My continuing big brake saga

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07-05-2011, 02:55 AM

#41

Savington

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I definitely wouldn't trust Loctite, I can see heat discoloration in the mounting wings on the rotor ring. We use Resbond there. I also like to see critical components wired.

07-05-2011, 10:50 AM

#42

Rennkafer

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Savington

I definitely wouldn't trust Loctite, I can see heat discoloration in the mounting wings on the rotor ring. We use Resbond there. I also like to see critical components wired.

Which is why we use jet nuts as well, the loctite is extra ins. I find it somewhat humorous that you'll trust Gr5 hardware but not loctite.

If you're using through bolts with nuts on the hats/rotors and safety wiring the bolt heads, how will that keep the nuts from loosening? Safety wiring the heads of bolts is more appropriate for blind hole applications.

07-05-2011, 10:59 AM

#43

hustler

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rennkafer

Vibration and sheer are two different things. He's using bolts.

07-05-2011, 11:01 AM

#44

hustler

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rennkafer

At work we use only AN hardware on brake hats with AN washers, jet nuts (MS-21042), and loctite, no safety wire. Never seen one get loose in 6 years... it's the only way I'd do it personally.

I don't care to be the first. When I'm going into turn #1 at TWS at 150mph, I'll appreciate that safetywire more than you will.

07-05-2011, 11:03 AM

#45

hustler

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Spookyfish

Just returned from the shop trying out new brake duct ideas.
I already have big 3" scoops in the bumper from which I will run 3" ducting that will end near the roll bar end-links as I have no 3" duct plate. In between there will be a 12v marine blower which moves volumes of air so it will cool at speed as well as pit-in.

I don't think you're going to need all that stuff for these massive brakes.

07-05-2011, 01:01 PM

#46

ZX-Tex

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rennkafer

If you're using through bolts with nuts on the hats/rotors and safety wiring the bolt heads, how will that keep the nuts from loosening? Safety wiring the heads of bolts is more appropriate for blind hole applications.

The hat/rotor bolts are not through-bolted. The hats are threaded.

Safety wire is the way to go. That is why it is required by several race organizations on critical fasteners, like brake hardware and oil drain plugs. My CMRA track bike has safety wire on several engine fasteners, brake fasteners, and several suspension components. You will not get through technical inspection without it.

Last edited by ZX-Tex; 07-08-2011 at 07:16 PM.

07-05-2011, 01:06 PM

#47

2manyhobyz

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The Locktite people said their stuff is good up to 400 F. Not adequate for brake stuff IMO.
Sav, do you offer small bottles of Resbond?

07-05-2011, 03:07 PM

#48

Savington

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rennkafer

Which is why we use jet nuts as well, the loctite is extra ins. I find it somewhat humorous that you'll trust Gr5 hardware but not loctite.

The hardware quality doesn't bug me - Wilwood uses and sells the same stuff. I don't trust Loctite specifically in any situation that involves heat - I use it in plenty of places, just not in the brakes or the turbo setup. The Resbond probably isn't necessary, but it's a second line of defense should something happen to the safety wire.

Quote:

If you're using through bolts with nuts on the hats/rotors and safety wiring the bolt heads, how will that keep the nuts from loosening?

There are no nuts - the hats are tapped, and the bolts are drilled through the head and wired in four pairs.

Jeff, we don't sell small quantities of Resbond separately.