Hungry-R

I have 11.75 BBK from 949 and when I originally installed it, i bent the stock dust shield so that it would clear the rotor and the caliper bracket.
Under full lock (in parking lots) it started to make ticking noise.
I unbolted and fully removed the shield and the ticking went away.

When I went to the track it came back while driving. It seems to be load related as cornering hard with not alot of steering input (around 90 degrees)it will make the noise, but in parking lot it will not make the noise with the same input, only when close to full lock or at full lock.

I can't find any signs of rubbing, on the wheel, or suspension components.
I tried to clean the wheel mating surfaces as well, and i loosened the hub spindle nut and retightened and restaked it. (it tighted around 80 degrees more than before)

Originally, before removing the shield the clicking was present on both directions (I can't recall where the noise was coming from, I just assumed that they are coming from the shields and was going to remove them during track prep) When the clicking came back at the track it only happens during right turns and the clicking comes from front driver side wheel/hub/brake area.

I can't figure out whats going on... Do I just buy new hubs and hope that this will fix the problem?


Also another issue is that I used to have a clunk in a tight corner, which I believe is related to alignment bolts. but during the recent track day, the clunking was present in almost all corners and under hard braking. (sometimes i would get 2 consecutive smaller clunks during mid corner as opposed to 1 hard clunk). Since then if I tried to brake really hard on street, it would clunk as well.

I checked the alignment bolts and they were really tight i did tighten them another 45 degrees since I have ordered new ones from mazda to replace the current older style alignment bolts. Even though they are super tight now, i can still get a clunk under hard braking. Any ideas or previous experiences shared regarding these 2 noises would be really appriciated.

Hungry-R

I wanted to note that I have no wheel vertical or horizontal movement of wheel when on jack, ball joint has no play and the alignment (as far as going straight) does not change

bmxfuel007

iTrader: (21)

how are your control arm bushings? just something to look in to. It's possible things are shifting slightly under load

Hungry-R

I check the control arm bushing and they seem fine.

Here is a video of the clicking, it sound worse in the video

huesmann

iTrader: (1)

Got any witness marks anywhere? Have you taken the wheel off?

Hungry-R

I took the wheel off and no visual rubbing marks anywhere

Hungry-R

In order to diagnose this further, i swapper the left and right hubs. They seem to be the oem ntn hubs but both hubs' rubber seal of the bearing at the spindle side is blown all the way around.

After i swapped the left and right hubs, i still get clicking on the driver side.

My hubs have no play, (option 1) is it better to buy ebay specials and used those seals to repack my ntn hubs or (option 2) repack used low mile stock ones or (option 3) repack new timken units?

I am gonna get one of the options and try to see if clicking still continues

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

<p>What makes you think this is hub related? the sound is very tinny (at least in the video) - makes me thing it's brake hardware or something.&nbsp;</p>

Hungry-R

I don't know, what it could be.... i just know i have to fix hubs because both seals are blown.
What would make the ticking happen in the brakes when cornering? Ticking did start after i installed the brakes, but what part could it be?

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

<p></p><p>Well that's definitely important info - I would check the brake pad guides (these things)&nbsp;to see if they're hitting the rotor. Check to make sure your dust shield isn't bent. Basically get the wheel off and spin the rotor to see if you can recreate the sound and isolate from&nbsp;there.</p>

wannafbody

iTrader: (1)

A clunking sound could be eccentrics. I had that type of sound and replacing the eccentrics solved the issue.

Hungry-R

I noted in my original post hat this happened after i installed 11.75 bbks. I tried so hard to recreate this sound with the car on the hoist, but i can not replicate it off the groub. Also, I already removed my dust shield because i thought that was the original problem. Can you think of any other cause of ticking?

huesmann

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a frequency idea on the ticking, and if so, is it approximately equal to 1 revolution of the wheel?

Hungry-R

I think i solved the problem.
I took the pads out and saw that there was a lip forming on the pads both inside and outside on the lower section of the pad.
I attached a picture of where it rubs on the rotor and the pads.

I took sand paper to remove the edge and then some more.

Its interesting that the passenger side doesnt tick like this but i will be pulling the passenger side pads as well to sand the lip of the pads because i can see from the rotor that pads are touching below the rotor surface.

Its the stock wilwod pads, I have dtc60s coming, and i hope they dont wear like this.

Anyone else have this problem with 11.75 bbk?

Hungry-R

picture attaching seem broken, so I uploaded them somewhere else

bmxfuel007

iTrader: (21)

Mine also had/has that problem, although no clicking, but I did notice that the pads were not aligned perfectly. I also sanded down the edge of the pad. stock wilwood bp-10 pad

I have some hawk dtc-30's going on eventually

Got my bbk from 949racing