Slave cyilinder options...
11-18-2010, 09:55 PM
#1
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Slave cyilinder options...
I am curious, are there any higher performing, longer lasting clutch slave cylinder options out there for these cars?
My slave cylinder is on its way out again, this is the 5th slave cylinder since I have gotten the car. I dont understand because its not like I drive the car hard, nor do I bang gears or act a fool in anyway. I daily drive this car, and it is constantly going through slave cylinder.
It has an ACT HD clutch, and a braided clutch line (the one that replaces the hose, not the curly Q). I had 4 go out before I even put the ACT in?
Do I just keep replacing these things at least like 1 or 2 every 10 months or is there a higher performing more durable one out there?
Any input guys?
My slave cylinder is on its way out again, this is the 5th slave cylinder since I have gotten the car. I dont understand because its not like I drive the car hard, nor do I bang gears or act a fool in anyway. I daily drive this car, and it is constantly going through slave cylinder.
It has an ACT HD clutch, and a braided clutch line (the one that replaces the hose, not the curly Q). I had 4 go out before I even put the ACT in?
Do I just keep replacing these things at least like 1 or 2 every 10 months or is there a higher performing more durable one out there?
Any input guys?
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11-19-2010, 01:45 AM
#3
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I have planned on an ebay slave/master cylinder kit, they are $50 shipped for both new, cant beat that I say. I just was wondering if there was another slave cylinder option that was better performing/longer lasting. I know from messin' with F bodies, they have option for "high performance" slave cylinders, and so do some other. Just checking my options I guess.
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11-19-2010, 08:20 AM
#4
I'm still rocking my OE '94 slave on my FM Supersize Happy Meal. When I got my MSM 6-speed a year ago, the slave was sent with it, but the mountings were busted up pretty good. I pulled the pin and dust boot (which was heavily deteriorated and falling apart) off of my 94 slave and put the MSM pin and dust boot in the '94 slave.
So: a slave every 10 months? You've got a different problem destroying your slaves. OE Slave cylinders aren't weaksauce. What fluid are you using in your clutch?
So: a slave every 10 months? You've got a different problem destroying your slaves. OE Slave cylinders aren't weaksauce. What fluid are you using in your clutch?
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11-19-2010, 02:09 PM
#5
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Local Advance Auto Wearever DOT 3, when I pulled the transmission for the clutch back in the summer I bled the ENTIRE clutch hydraulic system, seemed to really help the clutch out but now its just garbage.
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11-19-2010, 03:24 PM
#6
You obviously work on your own car, so why aren't you using the slave and/or MC REBUILD kits instead of replacing them? They are $10-$12 at any autoparts store, take 10 minutes and a piece of emery cloth to do. I have done one on each of the last four Miatas that I have owned, but never had to do a multiple repair. I keep one of each in my home shop so I'm never SOL.
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11-19-2010, 03:42 PM
#7
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I've had almost non stop clutch issues since I've had my car for around 3 years. I've bought a new master and two new slaves (yeehaw, two new slaves, cotton productions gonna be good!!!), along with stainless line to support my ACT Stage 1 clutch. Having just replaced the slave maybe 8-10 months ago, with good fluid on a full bleed, the damn thing started to act up again last week. It goes spongy at traffic lights and stop signs, and I have to give it the wild pump before attempting to start off or else it will engage at the floor and away I go without wanting to. I had to pull the e-brake to shut my car off the other day backing out of the driveway to avoid pulling into traffic, I couldn't force it out of reverse and the clutch pedal was gone. It's becoming quite a bother having to bleed and/or replace components every goddamn 6-12 months.
It also decides when to do this. Some days it's better than others, some days not at all. Then some days it worse and the pedal goes to the floor nearly for every shift and I drive around having to pump the pedal just to prepare for a shift, so I've been doing a lot of clutchless shifting lately.
It also decides when to do this. Some days it's better than others, some days not at all. Then some days it worse and the pedal goes to the floor nearly for every shift and I drive around having to pump the pedal just to prepare for a shift, so I've been doing a lot of clutchless shifting lately.
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11-19-2010, 03:48 PM
#8
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What is causing the failures? If you are experiencing wear related failures, try compressing the new slave and wiping some grease lightly on the exposed walls of the cylinder to prevent rusting. Make sure to put a dab of grease inside the socket of the slave piston and inside the boot. This can help to capture debris before it gets to the cylinder wall and help prevent corrosion.
Is there a possibility that the alignment of the cylinder to the clutch release arm might be slightly askew? This could cause the piston to dig into the cylinder causing accelerated wear. It would, at the least, cause a deformation of the rubber cup and/or sealing ring.
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11-19-2010, 03:55 PM
#9
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I've had almost non stop clutch issues since I've had my car for around 3 years. I've bought a new master and two new slaves (yeehaw, two new slaves, cotton productions gonna be good!!!), along with stainless line to support my ACT Stage 1 clutch. Having just replaced the slave maybe 8-10 months ago, with good fluid on a full bleed, the damn thing started to act up again last week. It goes spongy at traffic lights and stop signs, and I have to give it the wild pump before attempting to start off or else it will engage at the floor and away I go without wanting to. I had to pull the e-brake to shut my car off the other day backing out of the driveway to avoid pulling into traffic, I couldn't force it out of reverse and the clutch pedal was gone. It's becoming quite a bother having to bleed and/or replace components every goddamn 6-12 months.
