miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I'm getting ready to purchase some FCM bump stops. Shaike has recommended getting the front shock mounts. I would love to do this, but I spending the money is starting to hurt. If the performance is significant enough, then I will take the plunge, but otherwise I will just get the bumstops now and get the shock mounts later.

Any reviews or opinions?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

They add usable suspension travel. 'Nuff said.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

+1. Look at it this way: you want to rip it all out to install them later? Just buy them now, and have a few less cheesburgers for the next couple of months.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

The cost difference between bumpstops and bumpstops plus mounts (and needed isolators) is $150.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Is there any way to tell if the front shock mounts are stock or aftermarket by looking under the hood or under the fender? I'm not really sure what the stock one is supposed to look like. I see what appears to be a big nut with a rubber cap on it. When I take the rubber cap off I see the shock nut.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

sounds stock then.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Get the mounts, too. When you have the stocker an the new one in your hands you'll see why.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I spent a few hours last night searching for awe inspiring data that supports replacing the front mounts. I just didn't find it. Most evidence seems to support replacing the rear mounts. (which I have FM units) Replacing the bumpstops seems to be provide the most dramatic improvement. I think I'd rather save my $150 bucks for tires. Going from kumho AST to RS3 will probably provide more improvement. How much more front spring travel does one need on the street?

I'm tired of spending money trying to improve every aspect. FM springs, sways, FM rear shock towers, FCM front and rear bumpstops, new stewart development revalved bilsteins. I think this suspension will be adequate for my needs.

I'm buying the fcm bumpstops and calling it a day.

I still need tires, 3.6 r&p, and I should probably replace the suspension bushings

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Don't forget the fancy swaybar end-links.

Oh, and these: http://www.thompson-automotive.com/calipercovers.html

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Ha, your killing me. I hope I've made the right choice. I'm still kinda up in the air. How many inches of front travel is there on the NA miatas? The FCM front mounts add an extra inch.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I've heard some people say they but on FCM mounts and bumps and the car felt completely different. A lot has to do with all the squishy materials he's using.

why did suggest front mounts and not rear? what's your setup? I've always found I lack rear travel, not front.

sn95

iTrader: (2)

Just order some NB tophats (I got all 4 brand new for about $75 shipped) and follow the instructions on Miata.net for fitting them to your NA. I'm going that route (with 46mm FCM bumpstops) when I get my Bilsteins back from Stewart Development.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

The current setup is stock front mounts and FM rear mounts with KYB AGX shocks and FM springs. I agree, most people complain of rear travel. I said if I didn't want to get the mounts, to just get the bumpstop kit.
The front mounts then require a spacer because it drops the car .5". Bump stop kit is $100 shipped, the whole mount kit with bumpstops and risers is $250 shipped

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I may do that and just buy the risers ($44) from FCM. Then I can probably get my NB tophats for the front put together for less than $100. I think that will be the way to go.

falcon

iTrader: (13)

link to this how-to? I found one on m.net but all the picture links are dead.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i just used the bottom bushings only, as my konis are too short. i have NB mounts front and ISC racing rear.

sn95

iTrader: (2)

What exactly are the $44 "risers" you are referring too? Can you reference "riser" to an item listed in the current FCM installation manual??

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

http://fatcatmotorsports.com/igaller...spacer_top.JPG

Since the NB mounts lower the car .5" the risers raise it back up a .5" so there is know change in ride height. If I had been slick and thought of this NB mount thing before I order my revalved bilsteins. I could have had the shocks setup for zero rake and just run the front a half inch lower. A bit more than the .3 in rake that I will have now, but livable I think.

sn95

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I just noticed the pics don't work anymore too. However, the description and the PNs in the write-up are still good. You can noodle this out without the M.net pics if you download Shaik's/FCM's installation instructions. You just need to substitute end link or shock mount poly bushings (cut down in thickness) and a few fender washers in lieu of the FCM top and bottom MCU bushings and washers that attach the top of the shock rod to the NB tophat. As long as the top of the shock rod is firmly attached to the NB hat (you don't want it "pulling through" on a hard knock) and you can't "bottom out the shock rod" you should be OK. I'll find out for sure how well this works when I'm I get my Bilsteins back from SD and start piecing everything together on the bench; I'll post up any obstacles that I run across.

sn95

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I got it. I've got GC coilovers so I can crank the car back up to stock if I don't want to lower it; still haven't decided if I want to drop the car a bit. I'm going to use the FCM 46mm bumpstops so the NB hats won't cost me any suspension travel if I "keep" the 1/2" drop.