i removed the nut that holds it, tried using a jaw puller, banging with a hammer while pulling. it wont come off. what am i doing wrong? I removed the entire axle to take it to a shop and have it pressed off, is this the only way these come off? it looks like the teeth are pretty rusted so maybe thats why its not sliding off. shop is closed so i cant go until tomorrow

I had to buy new axles and spindles. I pressed one out and it wouldn't budge, eventually the spindle broke. Fortunately I didn't die from that experience.

I've done four sets. Two sets pushed out easily, the other two pushed out but bent the hubs. All four times I used an impact on a quality puller with hammer whacks in between.

have you tried soaking it in WD40 or some similar rust penetrating lubricant?

I had to use a sledge hammer and mushroom the tips of the axles...then grind them down to slide out, lol. Put them back on with lots of anti-seize.

Follow the torque spec in the manual when installing them. I've seen the wheel/hub/rotor hat come off a car when the doucheface who put it together hit it with a 1/2" impact until it was "TAF" and the axle actually broke on the track, just behind the nut. Wheel bearings on the other side were nonexistent by that point, too.

Air Hammer from harbor freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-imp...kit-32940.html

No way. It takes way more hammer then the HF is capable of.......

A 10 pound sledge and a brass bar between the sledge and the CV to keep from marring the CV

Or a guy from the local forums just did it with the HF air hammer and others have used it too, but what do I know. Yes, use the biggest hammer out there. Why stop at a 10lb? Go all out and get a 50lb sledge!

Must have been removed before. I have a HF air hammer and it works on small things, but never anything real.

I made a fixture that consists of a 1" thick chunk of steel with four holes drilled through at the same location as the wheel studs.

I pop out the studs and put in longer bolts that reach through the plate. Put nuts on the bolts and jack the shaft in after hitting it with liquid wrench. Have never even needed all four bolts. They have all come out with two. When it is under tension, a sharp hit with a 2 lb hammer in the center of the plate helps to get it started.

I wonder how the OP faired on this?

One other thing to consider is the angle of the half-shaft if that is still attached. If you have the car up on stands and the hub is drooping down, you have a decent angle that will actually make it a tad more difficult to get those splines to slide out.

Screw anti-sieze. I just use plain old axle grease like you pack bearings with or CV joint lube. Works great.

That's why you thread the nut back on half way before you bang the **** out of it with the sledge. It's cheaper to replace your nut than your shaft.

Frank

i took off my axle and hub bearing housing to a local body shop. he pressed it out for me, only way this little bastard was gona come out. he first pressed out the axle then the hub, took 5 minutes after we setup the press. thanks for the responses guys. i cleaned the teeth really good with a wire brush and the hub was sliding easily on the axle before i reinstalled so all is good.

I have a hub that won't budge right now. I have the axel/spindle/hub in my vics and have broken 2 3-jaw pullers so far and muchroomed the hell out of the shaft already! What does it take to get it out? The other one came out with just a few jentile taps. I have soaked it with PB Blaster for 3 days now! No help either!

see post #11, above

I really liked that idea. I have a nice chunk of 1" steel sitting at work that I might have to borrow. If I have time today, I might just swing by the my machine shop and see if they can press it out.

when stuck in the same situation, the only thing that helped was heat - i used a propane torch for a bit, came right out with the puller and a hammer to shock it loose.

fwiw, this wasnt on a miata.

Broke another puller yesterday. I am going to have to make that plate and will try some heat as well. This car is driving me nuts right now. Every major bolt seems to be fused in place. I broke two impact sockets trying to get the second PPF bolt out of the diff. Finallt got a 3/4" drive set and then snapped the bolt in half and had to remove the whole diff with the PPF connected! And on top of that none of the exhaust bolts for the rear section would come off, even after soaking in PB blaster for a day, so I had to remove all this crap with the exhaust in the way! I will never buy a car that has been near the coast. It didn't look bad at all when I got it, but now that I start digging deeper it seems like all the exposed carbon steel fastners are stuck.

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91-With MS2ed Rebuilt 1.8, HDHC, Revalved Bilsteins 550/300, Jackson Sways. 97-Fairly stock, HDHC M2 rollbar and AGX shocks.

The car come from the Midwest or something?