Who has broken a 6 speed?
04-30-2010, 08:08 PM
#41
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FWIW i have an ACT HD w/ 6 puck sprung clutch. MT90 in the tranny with less than 4k miles on it (the fluid, aprox 70k on the tranny itself).
Last edited by thesnowboarder; 04-30-2010 at 08:30 PM.
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05-10-2010, 05:03 PM
#42
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ive heard this before, the msm and 01+ trans are the same, they advertise the cryo/shotpeened gears on the msm as a selling feature, if you knew a sport had em, less reason for you to buy a msm, i guess.
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05-18-2010, 07:12 PM
#49
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cl mystery 6spd ('99) for 800, but that may not be an upgrade
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05-18-2010, 07:20 PM
#50
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fwiw, quaife gearset (5spd) for $1876
http://www.autotech.com/quaife/news.htm
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05-21-2010, 08:27 AM
#51
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random crap generator just produced:
fwiw, quaife gearset (5spd) for $1876
http://www.autotech.com/quaife/news.htm
fwiw, quaife gearset (5spd) for $1876
http://www.autotech.com/quaife/news.htm
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05-25-2010, 12:02 PM
#52
Quck question for you guys that might know. I'm going to build a 1.8 to drop in my 91 but the syncro in 3rd in my 1.6 is iffy. Can I put a 6 speed in my 1.6 without modification and then put it on the 1.8 when I'm done with the build? Or will it require some modification to go on the 1.6 that will inable me to put on the 1.8 when I'm ready?
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05-25-2010, 01:05 PM
#53
short answer: yes
a 5-speed from a '94 will bolt right into a '90, and a 6-speed from an '04 will bolt right into a '94.
By that logic, a 6-speed from an '04 will bolt right into a '90. You will use your 1.6 driveshaft, and speed sensor assembly. You will cut the wiring connectors from one of your 5-speed tranny sensors and solder them onto the associated 6-speed tranny sensor. (remove the single black plastic connector on the 6-speed to solder on the 2 bullet connectors from the 5-speed) The 2 white plastic connectors are unchanged from '90 - 2004.
a 5-speed from a '94 will bolt right into a '90, and a 6-speed from an '04 will bolt right into a '94.
By that logic, a 6-speed from an '04 will bolt right into a '90. You will use your 1.6 driveshaft, and speed sensor assembly. You will cut the wiring connectors from one of your 5-speed tranny sensors and solder them onto the associated 6-speed tranny sensor. (remove the single black plastic connector on the 6-speed to solder on the 2 bullet connectors from the 5-speed) The 2 white plastic connectors are unchanged from '90 - 2004.
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05-25-2010, 01:26 PM
#54
short answer: yes
a 5-speed from a '94 will bolt right into a '90, and a 6-speed from an '04 will bolt right into a '94.
By that logic, a 6-speed from an '04 will bolt right into a '90. You will use your 1.6 driveshaft, and speed sensor assembly. You will cut the wiring connectors from one of your 5-speed tranny sensors and solder them onto the associated 6-speed tranny sensor. (remove the single black plastic connector on the 6-speed to solder on the 2 bullet connectors from the 5-speed) The 2 white plastic connectors are unchanged from '90 - 2004.
a 5-speed from a '94 will bolt right into a '90, and a 6-speed from an '04 will bolt right into a '94.
By that logic, a 6-speed from an '04 will bolt right into a '90. You will use your 1.6 driveshaft, and speed sensor assembly. You will cut the wiring connectors from one of your 5-speed tranny sensors and solder them onto the associated 6-speed tranny sensor. (remove the single black plastic connector on the 6-speed to solder on the 2 bullet connectors from the 5-speed) The 2 white plastic connectors are unchanged from '90 - 2004.
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05-25-2010, 04:20 PM
#55
Some claim that the MSM transmission was made stronger with shot-peened gears
There are no unique, identifying part numbers/diagrams/etc. that would act as proof that there are 2 seperate types of gears for the MSM vs. Non-MSM transmissions.
A common thought is that all 6-speed gears are shot-peened, the MSM's just used it as a selling point.
You could use wire crimps as the circuit is not a potentiometer; but rather, it is a simple open/closed circuit. Perfect continuity is not paramount in the application. For the love of god, don't use wire nuts.
A solder joint will not short out if it gets wet, assuming you've properly insulated the wiring, which you would do anyways if you crimped it. After you have completed the wiring, regardless of crimp, solder, or nut, you will always insulate the wire. The best way is with heat shrink tubing, electrical taped at the ends. The most common way (and not necessarily a bad way) is simply to electrical tape both joints seperately, and then e-tape them together.
