gman3

If you take the Pressure plate off are the fingers still bent back or are they being forced back by the disk? Your pic number 3 shows the PP not flush with the fly wheel, thats not right. I think bad disk or labelled wrong and in backwards

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Seeing the springs doesn't mean the disc is not backwards and the pp is not pulled against the flywheel in the pics. Please take it the rest of the way apart and check everything.

The thicker "hump" in the disc needs to be away from the flywheel.

92Miata

iTrader: (3)

As olderguy said the PP is not installed all the way.

So either you installed the disk wrong or you didnt tighten the PP down enough.

Wardsweb

The should not be a gap here. See attachement

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

+1 to the PP not being pulled up flush to the flywheel.

ALso, that throwout bearing doesn't look right either. Not sure, but it appears to be installed backwards too.

gman3

throw out bearing is installed correctly you can tell by the kind of flange that connects 2 sides to the pivot arm

akaryrye

iTrader: (5)

i figured he had loosened the PP so i didnt mention that.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

The throwout bearing is mounted correctly.

Two things to check:

1) Make sure that the release arm is all the way down on the pivot point.

2) make sure that your clutch disc is installed right... the hub should be facing the pressure plate, not the flywheel.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Mine looks like this, hence why I suspect the TOB. From his pic the TOB would have to contact the PP from the "inner" circle.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

And after further review, I still say his TOB is wrong. It looks "loose" on the input shaft. Like it's got a gap down at the bottom. Anybody else see what I'm talking about?

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

I see the gap you are talking about. Could be the wrong bearing was supplied with the clutch.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Back to basics.

What is the motor?

What is the flywheel?

What is the clutch?

We aren't trying to put the wrong clutch/disc/flywheel together, are we?

turbobluemiata

iTrader: (8)

1.6 motor
bought the flywheel pp and together stated as a 1.6
so I bought an ACT 1.6 disc
and the TOB is mazda OEM
and I torqued all of the bolts to spec??

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Me thinks you have the wrong TOB and a 1.8 disk. Pull that PP off and take pictures with a tape measure across everything. IE-measuring the flywheel, PP, disk, and also see if the TOB will wiggle up and down on the input shaft.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

Is that an ACT PP? Extreme I guess? I have an ACT HDsitting right here, and it looks quite a bit thinner than that one. Maybe the extreme has a thicker PP body since it has a higher clamp force. Still wouldnt explain why yours isnt working like it should. Did you get a possotive click from the spring clip on the fork when it seated on the ball? I had one do something similar once and it was being held off its seat by 1/2'' or so, but it snapped in place when I first started it and pumped the clutch.

If that picture of the PP to flywheel is how it is in the car, then something is wrong. Im hoping you just took those to show inside better... or something.

Im gonna say backwards disk. Looking at mine, when its backwards it hold it off about that much, and looks similar through the hole. If its not backwards, something is hold ing it off. Tightening the PP so that it sits on the flywheel will cause the teeth on the clutch PP to stick out less, and allow the fork to move back a good bit. I say thats your problem.

turbobluemiata

iTrader: (8)

Well i got those pictures of the clutch taken out and I looked over the transmission and the fork wasn't pushed all the way on the pivot point But what about the gap between the pp and flywheel? I took pictures and measured everything The flywheel was just shy of 8" along with the pp and disk and the disk has a sticker saying which is the flywheel side

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

You likely didn't draw the PP up flush against the flywheel. You should put all the bolts in HAND TIGHT. Then use a criss-cross pattern and draw them in 1/2 of a turn at a time. IE- run the in by hand, then get a ratchet and socket and turn a bolt exactly 1/2 of a turn, then go to the opposite bolt, farthest away from the one you just tightened, and turn it exactly 1/2 of a turn. Then pick another bolt and repeat. Once you've done 6, repeat. Do it 42 times and it should pull up flush. Then torque the bolts all to 10 ft*lbs, again, using the same criss-cross pattern. Then 20 ft*lbs, etc in 10 ft*lb increments till you reach your target torque.

Hopefully a 1.6' er here will go measure they're clutch and make sure yours is the right size.

And I retract what I said earlier. TOB looks fine.

turbobluemiata

iTrader: (8)

isnt final torque 27?

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Hehe, haynes manual shows 14-19.... Mine are at like 35. Whoops. Oh well. In one of your pics the bolt isn't even drawed up flush against the PP. Look at it.

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

yes 27 ft / lbs. ive read the install about 5 times for the clutch job. my act ZM2-XTSS and prolite flywheel should be here thursday. this will make for a fun install. Btw did u replace any of the accesable seals?