psreynol

what do you guys think? obviously this is for the track. I want something that is consistent, heat resistant with great modulation. this is a light car so initial bite is less of a concern. basically avoiding flat spotting tires and consistency is my main priority and assume I know how to brake. what is the hot set up?
I've had good luck with padgid, hawk,ferodo. experiences with CL?

y8s

iTrader: (8)

you can start with the E but i know some people changed out for other pads to get more front bite. I believe it was user codrus who has some thoughts on it.

you can also buy other brands of pads for the wilwoods for what it's worth.

I run hawk HPS on the street with my wilwoods for example.

palmtree

iTrader: (4)

Carbotech FTMFW

http://949racing.com/Mazda-Brake-Pads.aspx

beatle

Not sure about the Wilwood E compound, but the BP-10 compound was just awful. I could stop better with my stock brakes. The BP-30 was a decent track pad and was easy to modulate, but the dust was incredibly difficult to remove.

I'm now running Carbotech AX6 in the front. They are way more sensitive than advertised, but I am still running stock brakes in the rear with Axxis Ultimate pads, and I have not installed a prop valve yet.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I've never heard anyone else speak highly of the Wilwood compounds. If you need a dual-duty pad, the Carbotech XPs are great, but they are expensive and very, very touchy about the transfer layer.

We're big fans of Hawk DTC-series pads - they are inexpensive, easy to modulate, and you can pick between the DTC-60 (moderate bite) and the DTC-70 (high bite). I typically recommend the DTC-60 in all cases, and reserve the DTC-70 for the most extreme, high-downforce, high-power cars.

psreynol

It does not need to be dual duty, track only is fine. Ive done it for all my previous track cars, change pads and tires for the track.

carbotech xp, is been a while but that might be a decent choice.

dtc- 70 has a ton of initial bite, I bet it would be pretty easy to lock those suckers up.

psreynol

i'm thinking I might get a set of hawks dtc-60 or perhaps padgid. but I also want to try a set of CL pads because I've heard they are the new hotness. very stable and able to take crazy heat

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I liked the DTC-70s on Theseus, but I wouldn't put them on Rover.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

How's the (cold) wear on the dtc compounds? Do they munch rotors for breakfast when driven on a double duty track car?

falcon

iTrader: (13)

I drove about 5k on DTC 60's before parking the car when I left the country. Didn't see any visible rotor wear.

Todd TCE

You have to learn the right pad for the right application. Regardless of the supplier.

BP10 is a simple performance street pad, akin to Hawk HPS
BP20 has more bite as temps go up, akin to HP+

Poly E pads are a medium friction, light track duty, heavy street duty pad best used for the occasional hard stop more than the dedicated track pad.

Moving on....Poly A,B,C,H (and not listed J and BP30) are dedicated track pads. No, really; track only. Unless you like to replace rotors.

The most common 'beginer' track pad I push is the B compound. Easy on rotors and the wallet. B has a nice ramp up and steady Mu for those folks with performance street tires or mild track rubber. For the more experienced H compound has proven to be one of the best all around race rubber pads. Often favored by many heavier cars; Vette, Mustang, Charger etc and sometimes by it's related Raybestos compound which has a huge following.

Poly A pads. Not much to say here; you want touchy pedal or very aggressive pads; it's hard to top this one. Sell but a few of them for the most hard core of track day user.

I'd also agree with Savington here that some pads can be touchy about transfer and thus pad swaps. Be sure whatever pads you choose to swap in and out are compatible with one another. Performance Friction comes to mind as one of the most aggressive for transfer where when an alternate pad is installed they seem totally useless! Rotor prep with a swap might be a good consideration at times.

Charts and full descriptions.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I like DTC-60 on every car. Pads are about personal preference. I can't stand Carbotech, love the high-torque Hawks.

NotBoostedYet

iTrader: (5)

What about the Hawk HP Plus? I just got my bbk on last week. I'd like to have something for track/street but if I can't I don't mind changing pads at the track.

psreynol

I know people who run hawk hp plus on the rear when they are too lazy to change pads at the track. these people on not on miatas, have ABS and the most aggressive possible pads in the front - like the dtc-70.

if you are not boosted I would just do whatever the spec miata guys do to start with. brakes are not a big issue on those care, you really dont need brakes much if you are doing it right.

psreynol

how much tire you run theseus? if you ever go in a little hot how easy do they lock. from my experience with that pad on other cars my guess would be they lock pretty easy if you go too deep. do you run a proportioning valve? i'[m not going to do that for now


someone mentioned performance friction. great pads for some cars, only set I had came with the turbo 944 and I gave the pads away, way too much bite even with big meat.

do you have the NB radiator in stock? your site seems to indicate that you do and that you do not.

mcarp22

The R4S makes sense as a rear pad, as they are relatively low torque, but it would depend a whole lot on brake bias.

TimM

Do you run ABS? The ABS cars are more rear biased than the non.

I run a depowered ('95) ABS car and find that DTC60 front/DTC30 rear are a good combination for balance with no prop valve mods.

psreynol

i have no abs, no prop valve mods, good-win stage 4 front and rear brake upgrade, wilwood front calipers and relocated rear oem calipers.

TimM

Then you have enough going on that my experience is irrelevent.

Carry On & Good Luck!

crono36

what about DTC-70 in the rear and 60 in the front? would this risk locking up the rears before the fronts even without a prop valve?