Big Gulp needs a clutch.... Suggestions?
04-26-2011, 11:19 PM
#23
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 573
if you dont mind a little servicing to get it up to 100%, it's a solid setup. not ideal for traffic-filled commuting due to the wear, but certainly daily driveable. I probably managed about 2 years of 17-25 miles of DC's traffic out of a set of disks.
http://gallery.y8s.com/miata/tilton
you can get a stiffer spring in the pressure plate to hold as much power as you want.
http://gallery.y8s.com/miata/tilton
you can get a stiffer spring in the pressure plate to hold as much power as you want.
Reply
0
0
04-27-2011, 03:48 AM
#26
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
It's smaller than stock diameter, you have to have the corresponding flywheel. Same reason you can't put a 1.6 clutch on a 1.8 flywheel.
I have a 949 cerametallic twin. The engagement is shorter than the ACT HD/6-puck it replaced, but it engages more smoothly. As a street clutch it's probably doable, but it would be rough - it's really designed as a race clutch, the kind of clutch that allows you to snap off seamless 150ms shifts without raping the synchros.
Honestly, you're probably going to need to be a bit more realistic about your goals - you can't have a featherlight, smooth-engaging clutch that will support 400whp unless you retrofit an LS clutch/fly into the car or something.
I have a 949 cerametallic twin. The engagement is shorter than the ACT HD/6-puck it replaced, but it engages more smoothly. As a street clutch it's probably doable, but it would be rough - it's really designed as a race clutch, the kind of clutch that allows you to snap off seamless 150ms shifts without raping the synchros.
Honestly, you're probably going to need to be a bit more realistic about your goals - you can't have a featherlight, smooth-engaging clutch that will support 400whp unless you retrofit an LS clutch/fly into the car or something.
Reply
0
0
04-27-2011, 08:31 AM
#28
It's smaller than stock diameter, you have to have the corresponding flywheel. Same reason you can't put a 1.6 clutch on a 1.8 flywheel.
I have a 949 cerametallic twin. The engagement is shorter than the ACT HD/6-puck it replaced, but it engages more smoothly. As a street clutch it's probably doable, but it would be rough - it's really designed as a race clutch, the kind of clutch that allows you to snap off seamless 150ms shifts without raping the synchros.
Honestly, you're probably going to need to be a bit more realistic about your goals - you can't have a featherlight, smooth-engaging clutch that will support 400whp unless you retrofit an LS clutch/fly into the car or something.
I have a 949 cerametallic twin. The engagement is shorter than the ACT HD/6-puck it replaced, but it engages more smoothly. As a street clutch it's probably doable, but it would be rough - it's really designed as a race clutch, the kind of clutch that allows you to snap off seamless 150ms shifts without raping the synchros.
Honestly, you're probably going to need to be a bit more realistic about your goals - you can't have a featherlight, smooth-engaging clutch that will support 400whp unless you retrofit an LS clutch/fly into the car or something.
Reply
0
0
04-27-2011, 09:52 AM
#31
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,490
Total Cats: 4,079
having run 4 different clutches on my car...its easy to say I liked the pucked, while grabbed wickedly awesome, the least.
would i put it in a race car? without a thought.
another street car? no way. I'll stick with something light that can hold torque like the FMII.
I'm not saying it was difficult to drive, but it took conscience thought every time I would go form a stop light or in traffic. I could drive it and engage it as smooth as a street disc, but I found myself almost challenging myself during each drive. The times I did get it wrong, you look like a fool and caused the rear diff to make tons of noise.
Right now my clutch engages like stock and holds all my torque, so why would I want something that removes drivability and removes focus from my day dreaming into my left foot?
would i put it in a race car? without a thought.
another street car? no way. I'll stick with something light that can hold torque like the FMII.
I'm not saying it was difficult to drive, but it took conscience thought every time I would go form a stop light or in traffic. I could drive it and engage it as smooth as a street disc, but I found myself almost challenging myself during each drive. The times I did get it wrong, you look like a fool and caused the rear diff to make tons of noise.
Right now my clutch engages like stock and holds all my torque, so why would I want something that removes drivability and removes focus from my day dreaming into my left foot?
Reply
0
0
04-27-2011, 11:59 AM
#32
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 573
It's smaller than stock diameter, you have to have the corresponding flywheel. Same reason you can't put a 1.6 clutch on a 1.8 flywheel.
I have a 949 cerametallic twin. The engagement is shorter than the ACT HD/6-puck it replaced, but it engages more smoothly. As a street clutch it's probably doable, but it would be rough - it's really designed as a race clutch, the kind of clutch that allows you to snap off seamless 150ms shifts without raping the synchros.
Honestly, you're probably going to need to be a bit more realistic about your goals - you can't have a featherlight, smooth-engaging clutch that will support 400whp unless you retrofit an LS clutch/fly into the car or something.
