frostyllama

iTrader: (3)

alright, so i've searched around a lot. basically i've got a sixspeed out of an 02 se with about 22k, and the levnubhin's old 4.1 torsen. because of extenuating circumstances, and the fact that i wont be building the engine any time soon i'm stuck with about a 250rwhp limit.

my question is:

do i go with an fm clutch and stick with the whole bullet proof plan? or do (can) i save money with an reliable alternative w/ flywheel setup, used possibly? i'd like to avoid pucks because i don't want to do my sixspeed like that.


i feel a little hard pressed to buy the fm clutch which can support around 300, when i know i won't be breaching that sexcap.

frostyllama

iTrader: (3)

i think i have to come to the realization that it's puck, fm1 or =< priced units

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Get the FM stage 1. I have one and love it, and I make less than 230whp.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You either go with a cheap ebay clutch and hope it holds/works/lasts or you go ACT or FM. The FM is cheaper then ACT. So go with the FM and just know you will not be buying a new clutch for a long long time.

miatamike203

For the price of the FM clutch its worth it. The ebay clutches I wouldn't trust I know some people here have had good luck with them but its still a 50/50 chance. Also I had a six puck non sprung hub clutch in my miata with a six speed and loved it. The only thing with a puk style clutch is the engagement is going to be harsh and you need to rev the engine higher to engage it or you will end up breaking drive train parts. I know this because the guy I sold my miata to dropped the diff out of it with in 2 days of owning the car. When I let him test drive it the sounds that came from the drive train where horrid. He stalled 90% of the time because he was too scared of reving the motor higher to engage the clutch. So if you go with a puk clutch you must rev you engine up to 2k or even some times high just to engage the clutch or you will break something from the drive train chatter.

frostyllama

iTrader: (3)

i'm pretty much sold on the fm at this point. but a six puck sprung would be less jarring on the drive train right?

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

its a sprung organic clutch for crying out loud, the only "jarring" you're going to be able to do is if you clutch drop launches all day. Always get the absolute best parts you can afford now. The alternative is getting cheaper parts now, and then realizing several months down the road that your second rate parts aren't cutting it. You will still end up buying the best parts you can afford, but you will have wasted money on the second best parts you can afford, and you'll be pulling a 6-speed again.....

Just sayin'

saedrin

iTrader: (2)

I love my FM2 clutch, engages smooth and doesn't mind abuse in the least.

frostyllama

iTrader: (3)

he said he had an unsprung six puck. i think i'm buying the fm at this point, i was just trying to make a contrast reference for searchers.

also, i know organics are much gentler, thats why i said this in my first post:

i do agree with you on the best parts at the moment thing.

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

I'm running a Competition Clutch 6-puck sprung w/FM10lb flywheel and the clutch shudder was pretty bad with the shitty stock engine mounts. Switching to the 2004-2005 Mazdaspeed Miata (NOT MazdaComp) engine mounts solved about 96% of clutch shudder. I am happy with it.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

There's a saying around these parts: Once you go pucked, you know you got fucked.

soloracer

iTrader: (10)

Threadjack-

What was the consensus on identifying which mounts were which? I'm about to order new mounts as a preventative measure before I mount my turbo manifold (figured I may as well while it's all torn apart, right?) and I'm not quite sure what to get or who to get it from.

frostyllama

iTrader: (3)

things i want that cost more money and i probably won't get make me sad.


from what i read, you had some pretty bad experiences. i think i would blow up the car if i had to replace/fix a clutch i just installed. i get angry enough when i have to do the ******* brakes 3 times.

frostyllama

iTrader: (3)

bought the FM1 a little while ago.

also going with a lightened stock flywheel.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Good job. Now just be happy you only have to change the clutch once for a long long time.

Sexi_Mia

I hope you have better luck with your FM1 then I did with my FM2. It held the power but could not hold the heat. I couldn't image using it at track days. I was only using it on 1/8th mile drag runs and letting it cool between laps and still couldn't keep it from slipping due to heat.

FYI my car is 94 1.8l making roughly 220whp and was using an FM2.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Don't you dare say that. I went with a FM2 for track duty starting in the spring. If it does not hold up I will be pissed.

Sexi_Mia

I wish you better luck. I did not install the clutch. I know the guy who did and seen the rest of his work. Its pretty shotty. I bought the car and do all my own work. He could have done a number of things wrong. He had to of because I keep reading how good the FM Stage 2 is yet mine sucked so bad. I couldn't get 3 good runs in at the track on a slow night where many people weren't there. This is 1/8th mile drag racing. I couldn't imagine a track day where you're shifting hell of a lot more.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Did you ever call FM and ask them about it? Are you sure the guy actually installed and fm2?