What to do, shocks...
#21
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http://www.choppersus.com/store/prod...---750-lbs-in/
Wow, well, the price is right, and they have the right spring rate. I'm thinking for the money it's a worthwhile gamble!
Er, anyone have any suggestions where to go for springs? This whole $1400 thing is pretty insane.
Wow, well, the price is right, and they have the right spring rate. I'm thinking for the money it's a worthwhile gamble!
Er, anyone have any suggestions where to go for springs? This whole $1400 thing is pretty insane.
#23
http://www.choppersus.com/store/prod...---750-lbs-in/
Wow, well, the price is right, and they have the right spring rate. I'm thinking for the money it's a worthwhile gamble!
Er, anyone have any suggestions where to go for springs? This whole $1400 thing is pretty insane.
Wow, well, the price is right, and they have the right spring rate. I'm thinking for the money it's a worthwhile gamble!
Er, anyone have any suggestions where to go for springs? This whole $1400 thing is pretty insane.
#24
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Well, for $1275 savings, I bet I could make an extension. Might have to get them revalved....
#26
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Well, one thing comes to mind, perhaps with the bilstiens I won't need the stiff springs I just ordered. :-)
It's hard to imagine needing less than 500 lb/in but I know a lot of folks run it - with all my compression forces coming from the springs I think I need a lot.
I just don't want to go back to the ridiculous teeth shattering AGX/FM spring combo - it didn't stick and it was uncomfortable. The konis never seemed to leave the ground, and the car never bobbed.
It's hard to imagine needing less than 500 lb/in but I know a lot of folks run it - with all my compression forces coming from the springs I think I need a lot.
I just don't want to go back to the ridiculous teeth shattering AGX/FM spring combo - it didn't stick and it was uncomfortable. The konis never seemed to leave the ground, and the car never bobbed.
#28
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I agree on that, if there's one thing the Konis are, it's comfy. They don't do their work on compression, that's pretty obvious. Sure, they have SOME damping, but the majority of the work is on rebound. And that's how the car feels. Hit a bump, the wheel moves out of the way, right then, the car doesn't get unsetteled. Then, the rebound damping takes out a lot of the bounce, so I basically never wobble, It's like the suspension takes the bumps away.
And the sticking is *awesome*.
The issue is the response when I lay into the steering wheel very sharply. What makes the ride nice is the lower compression damping. My feeling is stiff springs will bring back the responsiveness.
The question is what's the line between stiff compression damping which helps with turn in verses stiff compression damping which makes you feel every bump, and transfers a bump in the road into moving the whole car body away from an otherwise smooth tarmac.
And the sticking is *awesome*.
The issue is the response when I lay into the steering wheel very sharply. What makes the ride nice is the lower compression damping. My feeling is stiff springs will bring back the responsiveness.
The question is what's the line between stiff compression damping which helps with turn in verses stiff compression damping which makes you feel every bump, and transfers a bump in the road into moving the whole car body away from an otherwise smooth tarmac.
#29
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Abe, how many miles did you have on your Races before they went out? I've got about 20k on mine.
Last edited by Savington; 08-01-2008 at 05:37 PM.
#30
Abe, my car is responsive as ****, I have wittnesses!!! lol
In transitions, it doesn't even think about weight transfer, by the time i turn the wheel the other way, I am alreaady going that way, absolutely fantastic, was a real blast at the Gap last weekend. Here is proof of the rebound, I got loose maybe 2-3 times total the entire weekend.
Look at the inside tire in this pic, planted!!!
(woohoo, another reason to ***** my deals gap pics out)
Tthese pics are in order, outside fully compressed, inside, firmly planted thanks to the rebound, the car felt great the whole weekend...I need an alignment bad though...no idea what my specs are. Also need to do my bushings and ball joints, all kinds of nioses were coming from under the car...it was a bit scary.
In transitions, it doesn't even think about weight transfer, by the time i turn the wheel the other way, I am alreaady going that way, absolutely fantastic, was a real blast at the Gap last weekend. Here is proof of the rebound, I got loose maybe 2-3 times total the entire weekend.