I have a 949 cerametallic twin. The engagement is shorter than the ACT HD/6-puck it replaced, but it engages more smoothly. As a street clutch it's probably doable, but it would be rough - it's really designed as a race clutch, the kind of clutch that allows you to snap off seamless 150ms shifts without raping the synchros.
Honestly, you're probably going to need to be a bit more realistic about your goals - you can't have a featherlight, smooth-engaging clutch that will support 400whp unless you retrofit an LS clutch/fly into the car or something.
wear and driveability are truly a non-issue in my experience.
I actually started out with the cerametallic disks on my twins.
OH
MY
GOD
that sucked. great on track. but people laughed at me on the street. it was easier to spin the tires on a stock motor than to slip the clutch. so I did.
...
as for my used setup, at the very minimum it needs disks, and floater and pressure plates... and maybe a scuff on the flywheel.
at the most, it needs a new flywheel friction plate, pressure plate rebuild (might as well upgrade too), floaters, and disks. I don't have the costs for this stuff handy but for ALL of it, it might run 2-300 dollars.
I already have the custom pivot and push rod (ugly but functional push rod!) done.
and I'd probably sell the parts as-is for 350 shipped maybe?
would more people be likely to buy this thing if I did all the hard work and just sold it ready to install?
Reply
0
0
04-27-2011, 12:09 PM
#33
nah I'd stand by the organic twins with a firmer pressure plate for a street car. again with the caveat not to drive it in traffic every day. repeatedly stopping and starting over a short period without a chance to cool kills the floaters due to warpage. it would last much longer if you dont stop/start more than say twice per minute for periods longer than 10 minutes (i'm totally guessing what the conditions of traffic jams are).
wear and driveability are truly a non-issue in my experience.
I actually started out with the cerametallic disks on my twins.
OH
MY
GOD
that sucked. great on track. but people laughed at me on the street. it was easier to spin the tires on a stock motor than to slip the clutch. so I did.
...
as for my used setup, at the very minimum it needs disks, and floater and pressure plates... and maybe a scuff on the flywheel.
at the most, it needs a new flywheel friction plate, pressure plate rebuild (might as well upgrade too), floaters, and disks. I don't have the costs for this stuff handy but for ALL of it, it might run 2-300 dollars.
I already have the custom pivot and push rod (ugly but functional push rod!) done.
and I'd probably sell the parts as-is for 350 shipped maybe?
would more people be likely to buy this thing if I did all the hard work and just sold it ready to install?
wear and driveability are truly a non-issue in my experience.
I actually started out with the cerametallic disks on my twins.
OH
MY
GOD
that sucked. great on track. but people laughed at me on the street. it was easier to spin the tires on a stock motor than to slip the clutch. so I did.
...
as for my used setup, at the very minimum it needs disks, and floater and pressure plates... and maybe a scuff on the flywheel.
at the most, it needs a new flywheel friction plate, pressure plate rebuild (might as well upgrade too), floaters, and disks. I don't have the costs for this stuff handy but for ALL of it, it might run 2-300 dollars.
I already have the custom pivot and push rod (ugly but functional push rod!) done.
and I'd probably sell the parts as-is for 350 shipped maybe?
would more people be likely to buy this thing if I did all the hard work and just sold it ready to install?
If I were looking, I'd rather spend more money and have you do the hard work.
Reply
0
0
04-27-2011, 02:19 PM
#35
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
Just to clarify Sav.....Are you saying that you would prefer the twin-disc to the ACT extreme six puck on the street? I'm asking because I have the ACT xtreme six puck setup and it is very livable on the street without a lot of stop and go. So if the twin is better, then it sounds like it would be nice. I guess what I am saying is that something in between a 6puck and an organic disk would be ideal. I like how the 6-puck grabs.
The engagement on the 6-puck is sharper, but over a longer pedal travel area - the twin is a smoother engagement when it happens, but the pedal travel is SUPER short, which makes it a little tough to drive smoothly on the street. I can still slip the cerametallic discs up onto a trailer without an issue, though.
I've driven an organic 7.25" single disc - totally streetable. I bet the 7.25 organic twin is just as easy.
Reply
0
0
04-27-2011, 03:56 PM
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
Does the 949 Twin clutch have the same warpage issue that yours has y8s?
Mind you, when I got Big Gulp last year, the clutch had already been severely abused at that point and would slip occasionally, especially when running it REALLY hard....
But I did like the feel of the CF DF PP and the ACT HD Organic disc. Just too bad it can't hold the power.
Mind you, when I got Big Gulp last year, the clutch had already been severely abused at that point and would slip occasionally, especially when running it REALLY hard....
But I did like the feel of the CF DF PP and the ACT HD Organic disc. Just too bad it can't hold the power.
Last edited by viriiguy; 04-27-2011 at 04:15 PM.
Reply
0
0