It also decides when to do this. Some days it's better than others, some days not at all. Then some days it worse and the pedal goes to the floor nearly for every shift and I drive around having to pump the pedal just to prepare for a shift, so I've been doing a lot of clutchless shifting lately.
It also decides when to do this. Some days it's better than others, some days not at all. Then some days it worse and the pedal goes to the floor nearly for every shift and I drive around having to pump the pedal just to prepare for a shift, so I've been doing a lot of clutchless shifting lately.
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11-19-2010, 05:08 PM
#10
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+1
What is causing the failures? If you are experiencing wear related failures, try compressing the new slave and wiping some grease lightly on the exposed walls of the cylinder to prevent rusting. Make sure to put a dab of grease inside the socket of the slave piston and inside the boot. This can help to capture debris before it gets to the cylinder wall and help prevent corrosion.
Is there a possibility that the alignment of the cylinder to the clutch release arm might be slightly askew? This could cause the piston to dig into the cylinder causing accelerated wear. It would, at the least, cause a deformation of the rubber cup and/or sealing ring.
What is causing the failures? If you are experiencing wear related failures, try compressing the new slave and wiping some grease lightly on the exposed walls of the cylinder to prevent rusting. Make sure to put a dab of grease inside the socket of the slave piston and inside the boot. This can help to capture debris before it gets to the cylinder wall and help prevent corrosion.
Is there a possibility that the alignment of the cylinder to the clutch release arm might be slightly askew? This could cause the piston to dig into the cylinder causing accelerated wear. It would, at the least, cause a deformation of the rubber cup and/or sealing ring.
Is the Mazdaspeed slave cylinder any different then the NA 1.8s or the lower model NBs? Maybe the pin is longer making engagement of the slave faster because of less travel?
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11-19-2010, 05:40 PM
#11
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Man this sure is weird. I've replaced both my slave and master only once in one year but they were original. I also beat the **** out of mine and I have a 6 puck and lightweight flywheel. Maybe is it the way you drive? Or your cars posessed! lol
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11-20-2010, 10:22 AM
#15
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Did you ever change to that superawesome braided steel clutch line that everybody recommends instead of stock? I can't remember who sells it but it really helped with my sponginess. Now I am rock hard all the time. I'll try to remember where I bought it unless somebody else chimes in.
My car disgusts me sometimes. It does this little nitpicky **** just to discourage me from doing anything major to it, and it's doing a good job seeing as I'm 3 years into ownership and it's still mostly unmolested.
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11-20-2010, 03:10 PM
#16
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^^ just be glad its not an alfa. the brake pedal on my alfa would go straight to the floor in cold mornings. on hot days, i would be driving along in 1st gear and the front brakes would lock whenever i hit a patch of gravel. damndest thing. one morning i forgot to pump the pedal and i ran through the gate at the apartments. cost me 250 bux to get it fixed.
whats the deal with the miata clutch? (i've never owned a mazda drivetrain so i haven't seen the pain point). is air getting in there? i can see it if the clutch slave leaks out some fluid, which lowers the fluid level in the reservoir, which in turn lets air get sucked into the line. but you would see brake fluid on your garage floor, and i haven't seen that mentioned. wtf
whats the deal with the miata clutch? (i've never owned a mazda drivetrain so i haven't seen the pain point). is air getting in there? i can see it if the clutch slave leaks out some fluid, which lowers the fluid level in the reservoir, which in turn lets air get sucked into the line. but you would see brake fluid on your garage floor, and i haven't seen that mentioned. wtf
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11-23-2010, 03:30 AM
#19
I've had almost non stop clutch issues since I've had my car for around 3 years. I've bought a new master and two new slaves (yeehaw, two new slaves, cotton productions gonna be good!!!), along with stainless line to support my ACT Stage 1 clutch. Having just replaced the slave maybe 8-10 months ago, with good fluid on a full bleed, the damn thing started to act up again last week. It goes spongy at traffic lights and stop signs, and I have to give it the wild pump before attempting to start off or else it will engage at the floor and away I go without wanting to. I had to pull the e-brake to shut my car off the other day backing out of the driveway to avoid pulling into traffic, I couldn't force it out of reverse and the clutch pedal was gone. It's becoming quite a bother having to bleed and/or replace components every goddamn 6-12 months.
It also decides when to do this. Some days it's better than others, some days not at all. Then some days it worse and the pedal goes to the floor nearly for every shift and I drive around having to pump the pedal just to prepare for a shift, so I've been doing a lot of clutchless shifting lately.
It also decides when to do this. Some days it's better than others, some days not at all. Then some days it worse and the pedal goes to the floor nearly for every shift and I drive around having to pump the pedal just to prepare for a shift, so I've been doing a lot of clutchless shifting lately.
Having the pedal go to the floor is not a good feeling, especially the first time it happened...
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