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Old 09-01-2016, 01:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
On the turbo DD:
OEM 1.8 brakes with recently overhauled calipers, centric rotors, Goodridge steel braided lines and StopTech Street Performance pads (pretty inexpensive from Rock Auto). Fresh DOT4 fluid.

On track car:
Front: Early Goodwin front BBK with Wilwood Dynalites, Wilwood GT72 11" rotors, 949 steel braided lines, Trackspeed Engineering cooling ducts and PFC01 pads (switched from Carbotech XP10s)
Rear: OEM 1.8 rears, 949 steel braided lines and PFC11 pads (switched from Carbotech XP8s)
Fresh DOT4 fluid and cockpit-controllable proportioning valve (cockpit control makes it easy to adjust the first time out -- you never really touch it after that)

The main advantage to the BBKs is pad wear, not stopping power. The BBK came on the car when I bought it (also had a rear BBK that I removed due to suckage). To be honest, every time I get out of my track car and back into my DD, I marvel at how wonderful the brakes feel with a firm, high pedal. Part of that is the PFCs naturally feel more "squishy" than some other pads (they modulate beautifully though). But a lot of it is that Mazda blessed the Miata with some really nice brakes. I've been thinking about returning the front of the track car to OEM and dealing with more frequent pad replacement to recover some NASA TT points.

Given your driving, I can state unequivocally that all you need is well maintained OEM brakes with some nice pads. Take a look at those StopTechs, much less expensive with easier-to-clean dust than the other options you mentioned.

Brain's description of successive 100mph stops during tuning is the most severe possible brake use. You won't even see that on track and no braking system will stand up to that for any length of time. Heck, that's how I used to go out and overheat my Carbotech race pads with a BBK for bedding purposes.

You're doing the right thing coming here. Be careful of what you read on vendor websites . . . they're selling stuff. IMHO, the best one for straight talk is Emilio's (949).

Of course, if you want a BBK because of looks, that's your business and it's fine with me.
Wow great reply!! did a little looking on the StopTech Street Performance pads and I feel they will fit my application pretty well, people say a little more brake dust but I can certainty deal with that if they are as easy to clean off as people say. Found them on rock auto and amazon (and more but thoes seemed the best options) I will just have to price them out with shipping but rock auto looks cheaper at this point. Now onto the rotors, I was thinking of going with 949's stock replacement centric rotors but I see some different options on amazon and other places for cheaper and or with corrosion protection (look to be pained black as well where the pad does not contact) Thoughts? Centric is centric right? Also rotor science is something i'm not up to speed on so if anyone would care to set me straight or guide me in the right direction that would be appreciated. Strongly considering the ST pads and new rotors i'm just not sure what rotors to choose. Thanks!
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Old 09-01-2016, 09:49 AM   #22
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Rotors you need nothing fancy. Just a decent brand so the casting is fine. I run the Centric Premium ones, they are $14 and $12 off rock auto for the 1.6. 1.8 is a hair more if I remeber right.
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Old 09-01-2016, 10:43 AM   #23
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I run stoptech + centric at the rear.
Could't be happier. Easily the best vfm combination right now for a street car.
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Old 09-01-2016, 12:53 PM   #24
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Watch for a sale on Rock Auto too. I got a set of the blinged-out Centrics (cryo blah-blah with some kind of black coating in the hat area) for less than the regular Centrics for my DD. The black coating has held up and still looks good several years later, so . . . score! Function wise, I seriously doubt there's any difference.

I wish the Wilwood rotors were as inexpensive as OEM.
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Old 09-01-2016, 02:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Watch for a sale on Rock Auto too. I got a set of the blinged-out Centrics (cryo blah-blah with some kind of black coating in the hat area) for less than the regular Centrics for my DD. The black coating has held up and still looks good several years later, so . . . score! Function wise, I seriously doubt there's any difference.

I wish the Wilwood rotors were as inexpensive as OEM.
The 11.75" Wilwoods in the TSE kit are -- the replacement friction rings are $32 each.

