Review: SADFab Delrin Bushing Kit
#21
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Im starting to notice that welding either shrinks or distorts or both, the sleeve ID. This seems especially true when you full weld it 360 degrees on both ends. Ill see if I can add a lead in on all future sleeves to facilitate starting the bearing straight. Lost deep inside the spherical thread, I offered loaner press tools. These are still available if anyone needs em!
Although others have welded with 0 issues, I still recommenced the retaining compound.
This should be enough for a couple of cars
This should do at least one.
McMaster-Carr
Ive used 638. 640 and 680 should be acceptable as well.
Also, the bearing will, and should tighten up a little when you press it in. It will be difficult to move my hand, but should move when you stick a screwdriver or something with a little leverage through it. They will loosen up a little with use.
Although others have welded with 0 issues, I still recommenced the retaining compound.
This should be enough for a couple of cars
This should do at least one.
McMaster-Carr
Ive used 638. 640 and 680 should be acceptable as well.
Also, the bearing will, and should tighten up a little when you press it in. It will be difficult to move my hand, but should move when you stick a screwdriver or something with a little leverage through it. They will loosen up a little with use.
#23
Aidan, What caused the groove to collapse? My initial efforts were always moderated by thinking about what a disaster it would be if I damaged that groove. That was a blessing as it turned out I was doing it all wrong.
The more I reflect on it, the more convinced I become that Dave's tool, and the chamfering of the bore, made all the difference. The unmolested set went together so smoothly it was as if they had practiced!
Yes postage is a bit of a killer, but small light stuff is ok. Having said that, the practicalities of sending stuff like that back and forth across the Pacific are a bit of a worry. We learn to make do!!
EDIT: Just seen Sean's post. It is possible that one of my sleeves was/is distorted. The other is ok judging by the ease it went together. Mine are 360 welded, both ends. Dave's tool would soak up some heat, if we had had it when the welding was being done, and had thought of using it for that ...
The 'good' sleeve has a loose bearing, just like it was before being installed; the other is as you describe Sean, firm/tight, moveable with a screwdriver.
The more I reflect on it, the more convinced I become that Dave's tool, and the chamfering of the bore, made all the difference. The unmolested set went together so smoothly it was as if they had practiced!
Yes postage is a bit of a killer, but small light stuff is ok. Having said that, the practicalities of sending stuff like that back and forth across the Pacific are a bit of a worry. We learn to make do!!
EDIT: Just seen Sean's post. It is possible that one of my sleeves was/is distorted. The other is ok judging by the ease it went together. Mine are 360 welded, both ends. Dave's tool would soak up some heat, if we had had it when the welding was being done, and had thought of using it for that ...
The 'good' sleeve has a loose bearing, just like it was before being installed; the other is as you describe Sean, firm/tight, moveable with a screwdriver.
Last edited by Gee Emm; 05-02-2016 at 12:19 PM.
#25
Got my bearing in and sleeves are held in with the Loctite sleeve juice.
Though I had to rubber band them from sliding out under gravity. They seem pretty locked in there now but it was a little questionable at first.
Hopefully sometime in June I'll be installing them. I have't had a free weekend for a month+
Though I had to rubber band them from sliding out under gravity. They seem pretty locked in there now but it was a little questionable at first.
Hopefully sometime in June I'll be installing them. I have't had a free weekend for a month+
#26
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Got my bearing in and sleeves are held in with the Loctite sleeve juice.
Though I had to rubber band them from sliding out under gravity. They seem pretty locked in there now but it was a little questionable at first.
Hopefully sometime in June I'll be installing them. I have't had a free weekend for a month+
Though I had to rubber band them from sliding out under gravity. They seem pretty locked in there now but it was a little questionable at first.
Hopefully sometime in June I'll be installing them. I have't had a free weekend for a month+
Ryans tips are great, I suggest they are followed. I can make a heat sink slug/weld spatter guard thing for those that are welding them, just ask.
#37
We are waiting for @thumpetto007 to install them on his NB. As far as I know everyone else that has installed them has done so on a race car.
#38
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Would like to give you feedback, but my miata sees less and less off-track time than ever anymore.
On track they're fantastic through. Drove my car (poly kit) back to back with Aidan's, and the difference was very clear.
On track they're fantastic through. Drove my car (poly kit) back to back with Aidan's, and the difference was very clear.
#40
We are waiting for @thumpetto007 to install them on his NB. As far as I know everyone else that has installed them has done so on a race car.
Transmission finished up today in North Carolina, so it shouldn't be more than 2 weeks from now where I have the first drive. I'll be sure to post my own review thread.
I'll have an additional perspective as well. I have a female (gasp) that has ridden in the miata often, before bushing, trans, and billet top mount installation. She is very sensitive to NVH, and general ride dynamics, as she gets car sick easily. This will help with a more real world opinion.