Replacing rear wheel studs, is it tough?
#22
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Found the old hub still connected to the upright. It will work. You have to flatten the sheetmetal dust shield right where it has a flange between the brake caliper mounts. Once you do this you can get the stud out at that spot.
Side note - I dont see how the CV housing would get in the way but it might factor in. Mine was a loose hub/upright so I could not confirm with that still attached.
Side note - I dont see how the CV housing would get in the way but it might factor in. Mine was a loose hub/upright so I could not confirm with that still attached.
#24
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The new ARP long studs come pre-notched and they can be installed without replacing the bearing. I didn't think this was possible, but I changed a set on Crusher a few events ago and was surprised to see that it was possible.
#26
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Hammering can bend them. Pulling through with nut can stretch them. That said, I've hammered them in, and pulled them tight with a nut. Never had a problem.
Just take it slow and easy, and it is fine. Do it by hand, no impact wrenches.
Just take it slow and easy, and it is fine. Do it by hand, no impact wrenches.
#28
--Ian
#30
bump
just did this on a 1.6 rear and found the sweet spot...
there are pics posted in this thread which already contain the right spot. didn't see those pics until just now...
dust shield def has to be bent out of place...
the knuckle MAY or MAY NOT need a tiny little notch cut out. but yeah, i was able to get the old ones out and the new ones in without removing the hub.
just did this on a 1.6 rear and found the sweet spot...
there are pics posted in this thread which already contain the right spot. didn't see those pics until just now...
dust shield def has to be bent out of place...
the knuckle MAY or MAY NOT need a tiny little notch cut out. but yeah, i was able to get the old ones out and the new ones in without removing the hub.
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