I made a poor clutch decision and now I don't know the torque value
10-19-2014, 11:49 PM
#1
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I made a poor clutch decision and now I don't know the torque value
So I have been running a Competition Clutch Stage 4 and it's been fine aside from chattering at low speeds. It's a sprung 4 puck that just seems to hit perfect resonance when slowing in gear which causes bucking every so often. That's beside the point.
I pulled the clutch and flywheel to take to machine shop to balance with the new rotating assembly. For whatever reason, when contemplating power goals, I decided to look up the torque rating for the clutch.
Competition Clutch's, henceforth CC, website states 225 wheel torque when looking through the catalog (p/n 10045-1620), yet ALL vendors state a 250% increase in torque capacity for all 1.8L models. 225 torque seems what-the-**** low for a ceramic pucked clutch. An arbitrary percentage increase seems like marketing ploy. I had already dynoed 273 torque before my motor blew so I don't know what to think about CC's published numbers.
I really need to delegate fundage to getting my car back and would rather not have to buy a new clutch since this has but 6000 miles on it. Then again, I'd hate to revisit this if it becomes a weak point and I'm pretty much planning on a EFR6758 for the next build with VVT.
IF i assume the highest torque given by a stock miata from the blanket 94-05 range is 125 ft-lb and figure a 250% increase in capacity....
125*(1+2.5)= 437.5 ft-lb.
Numbers conflict a little, almost by a factor of 2. I want to believe the vendors advertising this clutch (so I don't have to buy a new one), but realistically, I have no clue what this clutch is rated for as numbers seem bogus from the company directly.
Anyone know of or had experience with Competition Clutch kits?
I pulled the clutch and flywheel to take to machine shop to balance with the new rotating assembly. For whatever reason, when contemplating power goals, I decided to look up the torque rating for the clutch.
Competition Clutch's, henceforth CC, website states 225 wheel torque when looking through the catalog (p/n 10045-1620), yet ALL vendors state a 250% increase in torque capacity for all 1.8L models. 225 torque seems what-the-**** low for a ceramic pucked clutch. An arbitrary percentage increase seems like marketing ploy. I had already dynoed 273 torque before my motor blew so I don't know what to think about CC's published numbers.
I really need to delegate fundage to getting my car back and would rather not have to buy a new clutch since this has but 6000 miles on it. Then again, I'd hate to revisit this if it becomes a weak point and I'm pretty much planning on a EFR6758 for the next build with VVT.
IF i assume the highest torque given by a stock miata from the blanket 94-05 range is 125 ft-lb and figure a 250% increase in capacity....
125*(1+2.5)= 437.5 ft-lb.
Numbers conflict a little, almost by a factor of 2. I want to believe the vendors advertising this clutch (so I don't have to buy a new one), but realistically, I have no clue what this clutch is rated for as numbers seem bogus from the company directly.
Anyone know of or had experience with Competition Clutch kits?
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10-20-2014, 12:12 AM
#4
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huh. I can't math?
If something experiences an increase of 100%, then it's total amount in reference to the original value is effectively doubled. 100% increase of 100apples is 200 apples.
((New torque - old toque) / old torque)*100 = percent change?
therefore if old torgue is 125 and percent change is 250.... new torque isn't 437.5?
even at 312.5 as advertised by vendors, what to make of the manufacturers 225?
Should I just run it and give no *****?
If something experiences an increase of 100%, then it's total amount in reference to the original value is effectively doubled. 100% increase of 100apples is 200 apples.
((New torque - old toque) / old torque)*100 = percent change?
therefore if old torgue is 125 and percent change is 250.... new torque isn't 437.5?
even at 312.5 as advertised by vendors, what to make of the manufacturers 225?
Should I just run it and give no *****?
Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 10-20-2014 at 12:24 AM.
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10-20-2014, 03:58 AM
#10
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I have seen some vendors sell clutches with the torque rating at the wheels... that would make the two different specs make sense together if one is at the wheels and the other is at the flywheel.
Keith
Keith
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10-20-2014, 08:24 AM
#11
huh. I can't math?
If something experiences an increase of 100%, then it's total amount in reference to the original value is effectively doubled. 100% increase of 100apples is 200 apples.
((New torque - old toque) / old torque)*100 = percent change?
therefore if old torgue is 125 and percent change is 250.... new torque isn't 437.5?
even at 312.5 as advertised by vendors, what to make of the manufacturers 225?
Should I just run it and give no *****?
If something experiences an increase of 100%, then it's total amount in reference to the original value is effectively doubled. 100% increase of 100apples is 200 apples.
((New torque - old toque) / old torque)*100 = percent change?
therefore if old torgue is 125 and percent change is 250.... new torque isn't 437.5?
even at 312.5 as advertised by vendors, what to make of the manufacturers 225?
Should I just run it and give no *****?
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10-20-2014, 12:03 PM
#15
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Obviously if i were to do this from scratch again and money being no object I'd suppose I could buy all the twin disks and never look back. That being said if I were to do this ever again, I wouldn't. I'd just put a v8 in the car.
If my current, perfectly usable, clutch still works for my goal, then I'd rather spend the money on headwork for the oversized valves.
Unfortunately, I lack disposable income so weighing my options seems more reasonable than "just get X and don't look back."
I appreciate the input. I know what to get if/when this clutch roasts
If my current, perfectly usable, clutch still works for my goal, then I'd rather spend the money on headwork for the oversized valves.
Unfortunately, I lack disposable income so weighing my options seems more reasonable than "just get X and don't look back."
I appreciate the input. I know what to get if/when this clutch roasts
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10-24-2014, 08:25 AM
#18
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I replaced my ACT HDSS with a FM2 clutch what back in 2010. I honestly have no problems with the ACT clutches, and I think they are good. I just see the FM clutches as being a bit cheaper and holding more torque then the ACT equivalent.
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