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Breaking in a motor and a clutch at the same time

Old 01-15-2014, 10:18 AM
  #21  
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Honest question: do you drive like a complete jackass all the time?

The way your'e making this sound, its like this car has a light switch instead of a gas pedal, and any type of driving is done at either 0% throttle or ALLOFIT
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
Dont buy new cars? The normal instructions written by lawyers for the lowest common denominator is to drive it like a grandmother for 1500 miles.
That wasn't the question. This car was new at one point, and ran 7-9psi. How was it broken in that allowed it to have great compression tests 212k miles later?

Originally Posted by thenuge26
Does your EWG point up like it does on the black car? Remove hood, remove EWG, break in engine with low boost.

I'm guessing 'part throttle for low boost' isn't going to happen anymore now that you have the TB with the single plate, right?
Nah, EWG goes back into the "exhaust." Removing it will result in a gigantic exhaust leak and probably an insane amount of heat in the engine bay.

Originally Posted by 18psi
Honest question: do you drive like a complete jackass all the time?

The way your'e making this sound, its like this car has a light switch instead of a gas pedal, and any type of driving is done at either 0% throttle or ALLOFIT
No, i don't. Usually i drive it like a damn grandma, but the concern here is that WOT during break in in the dead of winter is going to pose some problems.

I can just run it up and stay out of boost by modulating the go pedal, that's not a problem at all. (Ok, it's a little hard now with the modifications made to the throttle body, but i can manage) My concern is that that's really not putting any load at all on the motor. (At least... compared to WOT in higher gears.)

But if that doesn't matter, it doesn't matter. I can do a couple long slow pedaling 3rd gear pulls from 20mph to 90mph and let it decelerate if that's REALLY all it's going to take.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:30 AM
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Its worked perfectly for me all these years
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:20 AM
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I agree with 18psi, go drive around shifting every say 30 seconds to vary the rpm. At every stop use the engine to engine brake to a stop. Do a bunch of half throttle acceleration and engine braking. Seriously just go drive around for a couple of hours. Then you can start driving it normal. Then after a couple of days have fun, regardless of mileage. Your goal is to seat the rings and NOT glaze the clutch, KISS, dont be a dumbass. I ripped on my Boss 302 after 30 miles, smelled clutch, and chilled out. Gave it another day and started giving it hell. My 2012 was faster than a good friends 2013 who babied his IDK YMMV.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by concealer404

I can just run it up and stay out of boost by modulating the go pedal, that's not a problem at all. (Ok, it's a little hard now with the modifications made to the throttle body, but i can manage) My concern is that that's really not putting any load at all on the motor. (At least... compared to WOT in higher gears.)
100kpa is 100kpa, whether it is reached at full throttle like my sad NA or at partial throttle like it would take for your car.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by thenuge26
100kpa is 100kpa, whether it is reached at full throttle like my sad NA or at partial throttle like it would take for your car.
I guess i'm just having a hard time swallowing that a motor that's going to be run to 300kp and higher would only be broken in with 100kpa.

But hey, i'll try it. New rings are like... $27.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:37 AM
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You're not gonna seat the rings in any harder with even 500kpa

This isn't about gaping someone with your throbbing ****, these are small/thin piston rings
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
You're not gonna seat the rings in any harder with even 500kpa

This isn't about gaping someone with your throbbing ****, these are small/thin piston rings

I'll gape your face.
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