduty vicegrip and got all these ******* out.

so they're all out, exept for the driveshaft bolts, i snapped one of them in, and was able to remove only one before my hammer gives in.

i also removed the 2 super tall 17mm bolts with the sleeves on one of them.
i had no problem AT ALL removing those 2,even the sleeve dropped by itself once the bolt was out.

should i remove the entire PPF since the diff housing is now loose?i read that it's pretty much straight foward for the ppf/tranny part and that it's way simpler that way?any tought?

zoomheep

Can't help there. I just remember the sleeve sucked for me and I drilled out those studs for the plates.

I removed the ppf. But there was some adjustment you need to make putting it back. Something about measuring from the 2nd bolt on the transmission side to something...else. It's in the Service manual but I don't have that with me and I forget the details.

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

so i'"m ready to drop everything and re-install my 1.8 diff on monday.
could/should i remove the ppf, or can i make it without removing everything?
i saw both way on different forum.
it should be easier to remove it, but i need to mesure something for re-assembling,what is the less time taking way?

zoomheep

Just pull it off.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=351758

^Alignments easy^

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

wooo, thanks for the links, i owe you one.

i love MT.net

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

drivetrain swap completed.

thanks for all the info ppl!