Originally Posted by mr_hyde
...I have the little one on a toggle switch on the dash right next to my EBC toggle...
Can you comment on lap times with the system on/off in various conditions? Are you running OEM brake pads and rotors? You said you have NT01s - what size are they?
I will write a few things which probably most of you know, but maybe didn't think of them all at the same time:
Static friction is higher than kinetic friction (in general) which means that a tire skidding (kinetic friction) has less grip than a tire on the limit of skidding; so if we can have the tires on the verge of slipping ALL THE TIME while braking (for that matter also while accelerating) it would reduce braking distance etc. all the good stuff.
With tires being ~hyperelastic materials things are not as straight forward as Coulomb friction, and they generate maximum grip when they're stretched slightly (when they're cornering this is the slip angle, when braking/accelerating it's called a slip ratio: read more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slip_ratio
So slip ratio around 20% is optimal (is this true about all tires - definitely not, just like optimal slip angle is not a constant for all tires). For the sake of argument, let's say 20% is ideal for all tires.
So how does the ABS work: it measures wheel rpm, it measure vehicle speed and it figures out what the slip is when the brakes are applied. You just keep you foot down and it "cycles" the pressure in the caliper lines so that the wheels stay around optimal slip (there's a lot more going on, but that's the essential part). Just from the essentials I can see a few things which may make factory ABS on a non-factory tire/wheel/rotor/brake pad combo non-ideal:
-maximum grip slip ratio may change
-if tire diameter changes wheel slip is not calculated correctly from wheel rpm
-changing ultimate tire friction coefficient has an effect on ABS system
-changing brake rotor inertial properties has an effect on ABS system
-change brake pad friction coefficient has an effect on ABS system
Now, I've corded a few R6s and know the feeling in my stomach every time I see/hear a tire lock up, but I feel that I'm paying for R6s in order to get the ultimate grip from them in every direction, so not being able to use them optimally with factory ABS would BRAKE my heart
ABS comes with a "map" just as any other ECU, so if you're "map" is not tuned for your braking system it will not function at its best.
Am I a good enough driver to make a non-ABS car go around a track faster than the factory ABS... no idea
Nik - very good at Need For Speed III Hot Pursuit