With regard to your MSM rear end. You will require the MSM axles to finish the install, as the MSM rear end will not mate up with N/A axles. If you do not have the MSM axles, do not attempt to install the MSM rear end. Any NA/NB transmission will mate up with any NA/NB rear end, driveshafts must match the rear end (1.6 rear end uses a longer driveshaft)
There are no unique, identifying part numbers/diagrams/etc. that would act as proof that there are 2 seperate types of gears for the MSM vs. Non-MSM transmissions.
A common thought is that all 6-speed gears are shot-peened, the MSM's just used it as a selling point.
You could use wire crimps as the circuit is not a potentiometer; but rather, it is a simple open/closed circuit. Perfect continuity is not paramount in the application. For the love of god, don't use wire nuts.
A solder joint will not short out if it gets wet, assuming you've properly insulated the wiring, which you would do anyways if you crimped it. After you have completed the wiring, regardless of crimp, solder, or nut, you will always insulate the wire. The best way is with heat shrink tubing, electrical taped at the ends. The most common way (and not necessarily a bad way) is simply to electrical tape both joints seperately, and then e-tape them together.
With regard to your MSM rear end. You will require the MSM axles to finish the install, as the MSM rear end will not mate up with N/A axles. If you do not have the MSM axles, do not attempt to install the MSM rear end. Any NA/NB transmission will mate up with any NA/NB rear end, driveshafts must match the rear end (1.6 rear end uses a longer driveshaft)
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05-25-2010, 04:54 PM
#56
With regard to your MSM rear end. You will require the MSM axles to finish the install, as the MSM rear end will not mate up with N/A axles. If you do not have the MSM axles, do not attempt to install the MSM rear end. Any NA/NB transmission will mate up with any NA/NB rear end, driveshafts must match the rear end (1.6 rear end uses a longer driveshaft)
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05-26-2010, 08:20 AM
#59
You are correct. I am not arguing with you.
Go back a third time, and re-read my post again and again...until you understand, without question...I'll even quote it for you so you dont have to waste time scrolling up:
Here's a cheat sheet.
The driveshaft will work. The axles will not.
Go back a third time, and re-read my post again and again...until you understand, without question...I'll even quote it for you so you dont have to waste time scrolling up:
Some claim that the MSM transmission was made stronger with shot-peened gears
There are no unique, identifying part numbers/diagrams/etc. that would act as proof that there are 2 seperate types of gears for the MSM vs. Non-MSM transmissions.
A common thought is that all 6-speed gears are shot-peened, the MSM's just used it as a selling point.
You could use wire crimps as the circuit is not a potentiometer; but rather, it is a simple open/closed circuit. Perfect continuity is not paramount in the application. For the love of god, don't use wire nuts.
A solder joint will not short out if it gets wet, assuming you've properly insulated the wiring, which you would do anyways if you crimped it. After you have completed the wiring, regardless of crimp, solder, or nut, you will always insulate the wire. The best way is with heat shrink tubing, electrical taped at the ends. The most common way (and not necessarily a bad way) is simply to electrical tape both joints seperately, and then e-tape them together.
With regard to your MSM rear end. You will require the MSM axles to finish the install, as the MSM rear end will not mate up with N/A axles. If you do not have the MSM axles, do not attempt to install the MSM rear end. Any NA/NB transmission will mate up with any NA/NB rear end, driveshafts must match the rear end (1.6 rear end uses a longer driveshaft)
There are no unique, identifying part numbers/diagrams/etc. that would act as proof that there are 2 seperate types of gears for the MSM vs. Non-MSM transmissions.
A common thought is that all 6-speed gears are shot-peened, the MSM's just used it as a selling point.
You could use wire crimps as the circuit is not a potentiometer; but rather, it is a simple open/closed circuit. Perfect continuity is not paramount in the application. For the love of god, don't use wire nuts.
A solder joint will not short out if it gets wet, assuming you've properly insulated the wiring, which you would do anyways if you crimped it. After you have completed the wiring, regardless of crimp, solder, or nut, you will always insulate the wire. The best way is with heat shrink tubing, electrical taped at the ends. The most common way (and not necessarily a bad way) is simply to electrical tape both joints seperately, and then e-tape them together.
With regard to your MSM rear end. You will require the MSM axles to finish the install, as the MSM rear end will not mate up with N/A axles. If you do not have the MSM axles, do not attempt to install the MSM rear end. Any NA/NB transmission will mate up with any NA/NB rear end, driveshafts must match the rear end (1.6 rear end uses a longer driveshaft)
Here's a cheat sheet.
The driveshaft will work. The axles will not.
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