Look at the inside tire in this pic, planted!!!
(woohoo, another reason to ***** my deals gap pics out)
Tthese pics are in order, outside fully compressed, inside, firmly planted thanks to the rebound, the car felt great the whole weekend...I need an alignment bad though...no idea what my specs are. Also need to do my bushings and ball joints, all kinds of nioses were coming from under the car...it was a bit scary.
#31
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What springs are you running? Sways?
I've got 500/375 (effectively 9/7) with FM bar front and OEM 11mm rear, and just picked up a 750 to make 750/500 for a 13.5/9 kg/mm set up. Maybe the answer is more sways, but I'm... I'm sure I'm worrying too much.
My koni's lasted 20-30, not sure, but not long. $600 every couple years kinda hurts, I have heard the bilstiens hold up longer.
I've got 500/375 (effectively 9/7) with FM bar front and OEM 11mm rear, and just picked up a 750 to make 750/500 for a 13.5/9 kg/mm set up. Maybe the answer is more sways, but I'm... I'm sure I'm worrying too much.
My koni's lasted 20-30, not sure, but not long. $600 every couple years kinda hurts, I have heard the bilstiens hold up longer.
#33
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Oh yeah - the car used to handle awesome, though as I got used to how much it stuck, it began to feel soft. I really like Shaikh's suggestions on sways and finding springs in the right ratios, I'm just unsure about both the cost and the benefit of the bilstiens.
Er, the back shocks:
1) Don't make the squish-squish sound anymore
2) Let the back end of the car go flopping EVERYWHERE
3) Are soaking in oil
The front shock, one has some oil.
And I think they are 3 years old, I don't think it's a lot of miles, but.... If I thought the bilstiens would last me 50k, I would go that route.
Er, the back shocks:
1) Don't make the squish-squish sound anymore
2) Let the back end of the car go flopping EVERYWHERE
3) Are soaking in oil
The front shock, one has some oil.
And I think they are 3 years old, I don't think it's a lot of miles, but.... If I thought the bilstiens would last me 50k, I would go that route.
#35
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That's pretty encouraging. I think unless someone tells me that they get 100k miles out of the bilstiens, I'll just do that. Maybe I'll put the stock susp back on now, ship of the konis
#37
Going back to the orig statement. I have seen Koni race dynos, and they have the same problems as the Koni Sport - the compression valve is too small (fluid displaced is too small), leading to lots of hysteresis, and they're unable to achieve the right amount of compression damping for uberstiff springs. They also have too much low speed damping. I suggest you get a ride in Ian McCloughrie's car. He's got very stiff springs, I believe comparable to yours, FCM valved Bilsteins, and you'll be shocked how smoothly it rides. When a car rides smoothly over bumps, the tires are maintaining good traction over said bumps, due to the suspension design concept of "transmissibility".
#40
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I'd love to give it a shot. However, I just don't see the stiff hit you keep saying I'll get. I've riden around on 500 lb fronts for a long long time, and with the konis the bumps hit less hard than the AGX's on 300 # springs, softer even than stock suspension. They are probably the softest suspension I've ever ridden on that wasn't blown. You said so yourself, there's little compression damping.
From everything you're saying, low speed is what you want (the low speed inputs of turning the wheel and getting body roll) while you don't want high speed damping since that's what hitting a rock/crack is, a very high speed jerk to the system.
This 150k thing, what springs was that on?!?
Also, my springs are FCM rates, and FCM mounts and bump stops, too. More compression damping would likely help with body roll and transitions....
From everything you're saying, low speed is what you want (the low speed inputs of turning the wheel and getting body roll) while you don't want high speed damping since that's what hitting a rock/crack is, a very high speed jerk to the system.
This 150k thing, what springs was that on?!?
Also, my springs are FCM rates, and FCM mounts and bump stops, too. More compression damping would likely help with body roll and transitions....