--Ian
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:11 PM   #26
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Just want to give a big thank you to everyone who has helped me on this topic. I installed and bedded the stoptech pad and centric rotots (+ new fluid and bleed) today and there is a huge difference in the way it breaks and the feel of the pedal relation to actuall stopping power. Thank You!
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:28 PM   #27
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I will add that a 2350lb NB, 225/15 RS3s,~210whp/170wtq Rotrex with NB sport brakes and XP10 / XP8 rear, NB ABS, 949 braided lines, Trackspeed 2" brake ducts routed to fog light openings, ATE fluid were not even close to keeping up on a 100*F ambient day at Thunderhill raceway in Norcal. By the end of the day it felt borderline unsafe. Besides cutting weight and using larger brake ducts I don't see how a street-able at all brake setup using OEM calipers could be given a more favorable chance. I've tried XP12s before and the amount of squeaking they produce is unacceptable on the street.

I'm planning on going with a V8R radial kit to avoid having to up the pad compound.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:38 PM   #28
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Quote:
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I will add that a 2350lb NB, 225/15 RS3s,~210whp/170wtq Rotrex with NB sport brakes and XP10 / XP8 rear, NB ABS, 949 braided lines, Trackspeed 2" brake ducts routed to fog light openings, ATE fluid were not even close to keeping up on a 100*F ambient day at Thunderhill raceway in Norcal. By the end of the day it felt borderline unsafe. Besides cutting weight and using larger brake ducts I don't see how a street-able at all brake setup using OEM calipers could be given a more favorable chance. I've tried XP12s before and the amount of squeaking they produce is unacceptable on the street.

I'm planning on going with a V8R radial kit to avoid having to up the pad compound.
Your problem is the pads, a V8R radial kit isn't going to help if you're not willing to put decent track pads in it. They're easy to swap, do it before/after the track day and you'll be fine.

--Ian
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:13 PM   #29
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Your problem is the pads, a V8R radial kit isn't going to help if you're not willing to put decent track pads in it. They're easy to swap, do it before/after the track day and you'll be fine.

--Ian
Are you implying that XP10s are not good enough pads? I hope not. I don't have personal experience with a BBK yet but I would expect the larger heatsink to expel heat better, thus require a lower operating temperature range on the pads. This I'm hoping will keep me from needing XP12s or above.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:29 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sforsancho View Post
Are you implying that XP10s are not good enough pads? I hope not. I don't have personal experience with a BBK yet but I would expect the larger heatsink to expel heat better, thus require a lower operating temperature range on the pads. This I'm hoping will keep me from needing XP12s or above.
I have never used the XP10s, so I can't address them specifically. That said, my general experience is that there is no such thing as a true dual purpose brake pad, suitable for both hard track use and general street use.

--Ian
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:49 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sforsancho View Post
Are you implying that XP10s are not good enough pads? I hope not. I don't have personal experience with a BBK yet but I would expect the larger heatsink to expel heat better, thus require a lower operating temperature range on the pads. This I'm hoping will keep me from needing XP12s or above.
In 100F heat, XP10s were giving up on my 135HP car with an 11" BBK and 2" cooling ducts. They were overheating and splotching onto the rotor causing vibrations. 100F is tough, man.
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:40 PM   #32
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I wonder if PFC or Cobalt would hold up to the heat better?
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:48 PM   #33
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I wonder if PFC or Cobalt would hold up to the heat better?
There are plenty of pads that will take the heat, it's just that they come with all of the "eat rotors when cold, noisy, and tons of dust" compromises inherent to track pads.

--Ian
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Old 10-12-2016, 11:03 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
In 100F heat, XP10s were giving up on my 135HP car with an 11" BBK and 2" cooling ducts. They were overheating and splotching onto the rotor causing vibrations. 100F is tough, man.
This is very very useful info, thank you. Will take this into consideration. I'll probably try them on the 11.75 kit and report back, then progress to >> 2.5" ducting then >> XP12 or above.
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:42 AM   #35
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I switched to PFC and am a lot happier with them.
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